Thinking about adding a calcium reactor to my 58g help!!

[Jettareefer]

I want preface this by saying I've been in the hobby for awhile and never been in the finacial situation where I could afford to have a reactor but now I am. After going through a ton of calcium buffer running NSW parameters I thinking dripping kalk and a reactor would be more cost efficient over time. What peices of equipment do I need? And how will I get everything going a tank with 30 frags and colonies without disaster?

 

[tdb320reef]

I have tried all sorts of methods and CARX is my favorite. Maybe look for a medium sized Geo just in-case you upgrade down the road. I have the 624 on my frag tank and it is set it and forget it.

 

[vette.tech]

Let me preface this by saying I have never run a reactor, but from what I've seen others experience it may be easier for you to just run 2 part. It appears that a good amount of people think 90+ gallons definetly carx but less water volume 2 part. Thought about a reactor for my 75 but it just doesn't seem worth the expense and effort when 2 part is working

 

[Jettareefer]

My main goal is to cut back on maintaince while dosing doesn't bother me I feel I could get substantial increase in growth from a reactor due to the constant feed. I can get a great deal on a second hand one they come in to my friends store all the time. The cost isn't really a factor for me I lean towards a reactor because dosing pumps scared me. In no way am I saying they don't work great I just can't put my trust in it.

Tdb320reef: Which regulator and ph monitoring system are you running ? and what's a good starting drip rate per hour ? Thanks

 

[tdb320reef]

My main goal is to cut back on maintaince while dosing doesn't bother me I feel I could get substantial increase in growth from a reactor due to the constant feed. I can get a great deal on a second hand one they come in to my friends store all the time. The cost isn't really a factor for me I lean towards a reactor because dosing pumps scared me. In no way am I saying they don't work great I just can't put my trust in it.

Tdb320reef: Which regulator and ph monitoring system are you running ? and what's a good starting drip rate per hour ? Thanks

On my big tank I have the CarbonDoser and the frag tank an inexpensive JBJ with a solenoid valve. Honestly they both do the same thing. Id just jump on a JBJ or Milwaukee as the CD is not worth the expense unless you find a used one. I use the Apex, transitioned for a while to an external PH controller, Milwaukee, but with this latest release of FW that makes the logging optional my Apex is stable again. I have had better luck with the BRS Lab Grade Probes.

As far as drip rate it will take a few days to a week for the media to start breaking. I use ARM course at PH 6.5. Its been a while but a drop a second is a good start. I shoot for 136 on the hanna Alk meter and test every three days to a week. I use red sea blue bucket salt and always try to match my alk with that of the salt that I am using.

 

[Jettareefer]

Good info I will look into the jbj and Milwaukee parts.On the frag tank are you dosing anything to keep the ph up?

 

[Peter Eichler]

I would highly suggest a Geo 612, an Aquarium Plants regulator (carbondoser), a PH controller or aquarium controller of some type to monitor and regulate the PH inside the reactor, and a 10 lb. or so CO2 tank. Personally, I would never use a Milwaukee regulator, they often fail fairly quickly, and with how often you replace them you can get a higher quality unit. You're also running the risk of something bad happening to your tank in you don't catch the regulator failing fairly quickly. Get the carbon doser if you don't mind the extra cost, if you do then the M3 and Reef Fanatic (if they're still available) regulator are solid options that will last longer than the Milwaukee. For a feed pump you can start with a Tom Aquatics Aqualifter and then invest in something of higher quality down the line.

1.) You will want to regulate the feed pump to be just short of a steady stream at a very fast drip. I suggest you keep this constant and only adjust your reactor via the regulator.

2.) Start slow with CO2, set your PH around 7.1 and add more CO2 as needed and determined by testing your alkalinity. I would suggest an easy test kit like the API so you can test often, use a 10 ml sample so you have a little higher resolution. Salifert would be my second choice.

 

[tdb320reef]

Good info I will look into the jbj and Milwaukee parts.On the frag tank are you dosing anything to keep the ph up?

