The inwall 380 starfire reborn
- Thread starter Sparkss
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Sorry about that Matt, I had missed your post when it rolled to the next page
. Sure, once everything is finished a tank tour would be in order. But that is sitll quite some ways off. Once we get this one up and running and ready to accept livestock then our existing tank will need to be taken down and that wall patched (all of it's equipment is in the garage, so all of the pipes, etc, go through the wall). So lots of clean up and more painting (*oh joy* ). But after all that is said and done, It would be great to have you up. BTW, it was nice to have finally met you and your wife at the frag swap up in Elk Grove. It makes it better when I can put a face to the voice on the other end of the phone
xinumaster
reef addict
Don't be sad steve, u can always grade to a much bigger tank.
blufre3
Yup, no frame yet, but since the wallbaord itself is acting as the frame, and only the border left to install, we won't be able to adopt your design idea. It sounds like a really effective design though, wish we could have used it. Thanks
Jim
Thanks, you will eventually see your clam in there, once it all gets set up
Update :
Electrical all trimmed out and I swapped the existing equipment over to the new outlets/circuits.
The RO/DI unit is doing all that it can... with the sand and what not the water level is about abut 6", so it will definitely be well into next week before it finishes filling
The salt mix should arrive on Wednesday, according to FedEx tracking.
The box track for the lighting should arrive on Thursday, according to UPS tracking.
Since the salt will be arriving next Wednesday, I am going to go ahead and order at least 2 of the Vortecs (probably just bite the bullet and get all four now versus later). I am also up against a wall on the LAIIIs and will need to order those by the first of next week at the latest to get them here around the same time as the box track. I only hope the other person working on a deal either contacts me before then, or has not put out any $$, since it looks like I will be ordering my own.
I should have the shipment of base rock in less then 2 weeks from now, so the aquascaping will be able to commence
Lessons Learned :
Well, learned alot of things NOT to do, and a few that should be done. One thing I will definitely saw, especially with in wall tank setups, is to oversize the stand. Our wall is far from square and the stand was spec'ed to only 1/8" overall more than the tank footprint. At the time it seemed fine, in retrospect we should have gone to at least 1/4", more so to 1/2", so account for things not being 100% square and true. Aside from the battle with the foam, one section of one side/corner of the tank is a little too close to the edge for my tastes, but aside from redoing hte entire setup (new wooden top, etc) and all of the challenges that would go along with that, I will just swallow my "bad taste". The tank is supported, but I just prefer more of a "buffer" all of the way around, just my personal preference. So that was one lesson learned (for the next time, if there will be one *sigh*).
Plans :
While I will be reusing the majority of our equipment (most all of it was oversized with a mind towards a larger tank one day). There will still be some changes made. One of those will involve the skimmer. I am giving serious consideration towards have the tank drain direct feed the skimmer (goodness knows there are enough threads on the many ways to accomplish this ). The other has to do with the prop tank. I am thinking of taking it down, at least for now, so that I can focus 100% of my attention on getting the new tank up and running optimally. Not to mention that the new tank + our existing tank livestock won't even put a dent in the new tank, and part of the reason for the prop was "livestock overflow", which won't be an issue. This will also allow us to simplify the equipment setup, which will help minimize any startup "pains" (hopefully).
I know I am going to be blasted for this, but here are my plans for the lighting : 2 250w 10K XM SE bulbs running on HQI PFO ballasts. This combination has some of the highest PPFD in Sanjay's database. They will be running in LAIII reflectors, more or less evenly spaced out over the top of the tank. From front to back, straddling and splitting the 2 LAIIIs will be 3 T5s in IC reflectors and running from side to side both in front and behind these lights (LAIIIs and T5s) will be 1 T5 each (2 total). I already have the 660 ballasts, so that is not an issue. I am leaning towards the AquaBlue + bulbs for all 5. I am basing this on the results of running the same MH combo on our prop tank in an LA Mini, and seeing the spread and output intensity. From my reading the avg usable spread on an LA reflector is 30", the tank is 78", avg usable spread on a T5 is 4", this comes out to 72" from side to side and 38" from front to back. The viewable area from side to side is basically 71" (because I boxed in the sides and bottom with the wallboard *see pictures of the stand before the tank went onto it*). Our plan is also to have the sides and back be a little darker to help give the appearance of depth (similar to Oregon Reefs lighting strategy). I may end up adding another T5 to run parallel with the front of the tank, if we need more front to back coverage. Since the front area will be open sand, less light is needed, and it will also give us an area for lower light LPS/Zoas/Etc.
