The "Hitchhiker's Guide" to the Maxi-Stream mod
- Thread starter dhnguyen
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mines around 6" it could be shorter though. I set my props closer to the body than I will next time. but even so, it works and I could probably cut an inch off the front end. and thats with 2 props.
next time Ill keep it aroun 6" total, but Ill make the ridgid tubing an inch longer and push those props out, hopefully allow more slots behind to pull water in, and less slots in front that might disrupt the flow.
next time Ill keep it aroun 6" total, but Ill make the ridgid tubing an inch longer and push those props out, hopefully allow more slots behind to pull water in, and less slots in front that might disrupt the flow.
Critter
Premium Member
Thanks... Yeah, the groove where it connects was the most nerve racking.. didn't want to go through. If you like those slots you'd love what I used to measure them.. lol I didn't have a felxable measuring tape, so I made one out of paper. 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6411820#post6411820 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dhnguyen
I must say Critter. For a hand job (Hey get your mind out of the gutter), you did really well cutting those slots and the groove in the PVC. Very clean looking.
Try not to break the MJ pump in the process though
j/k
D.
well 2nd times the charm for me.
made the white tube 4" long, and I set the props about 3" out.
if I had to guestimate Id say 150-200% of the flow vs the first one I made. I mean you can see its "stream" of flow from little bits floating around that you couldnt see from the first try I made. pushing the prop out definitely helped.
this time I just drilled a 1/8" hole through a peice of ridged airline tubing, and that was my cross brace. way easier than the acrylic brace, and more aerodynamic as well. same as the first time it rights itself without any sort of stopper. but its much easier and cleaner looking IMO with a little rod through it about a quarter inch from the end vs the bar. and all I needed was the drill that I used on the props. easier to center it for me as well IMO. measure and drill was better than bothering with cutting notches and super glueing.
all in all I didnt use a drop of superglue anywhere on it, the props arent moving anywhere, and neither is the crossbrace(the ridged tube seems to be a touch over 3/16th's, or my drill is a touch under)
made the white tube 4" long, and I set the props about 3" out.
if I had to guestimate Id say 150-200% of the flow vs the first one I made. I mean you can see its "stream" of flow from little bits floating around that you couldnt see from the first try I made. pushing the prop out definitely helped.
this time I just drilled a 1/8" hole through a peice of ridged airline tubing, and that was my cross brace. way easier than the acrylic brace, and more aerodynamic as well. same as the first time it rights itself without any sort of stopper. but its much easier and cleaner looking IMO with a little rod through it about a quarter inch from the end vs the bar. and all I needed was the drill that I used on the props. easier to center it for me as well IMO. measure and drill was better than bothering with cutting notches and super glueing.
all in all I didnt use a drop of superglue anywhere on it, the props arent moving anywhere, and neither is the crossbrace(the ridged tube seems to be a touch over 3/16th's, or my drill is a touch under)
dr.darkness
New member
areze could you post pics to show how you did it with out glue.
unfortunatly not, my camera got a bent pin in the CF slot. *DOH* so no camera. the prop is just a squeeze fit onto the ridgid tubing, glueing seemed unnescessary. the airline is a sqeeze fit onto the magnet and the ridgid tubing, and the cross bar is just through a drilled hole in the PVC which has the same tight fit as the props. I actually had to grab the ridgid tube with a pair of pliers to get it through the PVC pipe.
areze. You meant like using the rigid airline tubing for a cross brace like this?
I did that on my very first attempt of this mod. But over time I think the stress will wear out the tube. Mine never broke or anything but I did notice some wear from where the hole was drilled.
D.
petco had it for me, it was hidden though, had to ask.
and yes thats how I did mine. I might rework it, cause right now the shaft is spinning, which it really shouldnt need to. not sure why or how it is infact. its a tight fit into the end cap which should be a tight fit into the back of the maxijet.
Ill have to investigate this. If the shaft didnt spin should be no problem.
and yes thats how I did mine. I might rework it, cause right now the shaft is spinning, which it really shouldnt need to. not sure why or how it is infact. its a tight fit into the end cap which should be a tight fit into the back of the maxijet.
Ill have to investigate this. If the shaft didnt spin should be no problem.
pretty critical. if your off you throw off the whole thing, magnet or propellor might scrape, ect. its not absolute precision, but it should be as close as physicly possible, not a hole whereever.
also, look down the pipe after you make it, for me anyway, my pipe will move around and still be locked in, if you center the brace and hole to the pipe, it only matters if you center the pipe on the powerhead.
also, look down the pipe after you make it, for me anyway, my pipe will move around and still be locked in, if you center the brace and hole to the pipe, it only matters if you center the pipe on the powerhead.
GSerg2
New member
For anyone wanting to do this, I highly recommend that you spend the extra couple bucks for the Hobbico Nitro Hammer Propeller part number LXCTD0.
I just replaced my Dumas props with these and OMG! It puts out at least half again as much as before. If it was doing approx 1100gph before, I bet it is doing 1500-1600gph now. It is approaching the flow out of my Tunze 6080.
I just replaced my Dumas props with these and OMG! It puts out at least half again as much as before. If it was doing approx 1100gph before, I bet it is doing 1500-1600gph now. It is approaching the flow out of my Tunze 6080.
DKreefkeepers
New member
Ok, sorry to drag this thread up again but I am amazed at these things. I am a fairly good DIY'er but I have a question about how you made the groove in this pic... I read your instructions but I am still not clear on how you made it. the groove looks perfect like a machine did it. please share.
I used a 7" fine toothed blade on a 10" miter saw to make the groove. At the highest height setting, the 7" miter saw balde will come down just enough to cut exactly halfway through the 1.5" PVC pipe. Carefully rotate the pipe around as I cut will give a perfect groove.
You CAN though use a Dremel and hand cut the grroove as well, assuming that you have very steady hands
You CAN though use a Dremel and hand cut the grroove as well, assuming that you have very steady hands
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