TMC Signature 600

Tank looks great!

The wetside is the easy part to replace. I had a dryside go on me, and still haven't gotten around to repairing it, I just gave up and bought an MP10wqd (and got a second one for the holidays :) ). The QD is SO much quieter than my old MP10, but most of that is due to the bad bearings in the MP10. The MP10 QD are SILENT now, can't recommend it enough.

I've always considered going with the Gyre 130, but honestly I've been happy enough with the gyre of flow created by the MP10s. I was running a single at about 85% and getting plenty of "gyre", and now with the two running at about 50%, I think I'm getting less "gyre" but more random motion. I added the second because with one MP10 I can see that my corals grew into the "gyre" that was being created, so they're all pointing to one side of the tank instead of having a natural pattern. I think other powerheads that you can deflect the flow off the glass and at angles have this problem less, but the flat vortechs (and I imagine the flat gyre pumps as well) have this laminar flow issue.
 
Cheers for the feedback and the tips :)

My course of action is to get a new MP10w QD to replace the faulty one.

Then replace both non - QD drivers with QD drivers, and replace the noisy wetside. So i'll eventually have two MP10s on the sides and one on the back, all running around 40% either gyre or reef crest mode.
 
I love that the ES drivers have the ability to tell the system which side of the tank the slave pumps are on, so that you can keep them all linked and working together or not. Pretty neat how they're tied together wirelessly. If nothing else, I spent $100 on wireless drivers so that I didn't have to use a cable or press and hold to enable feed mode on multiple drivers. But it makes life more simple, and if you go with an Apex controller at some point it's easier to link them all up together.

Otherwise tank, skimmer, setup everything is looking good!
 
Added a reef link to the mix :


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[/url]Vortech schedule by DEAF N1NJA, on Flickr[/IMG]

Along with a second hand MP10w ES. I still need a new wet-side (on order) to run the 3 MP10s, and one of the wireless controllers RF module I believe is faulty, so it'll be running independently and not via ESL.
 
Really struggling with dinoflagellates that seem to be taking over my tank, plus the water seems to be ever cloudy....

On another note I removed the frag rack and attempted to create a 'Zoa Garden'

DSC_0324 by DEAF N1NJA, on Flickr
 
That looks really similar to my 10w LED floodlight that I bought for refugium use behind my tank. Mine worked really well, I'm sure yours will be great as well.

Hopefully the dinos move into the refugium. It's always better to have algae, cyano, and dinos growing in the fuge, because then they won't grow in the tank.
 
Cheers for the comments ReefWreak - it's a 30w led floodlight so hopefully enough light for the algae.

I have both a refugium and algae scrubber running, the dino flagellates seem to prefer the DT though - already covered and seemingly killed off a lot of my Zoa frags - completely covered the base and live rock too.

On a related note - i'm considering adding some branching live rock to the top right hand plate for more mounting surface area for when I eventually add SPS.
 
I slowly seem to be getting some stability in the system. I definitely need to increase the magnesium to around the 1350 mark, so i'll start dosing for that too.

Measurements by DEAF N1NJA, on Flickr

On another note, the replacement MP10 wetside is on back order yet again, seems no where in the UK has stock as they're all waiting on the only UK distributor supplying them.
 
A FTS from today - colours are still very bland, the water is cloudy and i'm fighting dino flagellates, plus SPS, while no longer dying, show no signs of any growth.

DSC_0335 (1) by DEAF N1NJA, on Flickr

I'll soldier on with the tank, as it's only 2 months 'old' since the gutting and rescape.

Considering adding some branching rock extending from the plating rock and finishing behind the hammer on the left, also a small section on top of the highest plat going to the back corner, for more SPS real estate.

STILL waiting on the new MP10 wetside to arrive, when it does i'll be putting it on the back wall, reefcrest mode @ 20%, just to randomise the flow patterns even more.
 
So my KH seems to be the most stable parameter - anywhere between 7.85 and 8 when I test for it.

Calcium seems to be dropping still, even with increased dosing, now at 400 so need to increase the dosing a touch.

Magnesium is now at 1230 - I really want to dose to get this up to 1300, however i've read you have to dose this separately to any other element? Can I dose this while dosing for both KH and Calcium? (at separate times during the day obviously, via my doser).
 
Struggling with algae of many types - putting this down to the tank still cycling....

Montipora 'Forest Fire' mid level frag seems to be getting some green colouration though :)

Second attempt at keeping Darth Mauls - they have a habit of melting to will see how it goes, the heads are very petite

'Darth Maul' Zoa by DEAF N1NJA, on Flickr

Also got a couple if un-named WC 'south island' zoas.
 
Tank looks awesome. Great build!

Maybe try using Biopellets and zeobak? Really helped with my water clarity but definitely research and see if right for you. I have a deltec 1351 and the same reactor but running Biopellets on a 25g cube. No refugium though so not sure how that'd all interact. Using Dupla Biopellets, salt and supplements.

1d3dac693777f987864ed172d7cd8e94.jpg
 
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