Then again if that ends up being too little, we can always add another reflector over top of the tank, so I am not too concerned with trying it out with less versus more. (always easier to buy more rather than trying to sell off excess).
Ok, log post, hope I didn't lose anyone. Comments, suggestions, observations, are all welcomed
Yup, no frame yet, but since the wallbaord itself is acting as the frame, and only the border left to install, we won't be able to adopt your design idea. It sounds like a really effective design though, wish we could have used it. Thanks
Jim
Thanks, you will eventually see your clam in there, once it all gets set up
Update :
Electrical all trimmed out and I swapped the existing equipment over to the new outlets/circuits.
The RO/DI unit is doing all that it can... with the sand and what not the water level is about abut 6", so it will definitely be well into next week before it finishes filling
The salt mix should arrive on Wednesday, according to FedEx tracking.
The box track for the lighting should arrive on Thursday, according to UPS tracking.
Since the salt will be arriving next Wednesday, I am going to go ahead and order at least 2 of the Vortecs (probably just bite the bullet and get all four now versus later). I am also up against a wall on the LAIIIs and will need to order those by the first of next week at the latest to get them here around the same time as the box track. I only hope the other person working on a deal either contacts me before then, or has not put out any $$, since it looks like I will be ordering my own.
I should have the shipment of base rock in less then 2 weeks from now, so the aquascaping will be able to commence
Lessons Learned :
Well, learned alot of things NOT to do, and a few that should be done. One thing I will definitely saw, especially with in wall tank setups, is to oversize the stand. Our wall is far from square and the stand was spec'ed to only 1/8" overall more than the tank footprint. At the time it seemed fine, in retrospect we should have gone to at least 1/4", more so to 1/2", so account for things not being 100% square and true. Aside from the battle with the foam, one section of one side/corner of the tank is a little too close to the edge for my tastes, but aside from redoing hte entire setup (new wooden top, etc) and all of the challenges that would go along with that, I will just swallow my "bad taste". The tank is supported, but I just prefer more of a "buffer" all of the way around, just my personal preference. So that was one lesson learned (for the next time, if there will be one *sigh*).
Plans :
While I will be reusing the majority of our equipment (most all of it was oversized with a mind towards a larger tank one day
). There will still be some changes made. One of those will involve the skimmer. I am giving serious consideration towards have the tank drain direct feed the skimmer (goodness knows there are enough threads on the many ways to accomplish this ). The other has to do with the prop tank. I am thinking of taking it down, at least for now, so that I can focus 100% of my attention on getting the new tank up and running optimally. Not to mention that the new tank + our existing tank livestock won't even put a dent in the new tank, and part of the reason for the prop was "livestock overflow", which won't be an issue. This will also allow us to simplify the equipment setup, which will help minimize any startup "pains" (hopefully).I know I am going to be blasted for this, but here are my plans for the lighting : 2 250w 10K XM SE bulbs running on HQI PFO ballasts. This combination has some of the highest PPFD in Sanjay's database. They will be running in LAIII reflectors, more or less evenly spaced out over the top of the tank. From front to back, straddling and splitting the 2 LAIIIs will be 3 T5s in IC reflectors and running from side to side both in front and behind these lights (LAIIIs and T5s) will be 1 T5 each (2 total). I already have the 660 ballasts, so that is not an issue. I am leaning towards the AquaBlue + bulbs for all 5. I am basing this on the results of running the same MH combo on our prop tank in an LA Mini, and seeing the spread and output intensity. From my reading the avg usable spread on an LA reflector is 30", the tank is 78", avg usable spread on a T5 is 4", this comes out to 72" from side to side and 38" from front to back. The viewable area from side to side is basically 71" (because I boxed in the sides and bottom with the wallboard *see pictures of the stand before the tank went onto it*). Our plan is also to have the sides and back be a little darker to help give the appearance of depth (similar to Oregon Reefs lighting strategy). I may end up adding another T5 to run parallel with the front of the tank, if we need more front to back coverage. Since the front area will be open sand, less light is needed, and it will also give us an area for lower light LPS/Zoas/Etc.
Then again if that ends up being too little, we can always add another reflector over top of the tank, so I am not too concerned with trying it out with less versus more. (always easier to buy more rather than trying to sell off excess
).Ok, log post, hope I didn't lose anyone
. Comments, suggestions, observations, are all welcomed I will do a search later on and post the link to his new tank thread (I know it is around here somewhere ). Right now I am off to PGS to pick up our LA IIIs . Would have been cheaper to let them ship them, but I have the day off (from heavy tank work) and it would be nice to visit their facility. After I get back I will start on the lighting frame in preparation for the box track to arrive next week.
