The Reef Central Corner Club Thread
- Thread starter Michael
- Start date
nomorenames
New member
Mine is a mix of south down and Fiji black so that might have somthing to do with it.
reefscape15
New member
Michael - Are you going to get rid of those LED strips or are you keeping them? Looking to maybe waste a little money!
Michael, with that much flow how do you keep everything from being turned into soup? I have 1 Koralia #5on the back of a 75gallon pentagon shape (yep, I am corner tank guy) that bounces off of the front panel and 2- #2 Koralias on the long sides. I've got enough flow to suit most soft corals and the acros I have seem to like it as well. You can mod the Koralias by changing out the stock screw type impeller to a modified propeller to maximize flow rates.
By the way, we would be glad to send Liverpool David Beckham in a trade. This season with LA, I think he is more excites about all the modeling gigs he got signed up for than playing soccer. Eventhough my wife says she wouldn't mind seeing David's bum in "tightie whities" on billboards around town, I would rather think not.
By the way, we would be glad to send Liverpool David Beckham in a trade. This season with LA, I think he is more excites about all the modeling gigs he got signed up for than playing soccer. Eventhough my wife says she wouldn't mind seeing David's bum in "tightie whities" on billboards around town, I would rather think not.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15706171#post15706171 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by reefscape15
Michael - Are you going to get rid of those LED strips or are you keeping them? Looking to maybe waste a little money!
ive already sold them to other reefers jim
my gonioporo was being blasted admittedly, ive moved 1 ph and hes ok now, otherwise the flow isnt too distruptive, believe it or not, it seems a lot at 50x, but nothing seems to be bothered by it.
we'd never except becham at liverpool, he used to be a man u player, he'd never be allowed on the pitch
reefscape15
New member
Bummer Michael! Those LED strips are SWEET!
boret
Premium Member
Hello guys!!! A week gone on a business trip and there is already quite a bit to catch up!!!
Michael I like the blog and will try to help. The ToC is a must to get info organized.
I love the idea to ask the mods to change the name of the thread to better represent and help ID its content to RC users, without excluding any non corner users as it kind of does now.
I like a lot of Hookup's ideas but I think that we should try to focus on the corner tanks and stay away from general new to reefing info. All the tidbits of useful information will still percolate from the blog, and much of that information will be invaluable to newbie but we need to focus on the corner tanks, otherwise we might make it a huge repository of data, not very user friendly. (It is just my opinion )
gerryo I have an older 3/4" SCWD spliting the return into my frag tank with eductors at each end. As far as flow I get plenty with the eductors, and I am probably running 400-500 gph, but the SCWD just doesn't work properly. It is an older unit, that can't be taken apart, and even though I soaked it in vinegar for over a week I still think it has some buildup that clogs the internals because it gets stuck in one output without switching. I need to tap it with a hammer to get it to switch, it does so for a couple of cycles and gets stuck again. Great idea... fairly short lifespan... maybe poor design. I won't use it again. However, the new ones might be better... there are a couple of systems out there, like the wav valve that I might try.
A lot of you use several powerheads inside the tank to produce decent and random flow.... do you dislike the Close Loop idea??
You can have a Close Loop with some PVC pipes and without drilling a single hole in the glass (I still prefer to drill but it is doable without drilling). I understand that it is easier to keep adding powerheads, you don't have to remove anything from inside the tank to place them but... they add heat to the system, the more you add the less natural look out of the tank, and you just have a lot of parts to fail and to maintain adding to the chores. At some point I would love to talk about how nice is to have the close loop and it is really not that difficult to setup. Mine cost about $100-120 including external pump, loc-line adapters, pvc and drill bit.
Michael I don't know if you are aware but there is a mod for the Tunzes that makes the 9025s as powerful as the 9045s and it is not that difficult to make. All you do is dremel some plastic off the front plastic piece. You can find the thread HERE. If it does that to the 9025 I can't imagine the flow increase you might get out of modding the 9045!!! You are supposed to increase from 660 gph to 1200+gph.
I have done it in my tunzes and I can tell that there is a very noticeable increase in flow, but I don't have the tools to measure if it is indeed 1200+.
Also, one little piece of advice (little trick many of you might know already), if you have trouble finding info on RC, you can try this simple trick: add "site:reefcentral.com" to all of your searches in google and it will match results from RC only.
Michael I like the blog and will try to help. The ToC is a must to get info organized.
I love the idea to ask the mods to change the name of the thread to better represent and help ID its content to RC users, without excluding any non corner users as it kind of does now.
