Robb in Austin
New member
Holy giant photo!
Triple-S Fish Ranch - 1700gal 164†x 48†x 56†SPS peninsula build
- Thread starter pmrogers
- Start date
Timfish, thanks for the info, and for bringing out your setup for me to take a look.
And thank you, Epicreefer. You cleared up two of the questions I forgot to ask Timfish when he was out: expected breathing time, and whether to DIY. I think I will go with a tank system after all since it sounds like it won't be that much more expensive, and should be much quieter than running a compressor.
Thanks again, Epicreefer. Looks like HVAC is going to cut into my headroom, so I may need to go with more like 24" spacing. I'll post an updated proposed configuration once height is finalized.
Your picture isn't coming through for me. Or, more accurately, it is coming back as 1x1 pixel image. I can tell from Robb in Austin's post that it works for at least one other user. Would you mind also posting it to your gallery? Perhaps I'll have better luck seeing it there.
Thanks, Dave.M. It is a problem with Safari on OSX. The image comes through just fine on Chrome.
h.cordero
New member
Need to clear my head about the overflow box. Isn't the wider the overflow without weirs the better?
Research has shown that the thinner the sheet of water traveling over the overflow weir, the more protein rich the water is. Put simply, the organics in the tank like to bond to the surface tension of the water at the air/water interface. The faster we renew this thin layer of surface water and transport it to the sump, the better the skimmer will perform. It follows that for a given flow, the wider the weir, the thinner the sheet of water that flows over that weir will be. This is exactly what we want for our aquarium! The faster we pull the organics from the display tank into the skimmer, the faster we can remove them before they are consumed by algae in the tank.
took that from BeanAnimal
Research has shown that the thinner the sheet of water traveling over the overflow weir, the more protein rich the water is. Put simply, the organics in the tank like to bond to the surface tension of the water at the air/water interface. The faster we renew this thin layer of surface water and transport it to the sump, the better the skimmer will perform. It follows that for a given flow, the wider the weir, the thinner the sheet of water that flows over that weir will be. This is exactly what we want for our aquarium! The faster we pull the organics from the display tank into the skimmer, the faster we can remove them before they are consumed by algae in the tank.
took that from BeanAnimal
dave.m
Active member
You are correct, h.cordero, in that the straight Calfo-type overflow pulls the oily layer off the surface of the water better, but that is not the only thing you want to pull from the water. You also want to pull out all the floating particulate matter that your filter socks will then take care of. This floating stuff is actually blocked by the Calfo-type overflow and ends up accumulating in your tank as detritus.
It's a question of balance. The toothed-type overflow still pulls a goodly amount of the oily layer out of the water plus it pulls out the floating particulate matter which the Calfo-type leaves behind. And lest you obsess too much on your protein skimmer processing all that oily layer you should understand that the skimmer only manages to remove 30-40% of that stuff from the water at even the best of times. There was an article (in either Reef Keeping or Advanced Aquarist, can't remember which) that reported these test results.
You are welcome, of course, to follow whichever path suits your tastes and experience. That is why this topic remains a bit controversial.
Dave.M
It's a question of balance. The toothed-type overflow still pulls a goodly amount of the oily layer out of the water plus it pulls out the floating particulate matter which the Calfo-type leaves behind. And lest you obsess too much on your protein skimmer processing all that oily layer you should understand that the skimmer only manages to remove 30-40% of that stuff from the water at even the best of times. There was an article (in either Reef Keeping or Advanced Aquarist, can't remember which) that reported these test results.
You are welcome, of course, to follow whichever path suits your tastes and experience. That is why this topic remains a bit controversial.
Dave.M
Subscribed also.
In the midst of planning my own 300g build (has been creeping up from about 210g), and have the same three "s" goals as you. Will be interested to see what your plans are on the closed loop front as that continues to be my biggest concern in properly setting up my tank (closed loop for "silence" and, if I might add a fourth "s", sightly).
In the midst of planning my own 300g build (has been creeping up from about 210g), and have the same three "s" goals as you. Will be interested to see what your plans are on the closed loop front as that continues to be my biggest concern in properly setting up my tank (closed loop for "silence" and, if I might add a fourth "s", sightly).