). Right now I am off to PGS to pick up our LA IIIs . Would have been cheaper to let them ship them, but I have the day off (from heavy tank work) and it would be nice to visit their facility. After I get back I will start on the lighting frame in preparation for the box track to arrive next week.Ok, I decided to go ahead and dig out his new thread before I took off :
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=940428
Cheers... hopefully there will be more updates soon. I ordered the Vortecs, ballasts, lights, and other odds and ends from MD last night, so it should all be here by Tuesday, and as I mentioned I am picking up the LA IIIs from those great folks out at PGS today. So With everything arriving the middle of next week I sincerely hope to have the tank running by next weekend. I am going to spend this weekend finishing up the plumbing, mesh top and anything else that I need to finalize, in preparation for everything else arriving next week. The "biggest" piece next week will be putting up the box track (which would have been alot easier if it had arrived before the tank went in *sigh*).
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=940428
Cheers... hopefully there will be more updates soon
. I ordered the Vortecs, ballasts, lights, and other odds and ends from MD last night, so it should all be here by Tuesday, and as I mentioned I am picking up the LA IIIs from those great folks out at PGS today. So With everything arriving the middle of next week I sincerely hope to have the tank running by next weekend. I am going to spend this weekend finishing up the plumbing, mesh top and anything else that I need to finalize, in preparation for everything else arriving next week. The "biggest" piece next week will be putting up the box track (which would have been alot easier if it had arrived before the tank went in *sigh*).
xinumaster
reef addict
How many LA3 do you plan to install? Sorry if I ask too much I'm just stealing some ideas from you. Hopefully, my tank will be ready for delivery on the 22nd.
hawaiianwargod
Active member
Tom,
Amazing project!!! Very well plan. How much would be the admission for the upcoming grand tour? lol. Btw, who made the tank? Looks awesome!
Keep up the good work and project like such gives me the inspiration to continue this "sweet and Sour" hobby of ours!!!
Amazing project!!! Very well plan. How much would be the admission for the upcoming grand tour? lol. Btw, who made the tank? Looks awesome!
Keep up the good work and project like such gives me the inspiration to continue this "sweet and Sour" hobby of ours!!!
strittmatter
New member
love the thread so far. What is the mesh top you have referenced a couple of times?
Perry
Just got back from PGS with 2 LA IIIs, based on several other tanks and some research I am down to 2 lumenarcs running 250W XM 10K on PFO HQI ballasts. Basically Sanjay is setting up a tank that is very similar in footprint, in fact I think that his is a little longer, and he is running 3 400W bulbs in LA IIIs, with the reflectors right next to each other, side by side, in the center of his tank. This was because if he spaced them out he had too much light spilling out hte sides of the tank, being wasted. He took PAR readings at numerous points in his tank and just about everywhere had plenty of light. I checked the PPFD rating on his web site for the 400W bulbs that he used and compared them. The XM 10K on a PFO HQI has a 15% higher rating than the 400s he was using and the XM still has a decent CCT (just barely under 10k, go figure, a bulb that has an actual kelvin that matches what it is sold as.. must be a fluke). We have the same combo running over our prop tank and like the color (of the 250W XM, etc). I took that data and postulated that if he had the reflectors side by side then the outside 2 were essentially 20" from each other (the width of the middle relfector), and an LAIII can easily bridge that, with a little fall off in the very center, but owing to his other readings and data on his site, that still shouldn't be an issue. So I decided to go with just 2 (I know, call me crazy ). Plus, I also scored a light mover today at PGS. As I was walking in someone was just dropping off a couple of used ones for sale, so I was able to get a smokin deal from PGS on a set . I plan to now use that from front to back, so the original plan to use T5s to supplement the light is now out the window, but we will still be supplementing actinic, but now I am leaning towards URI VHO for that purpose. This is for several reasons, the main one being that the URI's require alot less to get up and running than the T5s do (no reflector, more easily found end caps, etc). Plus the actual setup into the lighting rack would be easier with the VHOs, and it would also set the stage for moving to T6s if/when they became mainstream (they use the same sockets, etc).
