The Tank that REEF CENTRAL Built - 450 gal display, 800 gal volume

theReefKing said:
The blue box looking things on the returns of the closed loop are supposed to represent Sea Swirls, so that will help with the randoms.
I also already own 2 MP-40s and an MP-10 which I will add if needed.

I dont know much about the ocean motions, would you recommend those in place of the 4 sea swirls? or in addition?
Thoughts everyone?

Regarding the Deep Pockets, I will be staying budget aware, but plan to not let cost get in the way of making the right decision for the maximum health, beauty, and success of the system when at all possible.

Now that rates just went up a full % I might be singing a different song in 6 months! HAHA! ha..... ha.... (vomit) (DCA knows my pain)
Click to expand...

Great progress so far!

I ran an oceans motion on the closed loop on my tank the first round and had some challenges (sand in the barrel, cant flow them with big pumps) with it so I won't run one moving forward. :thumbsup: I love my sea swirls and my constant closed loop without check valves!

I use to use clear check valves but they always got stuff in them that didn't allow them to seal all the way. (This resulted in back flow and sump overflow) It's better IMO to design the sump to hold the excess water when the power goes out. You can break the siphon by drilling a small hold just below the water line on your return lines. :thumbsup:

I like the idea of running the closed loop intake and returns over the back of the tank. This would eliminate many potential leak points.

Yes brother, I feel your pain! :lmao:
 
dca22anderson said:
Great progress so far!

I ran an oceans motion on the closed loop on my tank the first round and had some challenges (sand in the barrel, cant flow them with big pumps) with it so I won't run one moving forward. :thumbsup: I love my sea swirls and my constant closed loop without check valves!

I use to use clear check valves but they always got stuff in them that didn't allow them to seal all the way. (This resulted in back flow and sump overflow) It's better IMO to design the sump to hold the excess water when the power goes out. You can break the siphon by drilling a small hold just below the water line on your return lines. :thumbsup:

I like the idea of running the closed loop intake and returns over the back of the tank. This would eliminate many potential leak points.

Yes brother, I feel your pain! :lmao:
Click to expand...

Thank you for the input on the sea swirls, I think wife and I are sold on those. And check valves are out too!

The more I think about it the more I am liking the recommendations of reducing all holes in the tank by pluming over the back. It just seems to make sense for the overall integrity of the tank. Also it keeps the tank versatile for future uses, should it need to be moved to a new home some day. Rather than being limited by the location of the drilled holes, I would only need to redesign the pluming to fit what ever I wanted to do with it.

Not that I have any plans to move the tank, but it would be nice to maintain that versatility.

Thanks so much for your input DCA, I have been a fan for a while now.
 
Hey Bill....as far as tank builders go have you checked out Camden Tropical Aquatics in Camden, SC? I have reached out to them and they have offered to make the 2.5 hr ride down to Mt. P so they can see the room where I want to put my tank and come up with some design ideas. They can have glass or acrylic built and I think they are an authorized A.G.E dealer as well.

We will officially become Mt. P residents next week so I am looking forward to stopping by and seeing your systems!
 
Steve! Maybe we could tag team this thing and work out a "bulk discount" if the same company gets two big builds we might have more negotiating leverage.
I can introduce you to Jason who owns Aquatic Creations locally. He had done a few huge builds in the area.
 
Just an update on the timeline and the plans.

The house will not be finished for another three months, and we are going all in with the house build and the down payment (25% on construction loan) is going to suck the bank account dry.

But for Dana and I the tank is at the top of the list for projects when we move in, but it will be a little bit of time before we have the money to create the dream.

We will be doing a fish room. Spotter and I have been PMing a bit as he is getting ready to literally become my neighbor this weekend (small world) and he has talked me into turning half of the garage into a remote fish room. I will post some pictures of the space and the plans for everyone to give advice on in the next few weeks. The fish room, and water mixing station will start construction the day after we move in.
 
More pressing issue and question

More pressing issue and question

Next Wednesday we have our pre-drywall meeting with the builder. This is where we can get into the details of how the electrical will be laid out.

I need advice!

Should I just go crazy with the number of outlets behind the tank?
Should they all be gfe?

What rating wire should I use?

We plan to put a separate electrical panel on the wall of the garage that will become part of the fish room, but what else do I need to consider?

Please help as I need to have a clear plan going into next weeks meeting.
 
Make a sub panel that is totally separate from the rest and in it's own panel. This will give you the option to hook in a generator in the future.

YES All GFI... better be safe than sorry.

I would put quad outlets in for all the plugs. A tank that size would do good with 5 across the back and two on each side.

You may not use them all, so you will not be wasting electricity with them just sitting there.

A real controller will have it's own strip for controlling individual items.

ALSO... Have them run at least two network cables to a box to the tank area too.
 
Network cables!!! For the controller. I would have missed that. Thank you!

What would the outlets be for that we're outside of the tank/stand be for?
 
I new I needed a separate power box, but I didn't know why until you just told me with the generator. The power box will be named the Worm Box.

Credit where credit is due.

Thanks.
 
Sorry.. I was thinking of a built in.

Not really outside the stand. Just on three sides.

Just a new subpannel.
 
Tell your electrician that you will be pulling about 10-15 amps for each quad. He should then wire each one separately to the panel/breaker.

Code is different in many areas but I will assume he will use 12/3 wire for each one.
 
My suggestions are more general. Plan for the future. When the time comes and you need to make a change how are you going to do it? How can you run new wires if needed? If you have access to walls from above you'll be running them above. If you have access from the bottom you be running wires from below. The smartness thing I have ever seen done was to put in a few empty PVC pipes that ran from the attic to the basement in a 2 story house. After that the guy to do ANYTHING he wanted as far as changes to the house simply by running wires thru the PVC pipe.

Worm has a really good point about putting in a generator. Even if you do not do it today you'll want to down the road so prepare for it now. Also his point about GFE is a good one. I would put GFE outlets in so should they trip ONLY the outlet trips and there is less impact on the tank.

Thanks my 2 cents worth and if it wasn't for inflation I doubt it be worth that :-)

Joe
 
The only reason I say 12/3 is the wire gives you a spare. Not that you need it but in the event that you have to upgrade a circuit later in life the wiring is already there.
 
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