triggerfreak
New member
Maybe it was my bad.But i was assuming that your bubble coral was looking fine before dosing and now it looks like it is dying after dosing in the pics.Maybe i just read it wrong and was assuming something.Sorry!
Treating with Vitamin C
- Thread starter JohnL
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lotsoftats
New member
can someone do the math for me on a 100g of actual water?
40pages and umpteen splits It is confusing now....lol
also does anyone have/is there still the $5 off code I will be ordering from iherb tomorrow.
I am doing this for better color and growth. will this interfer with dosing vodka I started that 2 days ago?
40pages and umpteen splits It is confusing now....lol
also does anyone have/is there still the $5 off code I will be ordering from iherb tomorrow.
I am doing this for better color and growth. will this interfer with dosing vodka I started that 2 days ago?
Pufferpunk
New member
Dosing Vitamin C Chart
Here you go:
Use this product:
http://www.iherb.com/ProductDetails.aspx?c=1&pid=-7152293197697039798
$5 0ff coupon code: LUL789 (good for first purchase).
To figure out how much to use, decide if you want to simply improve coral growth, spread, and color. If so, then you should dose around 5 ppm twice daily. If you are having problems with coral or fish health, dose up to around 30 ppm twice daily.
Calculate the total net number of gallons in your tank (minus rocks, sand, etc). Enter that number here ______.
You will now need to do a little math. The amounts below are for 100 gallons of water so if you have 50 net gallons, cut the amounts shown below in half etc.
Dosing amounts using Iherb product:
1/4 tsp=1112 mg.
For every 100 gallons:
5 ppm ----- 1892 mg VC
10 ppm ---- 3785 mg VC
15 ppm ---- 5677 mg VC
20 ppm ---- 7570 mg VC
25 ppm ---- 9462 mg VC
30 ppm ---- 11355 mg VC
After you have figured out how much you want to dose at each dosing, enter that number here _____. This is your dose to be used twice a day.
Notes:
*Be sure your pH and alk are within normal reef limits before starting. Adjust if needed. Monitor weekly.
*Shoot for a ppm of around 5 if only dosing for improved coral growth, coloration, and spread. Shoot for higher amounts up to 30 ppm if you are having melting zoas or closed zoas and look for the causes of your problems as you dose. Check for high nitrates, pests, zoa pox, predators, and unstable water conditions.
*Dose low amounts and increase the amount slowly over the course of a few days to a couple weeks.
* If you notice an algae bloom or increased skim on your glass then cut back by half until it disappears.
* Watch your skimmer, it will start to skim more.
* Dose the amount twice a day in a fast moving area of your sump or overflow. You may dilute the vitamin c in ro/di water for a minute then pour into my overflow. If adding to sump, try and add the vitamin c after filtration such as skimmers and reactors.
* If you have a question, ask here. I check the VC thread daily.
* The instructions in this guide and throughout this thread are based on using pure Sodium Ascorbate, not vitamin c pills and other non-buffered forms of vitamin c.
Be sure to take some "before" pics!
Here you go:
Use this product:
http://www.iherb.com/ProductDetails.aspx?c=1&pid=-7152293197697039798
$5 0ff coupon code: LUL789 (good for first purchase).
To figure out how much to use, decide if you want to simply improve coral growth, spread, and color. If so, then you should dose around 5 ppm twice daily. If you are having problems with coral or fish health, dose up to around 30 ppm twice daily.
Calculate the total net number of gallons in your tank (minus rocks, sand, etc). Enter that number here ______.
You will now need to do a little math. The amounts below are for 100 gallons of water so if you have 50 net gallons, cut the amounts shown below in half etc.
Dosing amounts using Iherb product:
1/4 tsp=1112 mg.
For every 100 gallons:
5 ppm ----- 1892 mg VC
10 ppm ---- 3785 mg VC
15 ppm ---- 5677 mg VC
20 ppm ---- 7570 mg VC
25 ppm ---- 9462 mg VC
30 ppm ---- 11355 mg VC
After you have figured out how much you want to dose at each dosing, enter that number here _____. This is your dose to be used twice a day.
Notes:
*Be sure your pH and alk are within normal reef limits before starting. Adjust if needed. Monitor weekly.
*Shoot for a ppm of around 5 if only dosing for improved coral growth, coloration, and spread. Shoot for higher amounts up to 30 ppm if you are having melting zoas or closed zoas and look for the causes of your problems as you dose. Check for high nitrates, pests, zoa pox, predators, and unstable water conditions.
*Dose low amounts and increase the amount slowly over the course of a few days to a couple weeks.
* If you notice an algae bloom or increased skim on your glass then cut back by half until it disappears.
* Watch your skimmer, it will start to skim more.
* Dose the amount twice a day in a fast moving area of your sump or overflow. You may dilute the vitamin c in ro/di water for a minute then pour into my overflow. If adding to sump, try and add the vitamin c after filtration such as skimmers and reactors.
* If you have a question, ask here. I check the VC thread daily.
* The instructions in this guide and throughout this thread are based on using pure Sodium Ascorbate, not vitamin c pills and other non-buffered forms of vitamin c.
Be sure to take some "before" pics!
LCDRDATA
New member
The sequence is correct, but I wasn't attributing the decline to the dosing; rather, that the dosing wasn't enough to keep it from getting sick, too.