I like a lot of Hookup's ideas but I think that we should try to focus on the corner tanks and stay away from general new to reefing info. All the tidbits of useful information will still percolate from the blog, and much of that information will be invaluable to newbie but we need to focus on the corner tanks, otherwise we might make it a huge repository of data, not very user friendly. (It is just my opinion )gerryo I have an older 3/4" SCWD spliting the return into my frag tank with eductors at each end. As far as flow I get plenty with the eductors, and I am probably running 400-500 gph, but the SCWD just doesn't work properly. It is an older unit, that can't be taken apart, and even though I soaked it in vinegar for over a week I still think it has some buildup that clogs the internals because it gets stuck in one output without switching. I need to tap it with a hammer to get it to switch, it does so for a couple of cycles and gets stuck again. Great idea... fairly short lifespan... maybe poor design. I won't use it again. However, the new ones might be better... there are a couple of systems out there, like the wav valve that I might try.
A lot of you use several powerheads inside the tank to produce decent and random flow.... do you dislike the Close Loop idea??
You can have a Close Loop with some PVC pipes and without drilling a single hole in the glass (I still prefer to drill but it is doable without drilling). I understand that it is easier to keep adding powerheads, you don't have to remove anything from inside the tank to place them but... they add heat to the system, the more you add the less natural look out of the tank, and you just have a lot of parts to fail and to maintain adding to the chores. At some point I would love to talk about how nice is to have the close loop and it is really not that difficult to setup. Mine cost about $100-120 including external pump, loc-line adapters, pvc and drill bit.
Michael I don't know if you are aware but there is a mod for the Tunzes that makes the 9025s as powerful as the 9045s and it is not that difficult to make. All you do is dremel some plastic off the front plastic piece. You can find the thread HERE. If it does that to the 9025 I can't imagine the flow increase you might get out of modding the 9045!!! You are supposed to increase from 660 gph to 1200+gph.
I have done it in my tunzes and I can tell that there is a very noticeable increase in flow, but I don't have the tools to measure if it is indeed 1200+.
Also, one little piece of advice (little trick many of you might know already), if you have trouble finding info on RC, you can try this simple trick: add "site:reefcentral.com" to all of your searches in google and it will match results from RC only.
gawf4fun
Member
+1 on closed loop. Absolutely one of the best decisions I made when setting up my 180. Also, as luck would have it, something I would change now if I could do it all over....
As I was a relative newbie at the time, it was suggested that a single outlet and a single inlet would be satisfacory for the 3000 gph flow as the return angled 30 degrees at the front of the acrylic. This was enhanced further by my sump return which comes through a 1" Sea Swirl, providing added variability, as the paths crossed. This originally worked great for flow dispersion and turbulence.
However as the corals grew and additional rock was added, the full tank coverage of the flow was interrupted, requiring me to add more flow behind the rock towers. Thankfully, EcoTech Marine introduced the Vortech MP40 pumps, which I have now acquired for high flow and low heat addition to the rear of my rock towers.
Were I given the rebuild opportunity, I would still use the closed loop, but I would definately drill additional returns through the base and rear walls of the tank for better overall dispersion of the flow, regardless of rock and coral location and growth.
As I was a relative newbie at the time, it was suggested that a single outlet and a single inlet would be satisfacory for the 3000 gph flow as the return angled 30 degrees at the front of the acrylic. This was enhanced further by my sump return which comes through a 1" Sea Swirl, providing added variability, as the paths crossed. This originally worked great for flow dispersion and turbulence.
However as the corals grew and additional rock was added, the full tank coverage of the flow was interrupted, requiring me to add more flow behind the rock towers. Thankfully, EcoTech Marine introduced the Vortech MP40 pumps, which I have now acquired for high flow and low heat addition to the rear of my rock towers.
Were I given the rebuild opportunity, I would still use the closed loop, but I would definately drill additional returns through the base and rear walls of the tank for better overall dispersion of the flow, regardless of rock and coral location and growth.
reefscape15
New member
I also agree with the closed loop system, but as gawf mentioned, "were I given the rebuild opportunity. Believe me, the next tank that I set up is going to be drilled all over!!!! I'm going to go with the swiss cheese approach
boret
Premium Member
This was my approach to Close Loop:
I am very pleased with its performance. The final iteration had a split on the output on the left wall, so it pushes water behind the rocks in the corner.
This is what it looked like when I firsts set it up:
I drilled the intake for the Close Loop on the right. If I was doing it again I would drill two intakes instead of one.
But if you don't want to drill the glass you can take the water with another pipe going in about half way down in the corner.
I am extremely pleased with the performance. I should have added a couple more outputs though, but I was concerned about adding too many elbows in the PVC limiting the flow. Hasn't been the case. I use a Little Giant 4 with an Ocean Motions 4. (1-2-3-4)
I am very pleased with its performance. The final iteration had a split on the output on the left wall, so it pushes water behind the rocks in the corner.
This is what it looked like when I firsts set it up:
I drilled the intake for the Close Loop on the right. If I was doing it again I would drill two intakes instead of one.
