The "Hitchhiker's Guide" to the Maxi-Stream mod

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well you do want to allow some room for the impeller to move back and forth as it wil do this very rapidly upon startup to right itself. Also the one inch tolerance is not neccessarily exact either. One inch from the cross brace to the prop but also factor in the stopper underneath the cross brace which would hit the prop long before it actually comes in contact with the cross brace itself. So in actuality it's more like 3/4 inch.

But I do suppose that you can leave a smaller tolerance if you want to. It's just easier to measure, follow, and duplicate 1 inch than say 5/16 inch :lol:
 
Great thread! Thanks for compiling everything.

FWIW, I have a section of sch 80 1.5" PVC (gray). The ID of the schd 80 pipe is approx .005" too small to fit over the maxi-jet body. I am using MJ 1200's for measurements, yours may vary.

I figure a flapper wheel will eat up that dimension pretty quick. The schd 80 pipe color almost matches the MJ perfectly. I'm going to give it a try.

Scott
 
You could take a Dremel and bore it out a little to make it fit the MJ body. Wouldn't be too hard to grind down 0.005" on one end
 
Even better than a dremel:

Flapper wheel

This should make it easier to keep the ID round since it should only require a quick sanding. Making the pipe out of round could lead to centering issues with the impeller. In my mind, at least. :D

Question though: Is there any particular reason why you put the bearing from the MJ on the end of the carbon fiber rod? It seems to me that you could cut the rod flush with the end and make it more aesthetically pleasing. Am I missing something?

Thanks,
Scott
 
No reason really. I actually kinda like the look of the bearing on the outside of the cross brace like that. And I have this thing about not having any small extra parts after assembly :lol:
Something about a loose small rubber bearing lying around kinda gnaws at me I guess :lol:

Used to work on motorcyles and that "Uh oh where did this come from..." after I completed rebuilding an engine gets to me big time
 
Good work! Thank you for doing this.
Could you tell me how much flow have this maxjet 900 after modifications? How do you make to measure?
 
That part I don't know just yet. Haven't tried measuring to get an estimated flow rate yet. Melev suggested using a thin plastic bag connected to the output and time how long it takes to fill it then measure what's in the bag.

I would assuming just by the look anf general feel of things, the flow is improved at least 3 times if not much more compared to a stock MJ pump.


D.
 
How did you do the "mod mount" so that the ph sits horizontally? Did you glue the small beveled piece to the top of the ph?
 
Back to the grey pipe for a minute, most home improvement stores carry grey pvc pipe used for electrical conduit. Its cheaper than schedule 80. I think you'll find it much easier. Also, when used for plumbing, they have lots of fittings available in odd angles which sometimes come in particularly handy. Check it out
 
For the MJ900 version...was a test cap used for the mount to the MJ900 or did you cut that groove our yourself? If so, do you have any info or photos on how to do that? Nice job BTW!

Thanks
billpa
 
Nope no PVC test cap on the MJ900 mod shown on page 1.

Also there I posted how to do the groove

Cutting the groove. For this I am using a 10" miter saw with a 7" fine toothed blade. At the highest height setting, the miter saw will come down just enough to cut into the 1.5" PVC pipe halfway through the plastic, making it ideal for cutting the groove. For those of you who chose to use the PVC test caps instead, you can skip this.

You can probably do it with a Dremel cutoff wheel too or even a hack saw if you don't have access to power tools.
 
okay cool...but you could use the test cap instead...correct? Only reason why I ask is because you only used the teset cap on the 400. I dont think the models vary in size but wanted to make sure.

Thanks!
Bill
 
Also.... Note on page 1, I showed 2 versions of the MJ400 mod.

One with then groove cut in and one using a test cap.

The thing with the test cap is that it fits into the 1.5" PVC pipe perfectly and so if you want to use the test cap you need to use a PVC bushing for the housing or follow BullDZR's design here

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=611354

See how he cut out the sides of the pipe to allow the test cap to fit onto the MJ body?
 
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