Thumbs up for Ozone!

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Bkelley,

What type of ozonizer do you have? Is it the RedSea unit Deluxe or Sanders or Aquamedics?

Do you have it entering your skimmer? What type of skimmer do you have?

What about your controller for the ORP? Which type, Milwaukee, Neptune, Pinpoint?

Have you retraced your steps on placement of everything? Did you clean the orp probe?

I have a 72 gallon bowfront that is ready to get some Ozone and I'm still deciding which route I'm going to take in turns of ozonizers.

Your input would be good for me to know what type of problem you are getting from which brand.

Mike G
 
I have a enlay 300 (200mg ph) is there any way of restricking the amout of ozone into the reactor . I have the ozone goining into my ozone reactor and the water that is coming out of the ozone reactor is going into a phasphate reactor full of carbon but still getting the ozone smell
 
BK, just a stab, but where is your probe placed in comparison to the effluents of your ca reactor(if using one) or any other types of returns. Does anybody have an opinion of the best placement of the probe(low flow, high flow, display, refugium, etc)?
 
I thought of that but that brings up another project of putting more carbon in the tank and on the skimmer. I have a plastic valve that is adjustable that I use to drip when I get new fish . I do not think it is ozone safe.
 
I use 2 different generators. I have a 50 mg Red sea unit with a controller and a probe that runs 24/7, and a 200 mg Enaly unit that I run as needed to supplement the Red Sea. They are both t'd into the same air line going into my ASM skimmer.
 
I think a lot of people are gettting too worried if they "smell" the ozone that they are going to fall over dead! Ozone is used for air purification in many places we are every day. Do the math on this and you'll see our little units won't do diddly to us. Here is a cut and past from one of the leaders in indoor air purification:

10.) What is the general formula in determining how many mg./hr. of ozone are needed for an extremely large environment?

* Also reference Document #4235 from the FAX on Demand system. DETERMINING THE AMOUNT OF OZONE DEMAND IN AN APPLICATION WHERE MULTIPLE UNITS ARE NECESSARY.
* As field experience has shown, this procedure is generally reliable. It may be possible, especially if unusual conditions exist, to yield different results. If at any time there is a question as to the proper amount of ozone demand, consult individuals within your upline, or if necessary, EcoQuest International.
* Compute the number of square feet within the environment by multiplying:

* Length X Width = Square Feet

* As Compute the Cubic feet within the environment by multiplying:

* Square Feet X Ceiling Height = Cubic Feet

* Compute the MG/HR of ozone demand within the environment by multiplying:

* Cubic Feet X 0.025 = MG/HR demand in an extremely polluted environment
OR
* Cubic Feet X 0.01 = MG/HR demand in a lightly polluted environment.

* Consult product specification sheets for MG/HR output of individual products and combine various products to meet the demand.
* CAUTION: While this procedure determines ozone demand, it does not deal with particulate reduction, air movement, or unit placement. Additional training should be acquired before attempting large scale or multiple unit applications.
 
Corallife Ozone reactor hookup. Once you get the crazy thing together it hooks up in what may seem like a illogical order. there is one picture in the instructions that seems too show you how to hook it up. The premise on this reactor is that the ozone travels upwards through bioballs that are UNDER pressure in a counter current method (it can be hooked up backwards and run also, but make sure you put a flashlight up to it so you can see what is happening inside.). When I had mine hooked up before adjusting (too much water flow, all the ozone was coming out at the bottom and being sucked up the downtube without going through the bioballs.
Hook-up--- the in pump goes to the nipple that is close to the side. This forces the water down (counter current) through the bioballs. the other or center one is output and has a tube going down to the bottom. Heres where if you put too much pressure from the pump the ozone may flow right out the tube. The ozone goes in to the nipple that is hooked to the long tube going through the first plate all the way down to the bottom and the air stone. The air comes out the other nipple and should be hooked to a piece of tubing with a needle valve or some flow restrictor on it. This is how the pressure is built up inside. when everything is adjusted right the water going through slowly and the ozone being pumped in with strong air pump, you close the needle valve to build up pressure and supposedly to set the inside water level to about the top plate it may even be closed at this point so that excess ozone and water escape out the sane water out hose. It works okay you can see a lot of bubbles going up through the bioballs with carbon on the outlets I get no smell at all. You can't see whether the pressure is helping or not. Before using this I tried an airstone only, a lee's air driven protein skimmer then my Euro reef. The euroreef did the better job, but I could not get it to skim very well. I believe the ozone kills all the bad stuff but you still need to get the waste out of the tank through a unrestricted good protein skimmer. My Red Sea deluxe is dead now and I'm still planning to call and send it back under warranty. I have ordered an enlay with a Milwaukee controller for my other tank (whole lot cheaper). I like the idea of a separate controller so you can set the air pump to shut down when the ozonator has hit the setpoint and switched off. This saves the desiccant which is possibly what killed my other unit (running it with out air dryer). The unit may have worked more efficiently in the reactor, but I will most likely usr reactor on one tank and the old skimmer on the other.
This is all my opinion but I tried to show some of the logic behind it (at least I tried before that last beer).
HTH
Fred
 
I bought an Ozotech Poseidon 220 mg adjustable ozonizer set at the lowest setting.