But if you don't want to drill the glass you can take the water with another pipe going in about half way down in the corner.
I am extremely pleased with the performance. I should have added a couple more outputs though, but I was concerned about adding too many elbows in the PVC limiting the flow. Hasn't been the case. I use a Little Giant 4 with an Ocean Motions 4. (1-2-3-4)
gawf4fun
Member
Yes Boret, I recall seeing your unique design either in this thread or elsewhere and was, and still am, very impressed.
Limiting the number of bulkheads is for me, a big priority. I've been woken up two times too many by the sound of dripping water over the course of the last 3+ years.
Limiting the number of bulkheads is for me, a big priority. I've been woken up two times too many by the sound of dripping water over the course of the last 3+ years.
nomorenames
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15709470#post15709470 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by boret
Hello guys!!! A week gone on a business trip and there is already quite a bit to catch up!!!
Michael I like the blog and will try to help. The ToC is a must to get info organized.
I love the idea to ask the mods to change the name of the thread to better represent and help ID its content to RC users, without excluding any non corner users as it kind of does now.
gerryo I have an older 3/4" SCWD spliting the return into my frag tank with eductors at each end. As far as flow I get plenty with the eductors, and I am probably running 400-500 gph, but the SCWD just doesn't work properly. It is an older unit, that can't be taken apart, and even though I soaked it in vinegar for over a week I still think it has some buildup that clogs the internals because it gets stuck in one output without switching. I need to tap it with a hammer to get it to switch, it does so for a couple of cycles and gets stuck again. Great idea... fairly short lifespan... maybe poor design. I won't use it again. However, the new ones might be better... there are a couple of systems out there, like the wav valve that I might try.
A lot of you use several powerheads inside the tank to produce decent and random flow.... do you dislike the Close Loop idea??
You can have a Close Loop with some PVC pipes and without drilling a single hole in the glass (I still prefer to drill but it is doable without drilling). I understand that it is easier to keep adding powerheads, you don't have to remove anything from inside the tank to place them but... they add heat to the system, the more you add the less natural look out of the tank, and you just have a lot of parts to fail and to maintain adding to the chores. At some point I would love to talk about how nice is to have the close loop and it is really not that difficult to setup. Mine cost about $100-120 including external pump, loc-line adapters, pvc and drill bit.
Michael I don't know if you are aware but there is a mod for the Tunzes that makes the 9025s as powerful as the 9045s and it is not that difficult to make. All you do is dremel some plastic off the front plastic piece. You can find the thread HERE. If it does that to the 9025 I can't imagine the flow increase you might get out of modding the 9045!!! You are supposed to increase from 660 gph to 1200+gph.
I have done it in my tunzes and I can tell that there is a very noticeable increase in flow, but I don't have the tools to measure if it is indeed 1200+.
Also, one little piece of advice (little trick many of you might know already), if you have trouble finding info on RC, you can try this simple trick: add "site:reefcentral.com" to all of your searches in google and it will match results from RC only.
did you just tee off the 4 outlets from the pump? nice job BTW
nomorenames
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15712618#post15712618 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by boret
This was my approach to Close Loop:
I am very pleased with its performance. The final iteration had a split on the output on the left wall, so it pushes water behind the rocks in the corner.
This is what it looked like when I firsts set it up:
I drilled the intake for the Close Loop on the right. If I was doing it again I would drill two intakes instead of one.
But if you don't want to drill the glass you can take the water with another pipe going in about half way down in the corner.
I am extremely pleased with the performance. I should have added a couple more outputs though, but I was concerned about adding too many elbows in the PVC limiting the flow. Hasn't been the case. I use a Little Giant 4 with an Ocean Motions 4. (1-2-3-4)
sorry i meant this:rollface:
boret
Premium Member
I use a Ocean Motions Squirt, that takes 1 input and switches with a motor into 4 outputs. So only one of those PVC that you see in the picture actually is throwing water at a given time.
I looked for a better pic, but this is the best I could find. Here you can see the pump on the floor (Little Giant 4), being feed with a 1" flex PVC pipe, 3/4" PVC going up into a device (the OM Squirt) and 4 outlets that go into the tank, with 3/4" flexpvc into the pipes that you see in the other picture.
I added an old computer CPU heat sink on top of the OM Squirt to keep it cool, as it felt fairly worm to the touch, I applied heat conductive paste and attached it in place with plastic ties.
I looked for a better pic, but this is the best I could find. Here you can see the pump on the floor (Little Giant 4), being feed with a 1" flex PVC pipe, 3/4" PVC going up into a device (the OM Squirt) and 4 outlets that go into the tank, with 3/4" flexpvc into the pipes that you see in the other picture.
I added an old computer CPU heat sink on top of the OM Squirt to keep it cool, as it felt fairly worm to the touch, I applied heat conductive paste and attached it in place with plastic ties.
