ThE StArT Of My 120 BB sPs TaNk

I got that one, its for drinking water not for reefs you might wantto check the tds readings on the output :o, but i returned it for that reason. :|
 
I have the same unit but it required 3 modifications.

1. I replaced the 125 GPD membrane with a 75 GPD membrane

2. I took off the last stage(its just to add drinking water taste)

3. I removed the filter from the second stage and replaced it with a carbon block


And my TDS is 0 :D
 
this is what the add states.
WATER FILTERS is our professional items!
We do our best to provide the best quality every item !!

We Ship From USA directly!

Buy It Now is Just US$69.99 and 2-7 days* you will GET IT at HOME within US!!

125 G/Day 6 stage Reef Reverse Osmosis + Clear De-Ionized

Drinking & Aquarium Water Filter System

(Retail Price:US$559+$89)

+ Free Bonus 5 x Spare Replacement Filters


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4435990501
 
id like to know what your water quality looks like after you use that ebay filter, i need a new one so im looking.....let me know how it works out for you
 
I'm telling you that thing is gonna need some mods or it wont work right for aquarium use. I ran it like it came for a few months and i was getting overexessive algae growth. after I tried a few mods much better. No algae, 0 phosphate or nitrates, and my tanks just looked alot better overall. With the amount of money your gonna be spending you might as well spend $50 or $60 to mod that unit.
 
An Ro unit, is an RO unit, is an RO unit, is an RO unit...... Its pretty simple.. As long as it has the proper stages, its the same as the next one. Sorry to hijack your thread, I'll shut up about it now....



Back in topic ;) This is going to be one rockin' project. I have been pondering a cube with almost the same dimensions for some time now, and after seeing this thread, I'm kinda motivated now :) Yours is going along well.



Matt
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6668550#post6668550 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tangwang
An Ro unit, is an RO unit, is an RO unit, is an RO unit...... Its pretty simple.. As long as it has the proper stages, its the same as the next one. Sorry to hijack your thread, I'll shut up about it now.... Matt

This is absolutely untrue. All RO units are NOT equal and you typically get what you pay for. The better TFC membranes have a rejection ratio of 98% and better. The cheaper units, such as the one pictured previously with the "125 GPD" membrane, typically have less than a 90% rejection ratio. This may not sound significant, but it is when discussing reef aquariums and the elimination phosphates, silicates and nitrates from the make-up water. Additionally, a better RO membrane will extend the life of the DI resin cartridges that follow it and will pay for itself over time.

Furthermore, not all DI resins are created equal. Their effectiveness can vary dramatically. The better DI resin cartridges, such as those sold by Spectrapure, are designed to remove weakly ionized compounds such as phosphates and silicates. I'd be very surprised if the DI cartridge pictured in this thread were any good or lasted for any length of time. Also, DI cartridges should be used in tandem for maximum effectiveness and longevity.

Now I'll shut up. :)

Greg
 
Hey Greg Whatââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s new always good to here from you. When ya going to let me borrow that centropyge angle?
Thanks for all the feed back on the R/O unit everyone. I will try and make the modifications to it soon. But I have other things to worry about right now. I have installed the light fixture and the electric is complete now. But this skimmer has got to be the hardest thing to plumb.
Also does the gasket go to the dry side or the wet side for the overflow stand pipe?
Greg how do you like the mod to the overflow box so far? I hope it will let more water pass than before the modification.
42064mini-gasket.JPG

here is the overflow mod before and after.


42064mini-overflowbefor.JPG

42064mini-overflowcut.JPG

Now if I can find that gutter screen I should be ok.

Here is my light fixture 250watt 13k megachrome SE on an icecap electronic ballast with 2 /75watt actinc white bulbs on an icecap 440 ballast.
42064mini-lightfixture.JPG

Next week I will be cutting out the front wall.
 
The gasket goes on the wet side, but for maximum effectiveness, you can add a second gasket to the dry side.

You'll definitely pass more water over the box using "gutter guard" or acrylic egg crate, both of which can be purchased at Home Depot or Lowe's.

Where did you get the light fixture? It's very slick.

And "no," you can't borrow my Centropyge interruptus. :)

Greg
 
GSchiemer
Where did you get the light fixture? It's very slick.

I am glade you like it. I picked it up from a a store in canada of course they were on ebay .

And "no," you can't borrow my Centropyge interruptus.
You know that I am going to get a pair from RTC from hawaii. could you please share some pictures I know you are a great picture taker :rollface:

By the way any pro's or con's with the interruptus?
 
what GS said - the gasket goes on teh wet side w/ the nut on the dry side

you can get that gutter gaurd at lowes, HD, menards

Lunchbucket
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6672410#post6672410 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by trueblackpercula
By the way any pro's or con's with the interruptus?

I've had no problems with the interruptus in my reef aquarium with any coral, hard or soft. I sent you some pictures of it in the aquarium along with some photos of my other rare angels.

Greg
 
Greg

How do you like the modification? I think I will be able to pass a lot more water now:strooper: I have also started to work on the stand and the plumbing. Wow this sure was a project and I am loving ever second of it. Here are a couple of updates.
42064mini-gutteroverflow.JPG

Here is a picture of the skimmer. I will do all the plumbing without glue first. The reason for this is I will be placing Formica on the bottom when it is all done.

Michael
42064mini-skimmerinhole.JPG
 
It looks good. You certainly will be able to pass a lot more water over the box now.

How are you holding the "gutter guard" in place? It's not very stiff. I've not used it for this purpose. I've used black egg-crate instead. It's easy to keep in place by building a channel inside the box in which it sits.

Greg
 
dude were did you get black egg crate? I went crazy looking for it and could not find it any were. I used silicone to secure it to the inside. I took the dremile tool and grinded the inside so that it would bond better. I did some work on the tank but just not enough. I still need to get working on the sump and I need 1 more water pump. I think 3 more weeks should do it. I ment to ask are you using B-IONIC or a calcium reactor? 60 pound clams they sure must be sucking it up :) I was going to get one for this tank but after you telling me how big yours are I will just get a maxima.
 
I don't recall where I got the black eggcrate, but it does exist. You can always spray paint the white eggcrate black if you can't find the black variety. I've done that successfully.

I would have suggested building a channel inside the overflow box that enables you to easily remove sections of eggcrate material for cleaning. I don't like permanent installations of overflow guards. It makes cleaning very difficult, especially when you're dealing with a flimsy material like "gutter-guard."

I use B-Ionic on my two smaller reef aquariums (42 and 38 gallons). It's the simplest and best method for maintaining calcium and alkalinity levels in smaller reef aquariums. I use a calcium reactor and kalkwasser on my larger reef aquarium (500 gallons) but I have to admit that it's a PITA.

You should use a layer of Styrofoam between the tank and stand to absorb any imperfections. Unlike acrylic, glass doesn't have any "give" and even a small pressure point can exert enough pressure to crack glass over time.

Greg
 
Here's a dumb question.

The gutter guard you have there, is it plastic or metal? All i've been able to find is a metal guard, not plastic.

Thanks
 
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