I have a Euroreef G-1(?) with a Sedra 3500 needlewheel that's been pulling all kinds of gunk since I started dosing. Not to say it wasn't doing well before, but the quantity and color intensity of the skimmate have both increased significantly since I ramped up the dose level. The only things I've dosed since I started the VC have been my standard buffer, calcium, and magnesium supplements, and occasionally some Kent "essential elements" and strontium/molybdenum and iodine supplements - none of which are different than what I was doing before. My tank temperature has been stable.
Pufferpunk
New member
i believe we already discussed the detriment of adding strontium & iodine to your system.
I don't like to assume anything; so how are you testing salinity? Refractometer? Glass Hydrometer? Swing arm style? The reason I ask, is that I've seen swing arm style become more and more inaccurate over time. I don't have a refractometer, but I do have several cheap hydrometers that I use to verify each other. Salinity of 1.029+ for a while could easily cause some of your symptoms and it is possible that an old swing arm style hydrometer could become that inaccurate, especially since you are at the top of the normally acceptable range. The only thing that doesn't support my theory is the healthy blastomusa . . . I've found the blastomusa wellsi really don't like high salinity . . . merletti tolerate higher salinity.
Just my $0.02
Pufferpunk
New member
Unless a refractometer is calibrated with CALIBRATION SOLUTION, it is worthless. It must be calibrated every few months.
Jeff
Premium Member
Its been mentioned a lot over the years in this thread and many others. Myself and almost everybody else in the hobby trusts Randy Holmes-Farley and his research and follow his lead without question. Here is what he has to say about Stontium:
My recommendation is to maintain strontium levels in reef aquaria in the range of 5-15 ppm. That level roughly spans the level in natural seawater of 8 ppm. I do not recommend that aquarists supplement strontium unless they have measured strontium and found it to be depleted to below 5 ppm. Measuring and supplementing strontium is not a critical activity for most aquarists, and is not a trivial exercise since the available test kits can be difficult to use.
From this: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2003/chem.htm
And regarding Iodine:
I do not presently dose iodine to my aquarium, and do not recommend that others necessarily do so either. Iodine dosing is much more complicated than dosing other ions due to its substantial number of different naturally existing forms, the number of different forms that aquarists actually dose, the fact that all of these forms can interconvert in reef aquaria, and the fact that the available test kits detect only a subset of the total forms present. This complexity, coupled with the fact that no commonly kept reef aquarium species are known to require significant iodine, suggests that dosing is unnecessary and problematic.
From this: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/mar2003/chem.htm
LCDRDATA
New member
I am in fact using a cheap swing arm hydrometer. I actually have two, but one is smaller and easier to use so I've been using it exclusively for the last several months. After seeing your post, though, I broke out the other one, and its readings match the first. I suppose it's possible they're both out of whack, but the larger one only got used for about a week before it went in a drawer for the last several months. On the flip side, the blostomusa in question is a merleti.
I don't think I'm stripping it out so far that things are starving; I've cut back my feeding some (since I'm down 50% or so from my peak "biomass" measured in fish & corals) but I'm still putting a good amount of phytoplankton & cyclopeze in the tank a couple of times a week plus multiple fish feedings daily.
It looks like Randy's gone into more detail on this than I was aware of; if that's the problem the large water change I'm planning for tomorrow and an end to dosing those should take care of whatever problem those are causing. Whether it's too late for things to recover is another story. That only leaves two questions on this: 1) has anything changed in the 5-6 years since Randy published those original articles, especially with the (ostensibly) more advanced formulations such as the Kent Tech I on the market today; and 2) if not, is there anything I can do to recoup the money spent on the 16 Oz bottles of those supplements my wife gave me for Christmas?:mixed: If they really are "bad" for your tank, trying to sell them to another reefer seems tacky at best.
Thanks for continuing help - I'd better check the other thread now. BTW, several individuals have recommended running carbon, at least in the short term - won't that strip out the VC? Or is the fact that it breaks down on its own after 30 minutes make this a non-problem?
Pufferpunk
New member
It had been dicussed way back in this thread that it is ok to add VC along with the usage of carbon. That being said, I use Purigen & dose VC in my sump after where I have that placed, just in case.
Dr Ron Shimek did a lecture at our reef club a few months ago & that is the most recent info I have gotten that strontium dosing was a bad thing to do. He also felt that dosing VC wouldn't hurt anything.
Dr Ron Shimek did a lecture at our reef club a few months ago & that is the most recent info I have gotten that strontium dosing was a bad thing to do. He also felt that dosing VC wouldn't hurt anything.
ambystoma82
New member
hiz does the vit C perform better dosing at day or night or no difference ?
Pufferpunk
New member
VC is absorbed by your corals better at night but since it is totally disappated within 8 hours, dose in the morning & night.
r-balljunkie
Registered Reefer
i have been quite lazy about measuring. i go with the sprinkle approach. i probably shouldnt admit this, but my spoon keeps dissapearing!
i have noticed a huge increase in skimming, zoas are brighter, and general coral health looks good. i at least manage, morning and night.
c
i have noticed a huge increase in skimming, zoas are brighter, and general coral health looks good. i at least manage, morning and night.
c
Pufferpunk
New member
"Sprinkling" a little into a 125g probably isn't going to do much...
r-balljunkie
Registered Reefer
probably close to a tsp each sprinkling.
c
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