The Gapper 400GPD Light Commercial RO from Buckeye Hydro

[Buckeye Hydro]

I'd check the screen in the strainer every six months, and a week after installing new carbon blocks. You can change that schedule based upon what you see.
Russ

 

[jason2459]

Will do.


This system just gets better and better. The TAP water temp is close to 60F now. I didn't get a chance to check production and waste water rates yet but the rejection rate is ridiculous. lol

325 TDS tap

2 TDS after RO before DI!

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

99.4% rejection. Gotta love it!

 

[homer1475]

I have those same TDS meters Jason2459, put a piece of black tape(electrical tape) over the lights, it helps immensely.

That is one serious RO/DI unit!!

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

What's the issue with the meter lights?

 

[homer1475]

They are so bright it makes the screen hard to read unless it is directly lit.

Think I might just take mine apart and snip the wire to it, or if its an LED soldered to the board, unsolder it. lol

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

Ah-ha. Interesting. I'll check on that and get with the HM Digital guys.

Russ

 

[homer1475]

yeah its a common issue with those meters. Everyone I know that has them, or has posted on here and other forums about them, all complain about the lights.

IMO, the buttons should be backlit for which sensor your using.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

First I've heard of it in almost 20 years! Good feedback

 

[homer1475]

Its not bad if your in good lighting, but most RO/DI units are tucked away in a closet with little light and it makes them a PITA to read.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

Roger that

 

[jason2459]

Great meter horrible blue led. Why I have them covered in several layers of painters tape.

 

[EagleFF]

great looking setup Jason, I am wondering how this system would work on my well water?
post DI is 49 to 55 TDS post RO is roughly 170x10 per TDS meters, im burning DI resin like firewood

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

Eagle - No DI resin is going to last worth a darn if you're feeding it 1700 ppm water. But if your RO is producing 1700 ppm water then there is a problem with the RO portion of the system. Undoubtedly your feedwater TDS is super high, but still - something is wrong with your RO. If you'd like help troubleshooting it feel free to give us a call when you are in front of the system.

Russ
513-312-2343

 

[jason2459]

great looking setup Jason, I am wondering how this system would work on my well water?
post DI is 49 to 55 TDS post RO is roughly 170x10 per TDS meters, im burning DI resin like firewood

Something sounds wrong and your DI sounds like it's instantly shot. A couple issues with well water is typically low pressure and high CO2 levels. The CO2 levels is very hard on DI. But that post RO TDS is that 170 or 170 times 10? Either way is very high. How old is the RO membrane?

How old is the carbon stages and how many and what kind? I assume you add chlorine or something to the well? That could burn through the carbon and kill the membrane. I would do a chlorine test post RO.

 

[EagleFF]

Something sounds wrong and your DI sounds like it's instantly shot. A couple issues with well water is typically low pressure and high CO2 levels. The CO2 levels is very hard on DI. But that post RO TDS is that 170 or 170 times 10? Either way is very high. How old is the RO membrane?

How old is the carbon stages and how many and what kind? I assume you add chlorine or something to the well? That could burn through the carbon and kill the membrane. I would do a chlorine test post RO.

Pre RO is 1700, Pre DI is 45 to 70, I was scramble brain when posting this, I went to clean and replace my RO filters, I found I have installed the filters in upside down, I dont know what went on with that one, work work work is all I can say lol, I am getting mixed readings on Pre DI post RO from 100 to 65, I do believe my 2 membranes are toast, will order some more this friday, if I cannot get my TDS down lower, I am going to replace RO unit.
I have not tested for CO2, I do have a booster pump on the unit, its a Aqualife PurFlo 150 GPD.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

With 1700 ppm feedwater, this must be well water, correct?

Have you had the well water tested? With water this bad, testing is really a "must do." In the water treatment biz, we can deal with almost any water, once we know what the contaminants are, and their concentration. Drinking Water Test

Do you have any treatment equipment in place - like a softener?

You mentioned having two RO membranes. Are they plumbed in series (waste from first feeding the second)? If so, that's not a good configuration given your feedwater.

Super high feedwater TDS requires higher pressure - at least 1 psi boost for each 100 ppm.

What brand of membranes are you using?

What is your waste water to purified water ratio? Give us a call if you're not clear how to measure that - it's quick and easy.

If your RO water is 65, and your feed is 1700, that's a 96% rejection rate - pretty good all things considered. If you remove the second membrane (assuming it is plumbed in series) your RO water TDS will go down.

Was it your DI that was installed upside down?

Russ

 

[Ron Reefman]

Hey Jason (and Russ), I don't normally look at or read RO/DI threads here at RC. But I saw that Russ at Buckeye Hydro was replying to your thread, so I took a look. Russ helped me a lot by having RO membranes and replacement end caps for my Cirqua HP800 system. He also got me the manual for it so I know how it all works. I got it used for $200 from another reefer and I knew nothing about it.

I just put new filters and membranes in that I bought some time ago (8 to 10 months ago) and it's making very close to 30gph or 700gpd at zero tds with a small DI filter. My RO/DI water goes to a 45g tank and I save my reject water in a cistern and use it to do laundry.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

This is one step larger than The Gapper - it has a motor and pump typical of commercial RO's of about 4000 gpd and less. These are one of the major components that makes the price of commercial RO's higher. But if you can land one for $200, that's a beautiful thing!

Ron - You're using one or two 20" x 2.5" carbon block(s) - can't recall how much we re-configured your system) - be careful to change these on an appropriately short schedule - remember they are treating all the waste water too.

Russ

 

[robbous]

Like what i am reading on this Gapper. having a 500 Gallon display tank ( 650 total gallons) i go though alot of RO water for both salt mix ( i do 10% water changes every 5 days) and ATO. my current RO system takes days to fill up a 300 gallon salt mixing container. i make look into something like this to cut my water making time way down.