No, On the frag system I have never checked the PH. I my main tank it swings from 7.9 to 8.2 no problems. I use to use Kalk but hard to keep alk stable with topping off variability.

 

[greenhead]

I disagree with Peter above. In 2 ways. I think the Milwaukee is a decent regulator. Everyone has had a failure in one or the others. I had a carbon doser fail. After disassembling it I felt it used very flimsy parts. Although I use the JBJ I used to have the Millwaukee and liked it. I agree with the other post above in using a tank controller or ph controller to start out. I have my Millwaukee ph controller turn in the regulator at 6.7 and off at 6.6 . Started at 1 drop per second and leveled out at 3 drops in a 200 gallon full sps system. After you get that figured out you can play with bubble count so you won't have to rely on the regulator. It could fail and if your bubble count is set to hold a ph of 6.6 nothing will happen. Save your money and get a good paralstaltic doser to really fine tune your effluent.

 

[Reefvet]

There are one heck of a lot more Milwaukee controllers out there than the APCD and you seldom read about them failing. If it were a common issue I think we'd know it.

There's a new small reverse flow Aquamax calcium reactor that looks quite good. It's made by JNS, like all Aquamax products and they make good equipment. I'm going to run one on a 60 cube that I'm just about to set up.

There's a lot more to be said for using a CR than cost effectiveness. I think you'll find you get better growth and color with one. But heck I've only been keeping SPS for 20+ years so take my opinion for what it's worth. :rolleye1:

 

[ct_vol]

I would highly suggest a Geo 612, an Aquarium Plants regulator (carbondoser), a PH controller or aquarium controller of some type to monitor and regulate the PH inside the reactor, and a 10 lb. or so CO2 tank. Personally, I would never use a Milwaukee regulator, they often fail fairly quickly, and with how often you replace them you can get a higher quality unit. You're also running the risk of something bad happening to your tank in you don't catch the regulator failing fairly quickly. Get the carbon doser if you don't mind the extra cost, if you do then the M3 and Reef Fanatic (if they're still available) regulator are solid options that will last longer than the Milwaukee. For a feed pump you can start with a Tom Aquatics Aqualifter and then invest in something of higher quality down the line.

1.) You will want to regulate the feed pump to be just short of a steady stream at a very fast drip. I suggest you keep this constant and only adjust your reactor via the regulator.

2.) Start slow with CO2, set your PH around 7.1 and add more CO2 as needed and determined by testing your alkalinity. I would suggest an easy test kit like the API so you can test often, use a 10 ml sample so you have a little higher resolution. Salifert would be my second choice.

This... :thumbsup:

I have had multiple Milwaukee and Reef Fanatic Regulators and solenoids fail. Aquarium Plants makes a superior product.

A peristaltic pump is the best feed pump, but these units can be rather spendy too.

If I were on a fixed budget, I'd try and pick up a used Geo reactor and AP regulator. Once I could afford it, I'd upgrade to the peristaltic pump. I use a CP Masterflex.

 

[Jettareefer]

Greenheart: You were explaining how to bullet proof a reactor setup with the bubble count is there anyway you could expand for me? I feel like a total noob but I truly want to understand everything.

Reefvet: you mentioned better colors would this because of stability and other trace elements coming from the reactor media ?

Peter Richler: thanks for the advise I really want to make sure I do this right the first time, I really want a Geo they're pretty awesome!

Hey guys another question my friend has a Tall Korallin reactor with an ehiem pump, are they any good I've seen them on a few totms in the past I could probably give him $50 and it would be a deal let me know!
Thanks everyone

 

[Peter Eichler]

This... :thumbsup:

I have had multiple Milwaukee and Reef Fanatic Regulators and solenoids fail. Aquarium Plants makes a superior product.

A peristaltic pump is the best feed pump, but these units can be rather spendy too.