Hope that answers your questions.. I should have the lighting up and running by next weekend (Jan 7, give or take) so you would be able to see how on or off base I am with my assertions, either way I am trying for the most efficient tank to operate (eletrically speaking), the chiller, recirculation, return pump and skimmer are already there.. heating and lighting are my next big targets
hawaiianwargod
Thanks for the compliment, alot of planning did go into it, then again we have had many months of staring at the tank sitting in our garage within which to plan it all out. But until you actually start on such a project, it is hard to see all of the little "gotchas" that will come up, like not knowing what is hiding behind the sheetrock on a wall until you pull that skin off.
The tank was originally made by Miracles in Glass and we bought it used from Bigred down in Los Banos earlier this year
strittmatter
There is a thread in the DIY forum for a Clear Mesh Top that is basically regular DIY screen frame from (found at any HD or Lowes) with clear mesh used instead the dark screen material that they sell. There are a couple of different options for the mesh, with several vendors listed in that thread to get it from, the main thing being that it is UV resistant and the other factor being mesh size. The typical used I think is 1/2", which is about the size of egg crate I think. We are going with 1/4" since some smaller dart fish have been known to make it through even egg crating over tanks. The main advantage to the clear mesh is that it doesn't impact lighting getting through to the tank, like egg crate and other methods can. I will try to dig out the thread URL for you a little later. Right now a late lunch beckons
Just got back from PGS with 2 LA IIIs, based on several other tanks and some research I am down to 2 lumenarcs running 250W XM 10K on PFO HQI ballasts. Basically Sanjay is setting up a tank that is very similar in footprint, in fact I think that his is a little longer, and he is running 3 400W bulbs in LA IIIs, with the reflectors right next to each other, side by side, in the center of his tank. This was because if he spaced them out he had too much light spilling out hte sides of the tank, being wasted. He took PAR readings at numerous points in his tank and just about everywhere had plenty of light. I checked the PPFD rating on his web site for the 400W bulbs that he used and compared them. The XM 10K on a PFO HQI has a 15% higher rating than the 400s he was using and the XM still has a decent CCT (just barely under 10k, go figure, a bulb that has an actual kelvin that matches what it is sold as.. must be a fluke
). We have the same combo running over our prop tank and like the color (of the 250W XM, etc). I took that data and postulated that if he had the reflectors side by side then the outside 2 were essentially 20" from each other (the width of the middle relfector), and an LAIII can easily bridge that, with a little fall off in the very center, but owing to his other readings and data on his site, that still shouldn't be an issue. So I decided to go with just 2 (I know, call me crazy ). Plus, I also scored a light mover today at PGS. As I was walking in someone was just dropping off a couple of used ones for sale, so I was able to get a smokin deal from PGS on a set . I plan to now use that from front to back, so the original plan to use T5s to supplement the light is now out the window, but we will still be supplementing actinic, but now I am leaning towards URI VHO for that purpose. This is for several reasons, the main one being that the URI's require alot less to get up and running than the T5s do (no reflector, more easily found end caps, etc). Plus the actual setup into the lighting rack would be easier with the VHOs, and it would also set the stage for moving to T6s if/when they became mainstream (they use the same sockets, etc).Hope that answers your questions.. I should have the lighting up and running by next weekend (Jan 7, give or take) so you would be able to see how on or off base I am with my assertions, either way I am trying for the most efficient tank to operate (eletrically speaking), the chiller, recirculation, return pump and skimmer are already there.. heating and lighting are my next big targets
hawaiianwargod
Thanks for the compliment, alot of planning did go into it, then again we have had many months of staring at the tank sitting in our garage within which to plan it all out
. But until you actually start on such a project, it is hard to see all of the little "gotchas" that will come up, like not knowing what is hiding behind the sheetrock on a wall until you pull that skin off. The tank was originally made by Miracles in Glass and we bought it used from Bigred down in Los Banos earlier this year
strittmatter
There is a thread in the DIY forum for a Clear Mesh Top that is basically regular DIY screen frame from (found at any HD or Lowes) with clear mesh used instead the dark screen material that they sell. There are a couple of different options for the mesh, with several vendors listed in that thread to get it from, the main thing being that it is UV resistant and the other factor being mesh size. The typical used I think is 1/2", which is about the size of egg crate I think. We are going with 1/4" since some smaller dart fish have been known to make it through even egg crating over tanks
. The main advantage to the clear mesh is that it doesn't impact lighting getting through to the tank, like egg crate and other methods can. I will try to dig out the thread URL for you a little later. Right now a late lunch beckons 
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