Triple-S Fish Ranch - 1700gal 164†x 48†x 56†SPS peninsula build
- Thread starter pmrogers
- Start date
All I can say is WOW!!! I can't wait to see this build as it progresses. This one even has my wife interested. 
We (read I) have kicked around the idea of going big and I've designed a couple of concept tanks. My fav design has been a large T shaped tank that occupies/is visible from 3 different rooms.
We (read I) have kicked around the idea of going big and I've designed a couple of concept tanks. My fav design has been a large T shaped tank that occupies/is visible from 3 different rooms.
Not to wander off topic, but if anyone would like to see a very informative thread on LC dosing...
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2145395
dahenley
New member
paul,
in your spare time.....
you might browse through these posts/threads.
the first few are "EnergysReef" which was a 1700gal he no longer plays with reef tanks and has converted it to a biotope. but he pops in ever now and then and he might can give you more advice for the size tank. its different having a large tank verses smaller tanks.
second is reefski. he has gone through rough times and ups and downs and might can help you avoid certain things.
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-01/totm/index.php
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=689929
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2144375
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=15135699#post15135699
in your spare time.....
you might browse through these posts/threads.
the first few are "EnergysReef" which was a 1700gal he no longer plays with reef tanks and has converted it to a biotope. but he pops in ever now and then and he might can give you more advice for the size tank. its different having a large tank verses smaller tanks.
second is reefski. he has gone through rough times and ups and downs and might can help you avoid certain things.
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-01/totm/index.php
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=689929
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2144375
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=15135699#post15135699
TankRazr
New member
Paul,
Hope you don't mind me throwing up a link as well while we are hanging on the edge of our seats waiting for more build pics.
Vivid just posted this video two days agao on why they prefer dosing over calcium reactors. I thought it was timely to the discussion and would offer an additional perspective. Vivids results with their 800 gallon tank as well as their propagated corals speak for themselves.
Not the smoothest presenter but you'll get the idea.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9yFdBnY-xA
Hope you don't mind me throwing up a link as well while we are hanging on the edge of our seats waiting for more build pics.
Vivid just posted this video two days agao on why they prefer dosing over calcium reactors. I thought it was timely to the discussion and would offer an additional perspective. Vivids results with their 800 gallon tank as well as their propagated corals speak for themselves.
Not the smoothest presenter but you'll get the idea.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9yFdBnY-xA
1dago1, Volcano1, sunfun, thanks for joining in and for the kind words.
Thanks, worm5406. I picked up the tank from US Plastic. It is an inductor cone bottom bulk storage tank made by Den Hartog.
LaCl soak is proceeding. Water is still testing 0 phosphate, but I just realized the reagents for my Martini colorimeter are 4 months expired. New reagents are on the way.
Thanks for including the link, sirreal63.
Thanks, TankRazr! Nice to see confirmation from another very successful tank.
Thanks, worm5406. I picked up the tank from US Plastic. It is an inductor cone bottom bulk storage tank made by Den Hartog.
LaCl soak is proceeding. Water is still testing 0 phosphate, but I just realized the reagents for my Martini colorimeter are 4 months expired. New reagents are on the way.
Thanks for including the link, sirreal63.
Thanks for the links, dahenley. I did follow this thread back in the day, and Energy's struggles with unwanted life-- not to mention my own in the early days of the 205 seeded with florida live rock-- were a major contributor to my decision to go with dead rock on this tank.
Thanks, TankRazr! Nice to see confirmation from another very successful tank.
Water change plan; coral quarantine setup
Water change plan; coral quarantine setup
So I'm about to place the order for the 36x36x16 coral quarantine tank and have started second guessing myself. For a refresher from earlier in the thread, corals will live in quarantine for a full 2 months before going in the display, and I want them thriving, not just barely hanging on through QT.
The original coral QT plan called for a tank+sump with skimmer and 2-part dosing. But as I've gotten into the details of water change planning I'm now wondering if I need any filtration on the coral tank.
For water changes, the plan is to automate daily 25gal changes on the 1700 (for 10% weekly change). This 25gal change will be implemented as five 5gal water changes, one for each quarantine tank. Each QT tank will get 5gal of display tank water as its replacement water, while the display tank gets 25gal of new saltwater.
So for the coral QT, this means 35% weekly water changes, which makes me wonder if I really need any additional filtration for a tank populated only with corals and a small cleanup crew.
Thoughts and feedback welcome, as always.
Water change plan; coral quarantine setup
So I'm about to place the order for the 36x36x16 coral quarantine tank and have started second guessing myself. For a refresher from earlier in the thread, corals will live in quarantine for a full 2 months before going in the display, and I want them thriving, not just barely hanging on through QT.
The original coral QT plan called for a tank+sump with skimmer and 2-part dosing. But as I've gotten into the details of water change planning I'm now wondering if I need any filtration on the coral tank.
For water changes, the plan is to automate daily 25gal changes on the 1700 (for 10% weekly change). This 25gal change will be implemented as five 5gal water changes, one for each quarantine tank. Each QT tank will get 5gal of display tank water as its replacement water, while the display tank gets 25gal of new saltwater.
So for the coral QT, this means 35% weekly water changes, which makes me wonder if I really need any additional filtration for a tank populated only with corals and a small cleanup crew.
Thoughts and feedback welcome, as always.
dave.m
Active member
Wouldn't the water from the display tank be somewhat depleted of necessary elements? In fact, isn't that part of the reason for doing water changes - to replenish those elements? You say you want your quarantine systems to not only survive but to thrive. I would think that would require optimum water conditions, not left-overs. Buts that's just me.