If I were on a fixed budget, I'd try and pick up a used Geo reactor and AP regulator. Once I could afford it, I'd upgrade to the peristaltic pump. I use a CP Masterflex.

For those that think the Milwaukee is okay... I know of many many failures, had one fail myself after a little over a year, and they're often inconsistent when they don't just fail.

None of the regulators on the market are perfect, but I trust the carbondoser I've been using for a couple years now. When something does go wrong, they're repairable.

I need to get a CP masterflex... Has anyone seen a good one for sale?

 

[Peter Eichler]

Greenheart: You were explaining how to bullet proof a reactor setup with the bubble count is there anyway you could expand for me? I feel like a total noob but I truly want to understand everything.

Reefvet: you mentioned better colors would this because of stability and other trace elements coming from the reactor media ?

Peter Richler: thanks for the advise I really want to make sure I do this right the first time, I really want a Geo they're pretty awesome!

Hey guys another question my friend has a Tall Korallin reactor with an eheim pump, are they any good I've seen them on a few totms in the past I could probably give him $50 and it would be a deal let me know!
Thanks everyone

Get one! I had my geo for many years on my full blown sps tank but it was getting to the point that it was struggling to keep up. I recently sold it and upgrader to the 824. I will probably use that for the next 20+ years.

Korallins can be a little quirky and ca have clogging issues from what I recall. Do some research before taking the leap.

CA reactors, much like lights and protein skimmers, aren't something that should be skimped on.

 

[Reefvet]

For those that think the Milwaukee is okay... I know of many many failures,

But that's the problem. You're talking about too small a sampling of those who've used them to draw an accurate conclusion about their dependability.

I know many people who've used them and nobody had a problem. One of the highest posting members on this forum, who happens to be a chemist and extremely experienced aquarist, runs one and has had no issue with it for years.

So who's right ?

Nobody knows because we have no way of knowing how many failed and how many didn't. What you're offering is called hearsay and it accounts for 99% of what's posted on RC.

 

[tdb320reef]

Get one! I had my geo for many years on my full blown sps tank but it was getting to the point that it was struggling to keep up. I recently sold it and upgrader to the 824. I will probably use that for the next 20+ years.

Korallins can be a little quirky and ca have clogging issues from what I recall. Do some research before taking the leap.

CA reactors, much like lights and protein skimmers, aren't something that should be skimped on.

I agree I had a couple of Korallin over the years and they have small chambers and it is very difficult to change the media. I like the Geo better than my SRO 5000. The problem with the SRO is the screw on lid has to be torqued down. I have had 0 problems with the GEO 624 other than algae growing in the feed hose which I just replaced with a solid color. Defiantly a fan of the Geo. On the regulator I have had multiple JBJ's and Milwaukee regulators over the years and bought them second hand and have never had an issue. I know you have a small tank but the trend that people find success then eventually upgrade so when you make purchases like this take into consideration your future plans.

 

[jda]

I also have never been happy with a Milwaukee regulator - very inconsistent. I do use and like Korallin reactors, so what do I know? I like how the Korallin traps the CO2 at the top so that it can help you tune your reactor. I have AP Carbondoser on each tank with a Korallin, but I have had good success with M3 and Pinpoint regulators and would use them again.

Whatever regulator you choose, get a really good check valve - nothing like a bit of saltwater in your new regulator to lead to a premature death.

 

[fishguy597]

I've used a Milwaukee reg for 6 years. I think it runs pretty well. I have had to take it apart to clean the piston in the solenoid 2 times and while I'm in there I'll clean the needle valve. I deal with a lot of solenoids for work. At some point chances are you will have a problem with them since it's a mechanical device.

 

[Jettareefer]

Any specific brand of check valve you recommend? Which media is everyone running?

I've been reading a lot of people switched from ARM media because of weird rust like coloring in the media to TFL or something else.

 

[jda]

I use ARM - regular size or medium. The large stuff is too hard to melt. Dennerele check valve has worked OK for me for years. Like the sham-wow, they are made in Germany, so you know that they are good.