Tank stand question

[MrMikeB]

To all you master woodworkers out there, is it possible to attach wooden skirts and doors to a metal epoxy coated stand? I am eyeballing a new large tank setup (8'x3'x2' tall) that is on a nice welded metal stand. I swear, this is the last one... for the house anyway. Aesthetically, epoxy coated stands in the front room will not get you on an episode of Cribs anytime soon... so what should I do?

The seller has wooden doors made for the stand (not finished), but I really am inept at woodworking (although I sometimes pretend to know what I am doing). How would I attach these doors/skirts after they get stained?

 

[mpoletti]

There is always carpenter glue. Not the elmers, but construction adhesive. I know that I have used it in the past to glue drywall to cinderblock. That stuff is pretty amazing.

 

[Reefugee]

Will constructive adhesive adhere to a smooth epoxy surface? If you want to use constructive adhesive, I would rough up the epoxy surface with some sand paper first. Don't sand down to the metal surface, otherwise you may get some rust on the metal. Personally - I would use some sort of mechanical fastener in addition to the constructive adhesive.

Just a couple of thoughts on how you can attach everything.

1. Lets assume you have a face frame that the door attach to. You can attach the face frame to the metal stand buy using screws. Just drill a hole with a counter since bit. Then drill the screw into the face frame. I would put silicone (or waterproof caulking) where the screw is going to create a water tight area. Then plug up the hole with some hole plugs. I personally would use a contrasting color plug to create a decorative look. Assuming your face frame is oak - I'd would use purple heart for a nice contrast.

2. Another option is to actually attached the face frame to each other. Then at the corner, use some wood to create a brace that wraps around the metal frame. Screw the wood brace to the frame on the inside. Then cover the hole with some silicone to prevent the screw from rusting.

3. Depending on the size and weight of the face frame and door, you can always consider using some strong rare earth magnet to attach the face frame to the metal frame. Just find a bunch of magnet. Sink the magnet into the wood face frame. Attach the magnet to the wood using some sort of adhesive. The magnet will allow the face frame to attach to the metal frame. One advantage here is that you can always take of the face frame for full access.

There are other ways you can do it. If there were more pictures, we might be able to suggest other ways of doing it. If you need help, I'd wouldn't mind coming over and helping. I just can't do it until I am finish with my own house projects that are incomplete (finishing the wood floor, finish the electrical subpanel in my garage, drywall the garage, and build my woodshop).

Minh

 

[MrMikeB]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10318707#post10318707 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Reefugee
I just can't do it until I am finish with my own house projects that are incomplete (finishing the wood floor, finish the electrical subpanel in my garage, drywall the garage, and build my woodshop).

Whoaaa! That Honey-do list ought to keep you busy for the next year or 2?

Thank you for the tips!

 

[miracles38]

Can you use magnets? I always thought that it would be nice to have a metal stand that you could take all the doors and stuff off and get into it. BTW Mike, if you don't want that tank let me know. That is my dream tank.

 

[P.Kelly]

Take a look at the TOTM from last month.

 

[ned2getfish]

ductape and gum lol

 

[bored4long]

Do you have access to a welder? I would recommend welding metal brackets to the frame and attaching all your wood facing to that. The metal brackets can be spray painted to match the rest of the frame.

Eventually, a bracket is required to make the transition from metal to wood. Granted I'm comparing apples to oranges, but that is how I've built fences using metal poles.

 

[MrMikeB]

Good advice all! Thank you... If the deal goes through I will catalog the transformation.

 

[rafael13]

just make a face that slides into place and if it needs you can use velcro to secure it to the frame

 

[Jim_S]

Yeah, I was going to say velcro too.

I've seen it used before.

Jim

 

[dots]

predrill both the metal and wood, or use threaded inserts to remove them later on.

Screw the suckers on and if there is room, countersink them and plug them.

 

[MrMikeB]

I just found out the tank has black acrylic bottom and back. I have heard of doing the back, but never the bottom. I have never ran bare bottom before, but I would think a white bottom or something that reflected light upwards would seem more logical?

Any thoughts on what to do with a black bottom?

 

[Doahh]

Starboard it... HDPE they should have it at Tap

 

[Reefugee]

I will be covered with Coralline eventually. My concern right now is that the black would absorb the light and produce heat. Maybe a problem during this summer, but probably won't make a difference in the future..

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10325359#post10325359 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by MrMikeB
I just found out the tank has black acrylic bottom and back. I have heard of doing the back, but never the bottom. I have never ran bare bottom before, but I would think a white bottom or something that reflected light upwards would seem more logical?

Any thoughts on what to do with a black bottom?

 

[jtarmitage]

Check out how sidewinder attached his skins. It is about 1/2 way down the page.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=522988&perpage=25&pagenumber=22

 

[dots]

Double

 

[dots]

With the distance to the light, dissapation of heat with water.....it could increase it theoretically but we would be talking a .01 or .001 of a degree and don't think it would be an issue unless we were trying to create an adiabatic sealed system, but regardless, this would be difficult with the level of equipment we use to verify this or not.......but before thinking of that, I would consider greater sources of heat such as pumps as I recently mentioned with my skimmer. But if this is a concern to you, simply offset this minor amount by the same method you lower your water temp, with a fan from the other side and "pull" the heat back out. But because any heat that could be pulled out from the lights would be pulled out already by the water.......ie path of least resistance.

I painted the bottom of my tank black after my sump started growing corraline. Get an tuxedo urchin or two and it will keep the corraline trimmed. If it gets to thick, it flakes off and is just as bad as the sand.

I am perfectly happy with mine and have no Starboard. Stack you rocks with flow and accessibility in mind, then epoxy and pin them.......no worries about falling rocks what so ever for me this way.

Barebottom is cool, but add a remote DSB as a buffer for the nutrients to keep you colors stable and from going crazy.

 

[Larry Robison]

Mike,

I have a metal stand I made, and I attached the door skins with magnetic latches and acrylic "s"es I made on the bottom. Looks super, and I can send you some pics of how it goes together if you like. The nice thing about the bottom parts is that the skins can be left on, but tilted to about 35 - 45 degrees for short term acces, or removed in about 2 seconds if need be. It takes longer to reattach . . . about 4 seconds.

Larz

 

[dots]

Go to your reef and look at how John has his on his big tank, it is the best way I have seen to add removeable panels for easy access. Considering yours is steel already and your panels are not used for shear strength, I would consider this option to be the best.