PistolShrmp
New member
Nice work.
TheDoogan's shallow rimless tank.
- Thread starter thedoogan
- Start date
johntran216
New member
Can definitely see the planning and work you put into this. It's an inspiration and definitely going to use the details in here for my future builds. Good work
thedoogan
New member
Thanks!
Thank you.
Lots of planning, sketchup is key.
JaYbIrD1969
New member
What a wonderful job! This is pretty close to perfect.
Thanks for sharing it with us.
What is the 3rd element you will be dosing with your 3 gang doser? Mg?
Thanks for sharing it with us.
What is the 3rd element you will be dosing with your 3 gang doser? Mg?
zookeeper911
New member
Thanks for getting back to me..
thedoogan
New member
Thank you. Get it done
Thanks for the kind words.
Right now it's empty but I plan on using it for carbon dosing in the future.
thedoogan
New member
Update
This is my favorite m-acropora shot so far! zingggggggg taken late at night when the polyps are out looking for a good time.
VIDEO
They are getting pretty pale in my QT, but they came in VERY dark brown. I've been feeding coral frenzy*frequently to try and help with not having fish to deliver nutrients in the QT. The first acro I put in there is doing good and actually coloring up and putting on some new growth.
Some blue LED macro shots of a Cyphastrea japonica and Zoa frag*fluorescing. These ones glow like crazy under blue led. It's hard for the camera to pick up on the non fluorescing areas as the blue tones get totally crushed.
I got a thin fan for the refugium light...and I guess /frag area now installed. It's thin and fits between the lights and the frame easily but puts out a lot of air flow. It keeps most of the bulbs cool to the touch as well as the apex module which is right beside and was my main concern. *Only three bulbs near the far side remain hot to the touch, but not so much that you have to remove your fingers after holding it for a few seconds.
I also ripped a hook switch out of an old phone and wired it up to the apex to turn the refugium lights on when the front panel is open.*
Both tanks are doing well, all except for the green birdsnest which seem to STN near the tips if I even look at them wrong. A large area of my city had a random 6 hour power outage the other day and I was completely unprepared with the QT tank! I ran out and bought a battery*operated air pump and struggled to keep the water temp up with warm bottles of water sitting in both tanks. It was a tedious nightmare but both tanks came out with no problems.*
I did however discover how screwed I might be with the display tank as the sump level slowly continued to rise and would have overflowed if I was not home. Water continues to slowly leak down into the sump from the DT, probably somewhere through the return line.
Either from where the loc-line screws into the bulkhead, I forgot or didn't wrap enough teflon tape around the threads. Or it's coming from the elbow piece at the top side of the photo which is not glued into the bulk head. That or worse it's coming from the bottom of the stand pipes/return lines where they screw into the threaded bulkheads :headwalls:*I did wrap a good amount of teflon on those though and screwed them in pretty tight.
Any ideas?
This is my favorite m-acropora shot so far! zingggggggg taken late at night when the polyps are out looking for a good time.
VIDEO
They are getting pretty pale in my QT, but they came in VERY dark brown. I've been feeding coral frenzy*frequently to try and help with not having fish to deliver nutrients in the QT. The first acro I put in there is doing good and actually coloring up and putting on some new growth.
Some blue LED macro shots of a Cyphastrea japonica and Zoa frag*fluorescing. These ones glow like crazy under blue led. It's hard for the camera to pick up on the non fluorescing areas as the blue tones get totally crushed.
I got a thin fan for the refugium light...and I guess /frag area now installed. It's thin and fits between the lights and the frame easily but puts out a lot of air flow. It keeps most of the bulbs cool to the touch as well as the apex module which is right beside and was my main concern. *Only three bulbs near the far side remain hot to the touch, but not so much that you have to remove your fingers after holding it for a few seconds.
I also ripped a hook switch out of an old phone and wired it up to the apex to turn the refugium lights on when the front panel is open.*
Both tanks are doing well, all except for the green birdsnest which seem to STN near the tips if I even look at them wrong. A large area of my city had a random 6 hour power outage the other day and I was completely unprepared with the QT tank! I ran out and bought a battery*operated air pump and struggled to keep the water temp up with warm bottles of water sitting in both tanks. It was a tedious nightmare but both tanks came out with no problems.*
I did however discover how screwed I might be with the display tank as the sump level slowly continued to rise and would have overflowed if I was not home. Water continues to slowly leak down into the sump from the DT, probably somewhere through the return line.