Milwaukee ORP controller, cleaned the probe. Probe is in the sump about 8 inches away from the skimmer return which is how I'm administering the Ozone. It's going through a life reef skimmer.

This is being used on a 72 bowfront as well.

I'm stumped. I've used ozone years ago and never encountered this.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6665199#post6665199 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mikeguerrero
Bkelley,

What type of ozonizer do you have? Is it the RedSea unit Deluxe or Sanders or Aquamedics?

Do you have it entering your skimmer? What type of skimmer do you have?

What about your controller for the ORP? Which type, Milwaukee, Neptune, Pinpoint?

Have you retraced your steps on placement of everything? Did you clean the orp probe?

I have a 72 gallon bowfront that is ready to get some Ozone and I'm still deciding which route I'm going to take in turns of ozonizers.

Your input would be good for me to know what type of problem you are getting from which brand.

Mike G
Click to expand...
 
Calc Reactor effluant is in a different compartment of the sump. Kalk drips within 6 inches the probe but doesn't seem to effect the ORP reading when the Ozonizer isn't on.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6665416#post6665416 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by reptoreef
BK, just a stab, but where is your probe placed in comparison to the effluents of your ca reactor(if using one) or any other types of returns. Does anybody have an opinion of the best placement of the probe(low flow, high flow, display, refugium, etc)?
Click to expand...
 
I personally believe my probe should be placed in display near return but not sure about how much water flow. I believe Anthony Calfo said something about what kind of flow to put it in just can't remember. My concern is that no ozone get into display. I think DrBDC
had it right when he said it takes a lot of excess ozone to actually harm you, unless you are sensitive to it and get a headache etc. When I was shopping for my second unit I ran across several 500mg models being used as air cleaners. I plan to shut my enlay up in the spare bathroom for a day two to see if it will clear up a mold problem. These aircleaner advertisements say it will permanently remove pet oders kill mildew and mold. I'm going to give it a try in separate closed rooms.
as always just my opinion and what some of the adds say. Well its time for me too get on my bike for a night out on the town, Club brothers are waiting. It's a rough job but someone has to have fun. No I don't drink and drive.
FWIW
Fred
 
My XL-15 air purifier creates 565 mg ozone per hour. When setting the output, you are supposed to set it so the first time you walk in you get the hint of it but not a continued smell. They do have pretty good fans on them to disburse the ozone. A lot of hotels use them for the antibacterial/viral/fungal benefits. After fire damage, floods and mold, etc. Now in some of those cases they put out 1200 mg/hour or more. Here is an example:

http://www.ecoquestintl.com/corporate_products/blaster.asp#

Fred, if you have a mold problem put it in the room, close the air vents and maybe block the bottom of the door with a towel. Let whatever unit you have run full blast. It will take all day, maybe a couple depending on the mg/hour output but it will die and just be dark black, you can wipe it off, or a good part. Then paint over any left over staining.
 
I have been reading on the web that Silicone Air Line Tubing is Ozone safe.....I have seen it in a bunch of articles saying it is ........my local pet store sell Green Silicone Air Line Tubing......I guess it ozone safe.....right ?
 
If it killed all the bacteria in the tank, you would no longer have a biological filter. The ozone shouldn't even get into the main tank. It has a very short life and should be burned up in the reaction chamber & sump
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6674155#post6674155 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Bill and Elaine
I have been reading on the web that Silicone Air Line Tubing is Ozone safe.....I have seen it in a bunch of articles saying it is ........my local pet store sell Green Silicone Air Line Tubing......I guess it ozone safe.....right ?
Click to expand...
If it's true silicone tubing then yes. It should have a spongy feel like the air tubing supplied with ER and ASM skimmers.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6676347#post6676347 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Kenfuzed
It should have a spongy feel like the air tubing supplied with ER and ASM skimmers.
Click to expand...

And BK skimmers :p
 
HELP!

HELP!

I just picked up a 200mg/hr RedSea Delux and connected it last Thursday. I set the dosage low (75) as the probe has not completely aclimated and am injecting the ozone into a "T" in my Sedra air feed tube. I a using an ASM G5 skimmer (dual Sedra 9000 - 1 fit for recirc mod).

I woke up Saturday morning and smelled ozone in the air. I have placed carbon over the air outlet on the gate valve mod, but the collection cup lid does not have any holes on the top (only has the cutouts for the lid to attach).

I am using a simple small airpump to feed the ozone generator.

What could lead to this build up I am smelling? I don't even have the unit turned up very far. From what I have read, the ozone should dissapate in the skimmer prior to being released into the collection cup.

Will lowering the amount of air (by dialing down the airpump) help? It would seem that the amount of ozone generated is the same (75 m/hr) but the delivery will be slower.

Is there a mod for the skimmer to make it "ozone tight"?

Thanks
Chris
 
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