The "Hitchhiker's Guide" to the Maxi-Stream mod

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dhnguyen

In Memoriam
As promised. Here is a step by step guide to how to do this with lots of photos. I highly recommend doing the "MJ400 mod v. 1.0" version for those without access to power tools and are less skilled in DIYness :)

The materials needed are:

1. 1.25" plastic propellers (Towerhobby.com)

2. 0.098" OD carbon fiber rod (Towerhobby.com)

3. 1.5" PVC pipe or 1.5" PVC slip bushing depending on what version you want (Home Depot, Lowes, etc...)

4. 1.5" PVC test cap to be used for the "v.1.0" version using the 1.5" PVC slip bushing (Home Depot, Lowes, etc...)

5. Thick CA (cyano arcylate) glue (towerhobby.com)

6. 1/8" thick acrylic (scrap pieces)

7. Rigid airline tubing (LFS)

8. Flexible airline tubing (LFS)

Now onto the photos....
 
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fantastic!!!
Thank you for doing this. Could you tell me about how much distance there is between your prop stop and the propellor?

Thanks,
-J
 
Center brace. See how I rounded off the sharp edges of the stopper using a rotary tool's cuttoff/grinder wheel. This will prevent any damage to the plastic propeller blades when the prop hits the stopper. You can purchase a very good rotary tool (kind like the Dremel) at Harbor's Freight Tools for like $10 and change.

This is the exact one I bought and used.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=41695

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Cutting out the groove
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MJ mod mount
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Surface agitation
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MJ900 mod w/fancy slots :lol:
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Be very careful doing the next 2 steps.

Cutting the groove. For this I am using a 10" miter saw with a 7" fine toothed blade. At the highest height setting, the miter saw will come down just enough to cut into the 1.5" PVC pipe halfway through the plastic, making it ideal for cutting the groove. For those of you who chose to use the PVC test caps instead, you can skip this.

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Cutting the slots
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Impeller 1
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Impeller 2
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Impeller 3
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Double propeller aseembly. Note the flexible airline tubing just slips onto the rigid tubing (section in red) and glued inplace with CA glue. The propellers are drilled out a bit so that the (1/8" OD?) rigid airline tubing will fit through.
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Assembling the prop and impeller
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Completed prop/impeller mod.
Note: see how the 2 propellers are placed in such a way that they form a screw like curve. This will generate A LOT more flow than using just one propeller.
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Now onto the MJ400 mods

MJ400 V. 1.0 using 1.5" PVC slip bushing and 1.5" PVC test cap
(recommended if you don't have access to power tools). The PVC test cap is used as the base adn will fit perfectly over the MJ pump.
59639v-1_0.jpg



MJ400 mod v. 2.0
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The measuring and marking may seem tedious at first but will save you a ton of headache later on when drilling. In additon to, it makes for cleaner drilling as well.

Measure and mark 1
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Measure and mark 2
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Onto drilling...
Note how every hole is measured and marked before hand and drilled out with a small bit first. This will allow you to drill with a larger bit later without slipping.

Drilling 1
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Drilling 2
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Drilling 3
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Drilling 4
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Completed drillng
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Again measure and mark the center of the brace so that you can be assured that the rod will be perfectly centered.

Glue the brace onto the PVC housing
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Measure and mark the center of the brace
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Drilling the brace 1
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Drilling the brace 2
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Completed MJ400 mod
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Assembled
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3 inches exactly from the base. You CAN make it smaller though if you're using just one propeller instead of the 2 I used for the double prop.
 
dhnguyen said:

You can also use this propeller by Hobbico which has a slightly better pitch than the Dumas props and should provide a bit better flow.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCTD0&P=0
 
Did you use the double propeller on a 400? If so, does it have any problems spinning them? I had to cut a single prop down because the 400 couldnt push it.
 
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