Aquatron
Refugium pat.#D414,242
Air injection will help remove oils from all levels of DT then it doesn't matter which overflow is used
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mBlq1mzcsS8&feature=youtu.be
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZvdXWPRKIIw&feature=youtu.be
dave.m
Active member
I couldn't help but laugh when I saw those videos, Aquatron. When I think of all the gymnastics that so many aquarists go through to eliminate microbubbles from entering their tanks and then I see you doing it on purpose it just reminds me that there is no end to the different ways we can run our tanks.
I am guessing that you are not experiencing the irritation to your corals and fish that others have reported from microbubbles with your air injection system?
Dave.M
I am guessing that you are not experiencing the irritation to your corals and fish that others have reported from microbubbles with your air injection system?
Dave.M
acesq
Premium Member
Air injection will help remove oils from all levels of DT then it doesn't matter which overflow is used
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mBlq1mzcsS8&feature=youtu.be
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZvdXWPRKIIw&feature=youtu.be
Two observations about this full tank air injection method: assuming it does cause more proteins to adhere to the bubbles and essentially come out of solution, how are they removed from the system? If they aren't then they must quickly go back into solution, correct. Second, the method does not impact the removal of particulates, one would still need a toothed weir to allow a thick overflow, correct? Sure looks cool but all I could think about is salt spray on the light fixtures!
o2manyfish
o2manyfish
Many years ago I used to use a wooden airstone buried in the rock work, and run it at night when the lights are off.
Then when I upgraded to my 360 and then 400 I stopped using the airstone, and was using a 30g Carlson surge device which filled the tank with bubbles every 3 minutes all day long. I never had any bad effects on fish or corals from filling the tank with air bubbles.
Dave B
Aquatron
Refugium pat.#D414,242
I know bubbles in the DT are you KRAZY....lol
Air injection isn't for everybody for several reasons but if set up right it really has some good effects that aid in helping us keep better water quality.
a) Better gas exchange
b) Higher oxygen levels
c) Helps corals remove waste
e) Binds with suspended particulate matter
f) Better light penatration
g) Cleans rock and underside of exposed aquascape
Hobbiest must have a system that is able to remove micro bubbles from DT fairly quickly is a must. Air injection can be set up many different ways and used as a once in a while option if wanted too.
Here is a couple of ways i have done it, one is a very easy way and one is more custom using my 8 close loop outlets.
This is a MO FLOW oulet with air injection option:
This is an option using close loop pump feed air stone was lowered for picture as it sits in the tee:
Air pump and timmer is also used with this option showing two of the many ways to install air injection.
Best of reefN to you!
Air injection isn't for everybody for several reasons but if set up right it really has some good effects that aid in helping us keep better water quality.
a) Better gas exchange
b) Higher oxygen levels
c) Helps corals remove waste
e) Binds with suspended particulate matter
f) Better light penatration
g) Cleans rock and underside of exposed aquascape
Hobbiest must have a system that is able to remove micro bubbles from DT fairly quickly is a must. Air injection can be set up many different ways and used as a once in a while option if wanted too.
Here is a couple of ways i have done it, one is a very easy way and one is more custom using my 8 close loop outlets.
This is a MO FLOW oulet with air injection option:
This is an option using close loop pump feed air stone was lowered for picture as it sits in the tee:
Air pump and timmer is also used with this option showing two of the many ways to install air injection.
Best of reefN to you!
erictorres0311
New member
WWWWWOOOOOOOOOOOOOWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
thats a tank, makes my tank look ugly and old..... just gonna give up on it
thats a tank, makes my tank look ugly and old..... just gonna give up on it
saltwatershark
New member
Regarding your lighting decision, it looks like you want LEDs. I'm curious what type of LEDs are strong enough to penetrate the depth of this amazingly deep tank. I've seen LEDs with different degree lenses (e.g., 90, 120, etc.). Curious what your plans are here.
Thanks for sharing, this is a dream reef.
Thanks for sharing, this is a dream reef.
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