Either from where the loc-line screws into the bulkhead, I forgot or didn't wrap enough teflon tape around the threads. Or it's coming from the elbow piece at the top side of the photo which is not glued into the bulk head. That or worse it's coming from the bottom of the stand pipes/return lines where they screw into the threaded bulkheads :headwalls:*I did wrap a good amount of teflon on those though and screwed them in pretty tight.
Any ideas?
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I think it may be worse than that.... Any water that goes into the sump gets pumped up. Once it goes over the overflow it returns.... Water flowing into the sump (when there are no issues) will retun to the DT... Big pump equals a faster turn around. Small pump equals a slower turn around. The only way the sump water will rise (and others can correct me if I am wrong) is if it is making into the sump my some means other than the top of the overflow. Otherwise it would stop once the level went lower that the top of the overflow...
I think you have a leak on your overflow seams... If so you need to tear it down and re-seal lit..
Just turn off your return. If the overflow goes empty or down to the top of your plumbing, the water level in the sump should stop rising. If your overflow has a leak, the DT will drain .... Your overflow I'll only drain if your bulkhead shave an internal leak... Wich will not drain your DT unless you also have an overflow seam leak...
If it was just your return line lock the water would only go as low as that. Your eheim pump would likely handle any of these leaks and keep it from overflowing unless it was a huge amount of water....
I think you have a leak on your overflow seams... If so you need to tear it down and re-seal lit..
Just turn off your return. If the overflow goes empty or down to the top of your plumbing, the water level in the sump should stop rising. If your overflow has a leak, the DT will drain .... Your overflow I'll only drain if your bulkhead shave an internal leak... Wich will not drain your DT unless you also have an overflow seam leak...
If it was just your return line lock the water would only go as low as that. Your eheim pump would likely handle any of these leaks and keep it from overflowing unless it was a huge amount of water....
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gb530
New member
I wouldn't think its from the threads of your bulkheads and there's no way its coming from the sealed Oring.
However, I am having the same problem with my overflow and I know my overflow box doesn't leak. I did a leak test before setting it up and its a brand new tank. If my system shuts down, there is a small leak coming from the outlet drain pipe. See the image below for the kind I have. I think it leaks from the red area I circled and slowly leaks from the inside of the pipe down into the sump. I think my sump could handle all the water if my entire overflow box emptied into it but its pretty annoying. What kind of overflow kit do you have???
However, I am having the same problem with my overflow and I know my overflow box doesn't leak. I did a leak test before setting it up and its a brand new tank. If my system shuts down, there is a small leak coming from the outlet drain pipe. See the image below for the kind I have. I think it leaks from the red area I circled and slowly leaks from the inside of the pipe down into the sump. I think my sump could handle all the water if my entire overflow box emptied into it but its pretty annoying. What kind of overflow kit do you have???
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thedoogan
New member
Thank you for the reply. I don't suspect that is the case though.
I've been running some tests and it's not coming from the return lines. I closed the ball valves and shut off the main pump, there is clear vinyl tubing before the valve and if leaks were coming from the returns I would see them fill with water.
The water line in the DT never quite reaches below the top of the overflow box when the pumps are off. I have the standpipes above the glass walls of the overflow box and below the teeth. I wanted the walls higher but I guess the teeth were pre-made with the overflow or something, the builder would not do it. So I run the standpipes higher than the wall and below the top of the teeth.
I now suspect the extra water addition to the sump is coming from water continuing to slowly come over the top of the standpipe, with help from water turbulence made by the vortech. Shutting off the gate valve to the lowest stand pipe, or capping the top and the water does not continue to rise in the sump.
What is that wider area of pipe in the red circled area ?
Mine is a herbie style overflow with two simple standpipes. Just a straight pipe into a threaded adapter and screwed into the bulkhead. On the other side is a gate valve to control the flow (make it silent) and the other taller standpipe no valve.
Thank you! :beer:
gb530
New member
The larger center part is so the pipe can go up and down, to adjust and also so it can be used with different sized tanks (height wise). Its a complete overflow kit I purchased, not DIY
thedoogan
New member
That's an awesome feature, but could be a weak point and your leak. How does it attach to the bulkhead? can you unscrew it and try your own standard standpipe?
