Tanks size and PH Fluctuations in your Gigantea Carpet Tank?
- Thread starter DP Reef
- Start date
I kept mine in a 29 gallon for five years under MH. It grew to fill the footprint of the tank and ate everything but the pair of breeding true Percs. I gave it and the percs to a friend with a 55 gallon and it pretty much filled up 2/3 of the footprint of that tank. She still has it years later.
I am a religious water changer but don't dose or test. Just weekly 25% water changes. My anemone was a happy pig in my care. Well lit, well fed and surrounded by wonderful water movement.
I am a religious water changer but don't dose or test. Just weekly 25% water changes. My anemone was a happy pig in my care. Well lit, well fed and surrounded by wonderful water movement.
D-Nak
Active member
I have a purple gig in my 120. My pH fluctuates between 8.0-8.4. The ideal pH for gigs is 8.3. However, it's more important to provide them constant parameter rather than trying to chase a number. IMO a range of +/- .5 is fine.
I also have a green gig in a 10 gallon tank. It was supposed to be temporary but is now going on 2 months and it's fine. It shares the tank with two dozen baby clowns. Water parameters are far from perfect. While I don't advocate this, it just goes to show that gigs are very hardy once they are acclimated and healthy.
Keep in mind that gigs live in tidal areas where they are exposed to lots of sunlight, even partially if not fully exposed to the air during the day. They also have to deal with typical life in a tidepool -- constantly changing, turbid water where salinity can vary throughout the day.
Those of us who have gigantea for a long time know that they are almost bullet-proof. Owner error -- such as a kalkwasser overdose -- are the main causes of the death of a gig that's been in a tank more long than 6 months.
The key when acquiring a specimen is finding one that hasn't suffered much shipping stress and responds to antibiotic treatment.
I also have a green gig in a 10 gallon tank. It was supposed to be temporary but is now going on 2 months and it's fine. It shares the tank with two dozen baby clowns. Water parameters are far from perfect. While I don't advocate this, it just goes to show that gigs are very hardy once they are acclimated and healthy.
Keep in mind that gigs live in tidal areas where they are exposed to lots of sunlight, even partially if not fully exposed to the air during the day. They also have to deal with typical life in a tidepool -- constantly changing, turbid water where salinity can vary throughout the day.
Those of us who have gigantea for a long time know that they are almost bullet-proof. Owner error -- such as a kalkwasser overdose -- are the main causes of the death of a gig that's been in a tank more long than 6 months.
The key when acquiring a specimen is finding one that hasn't suffered much shipping stress and responds to antibiotic treatment.
Thanks all. That gives me comfort that my PH is around 8.25-8.4 over the course of weeks. In a given day, it is within +-.5.
The LFS was hesitant to sell me a gig as his belief is they are difficult to survive in anything smaller than a 120g and that I should wait until I have a bigger tank.
I would like to think that 1/3 the footprint of my 50 gallon (maybe 35 gallons of water) w/ 20gallons of water in the sump would be enough to keep things stable.
The LFS was hesitant to sell me a gig as his belief is they are difficult to survive in anything smaller than a 120g and that I should wait until I have a bigger tank.
I would like to think that 1/3 the footprint of my 50 gallon (maybe 35 gallons of water) w/ 20gallons of water in the sump would be enough to keep things stable.
Do a search on here for OrionN and his posts regarding Ciproflaxin treatment for anemones and start reading. I know that's what I've been doing.
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