Dave.M
Dave.M
But the QT using water from the system it is going into will act and help with an acclimation aspect. So long as there is nothing wrong with the DT water system.
They will deplete the nutrients some, but not enough to make the water barron. Plus any food/particles will be in there exported and into the QT. 35% a week change is good and will keep up with water levels.
They will deplete the nutrients some, but not enough to make the water barron. Plus any food/particles will be in there exported and into the QT. 35% a week change is good and will keep up with water levels.
gofor100
New member
Dave M makes a good point. Although I don't think that the water coming from the DT would be barron (not Dave's words), it certainly could have reduced levels of trace elements that water changes with freshly mixed saltwater have higher concentrations of.
I would consider doing what you're doing, but maybe also supplement the DT water (going into the QT) with a gallon of freshly made saltwater. That should probably be more than sufficient. But honestly, it probably wouldn't matter too much, but since you want the QT to "thrive", this would be the only thing I would consider changing about your plan.
As for your original question though, I would say that with the 35% of weekly water changes, along with any biological filtration you have (i.e., maybe a refugium with live rock or something) and minimal livestock, that you should be more than covered from the filtration department, and thus, no skimmer really needed.
Also, dosing would probably not be necessary, since, if I understand you correctly, you'll be doing daily water changes that will have the optimal levels of Ca/Alk/Mg coming from the DT.
So I think I just saved you some money there!!! I'll send you a PM with my information so you know where to send the check (kidding)
All in all, I think its a great plan, and a great way to reduce the maintenance of keeping multiple tanks!
Hope this helps,
Chad
I would consider doing what you're doing, but maybe also supplement the DT water (going into the QT) with a gallon of freshly made saltwater. That should probably be more than sufficient. But honestly, it probably wouldn't matter too much, but since you want the QT to "thrive", this would be the only thing I would consider changing about your plan.
As for your original question though, I would say that with the 35% of weekly water changes, along with any biological filtration you have (i.e., maybe a refugium with live rock or something) and minimal livestock, that you should be more than covered from the filtration department, and thus, no skimmer really needed.
Also, dosing would probably not be necessary, since, if I understand you correctly, you'll be doing daily water changes that will have the optimal levels of Ca/Alk/Mg coming from the DT.
So I think I just saved you some money there!!! I'll send you a PM with my information so you know where to send the check (kidding)
All in all, I think its a great plan, and a great way to reduce the maintenance of keeping multiple tanks!
Hope this helps,
Chad
dave.m
Active member
Actually, I'm not as smart as gofor100 suggests. I was simply struck by the incongruity of installing a total system for more money than I make in a year and then economizing on something as small as a 35 gallon water change. I doubt you would see any great benefit from re-using old display tank water (comparable to everyone in the family sharing the same bathwater like they used to do in the old days) compared with the relatively small cost of giving all systems the best quality water you can.
Dave.M
Dave.M
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gofor100
New member
Hahaha... well I think the main reason he is using the DT water for the water change is for acclimation purposes (so that he doesn't have to acclimate the corals to the DT before introducing), and the economical savings was kind of a side-benefit.
Regardless though, I think if he's using his DT water or freshly made saltwater to do daily waterchanges, that a skimmer wouldn't be needed for filtration (which was the original question).
-Chad
Ding ding ding! We have a winner
. In fact, to help ensure that the QT doesn't drift too far from the display tank I will be doing a 100% water change between each round of quarantine. The DT water should never be depleted of anything essential for corals to thrive, or if it ever is I'll be more worried about it than the QT. Back to QT filtration, I'm considering running a small cannister filter on it to provide supplemental biological filtration and mechanical filtration in the event that a new intro slimes heavily or RTNs. Not sure if this will cause major nitrate issues, though, even with being reset every 2 to 3 months. So I wonder if I might be better off just keeping diatom and carbon filters on hand but off line, to be used only when needed.
o2manyfish
o2manyfish
If your QT tank is going to be hosting new corals, it's purpose is to stop pests from being introduced and to make sure the corals are healthy and stable before exposing them to your system.
For making sure the corals are healthy and stable, the reason for doing this is you know that with number of corals you will be adding over time, not everything you bring home is going to make the transition. So there will be some coral losses. Making sure those losses don't take out all the corals in the QT tank, I would make sure that you have a good filtration system for the QT. When one coral starts to crash, you want the dying tissue to be removed from the system as quickly as possible to not affect the water quality of the QT system, and to also prevent whatever is causing the coral to die from spreading to the other corals in QT.
I think adding a skimmer, ozone, and carbon to the QT system, in addition to water changes would provide some additional protection for all the corals in QT.
Dave B
For making sure the corals are healthy and stable, the reason for doing this is you know that with number of corals you will be adding over time, not everything you bring home is going to make the transition. So there will be some coral losses. Making sure those losses don't take out all the corals in the QT tank, I would make sure that you have a good filtration system for the QT. When one coral starts to crash, you want the dying tissue to be removed from the system as quickly as possible to not affect the water quality of the QT system, and to also prevent whatever is causing the coral to die from spreading to the other corals in QT.
I think adding a skimmer, ozone, and carbon to the QT system, in addition to water changes would provide some additional protection for all the corals in QT.
Dave B
Thank you, Dave. You're absolutely right. While I do want to keep things as simple as possible, running without filtration on the coral QT is probably a step too far. Especially since with each quarantine cycle I will be taking the tank from empty to packed full of corals over a 1 to 2 week period it is almost guaranteed that there will be a few significant losses each time around. And this way I can keep 1 or two small fish in the QT to serve as ich detectors.
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