Just doing a little more armchair engineering here but another option you have since the side wall is FRP is to drill and tap it. . .
30" is quite a bit so you should get even distribution, with very little shadowing at the top of the tank between lights. It's not necessarily a shadow but while they spread light 45 degrees left and right, a ~90degree optic, 90% is within 30 degrees of vertical and so bright you knowtice the less lit area. . .
. . . Fiberglass isn't usually tap-able, is it?
wow, absolutely beautiful home and the start of a truly exceptional build. I will be tagging along! Good luck!
Looks like an amazing build and looking forward to watching it progress. Sorry to hear about the fish loss; losing fish you had that long must have been difficult.
Tagging along and looking forward to learning from this amazing home reef adventure
Tagging
Are those brass fittings in the ro/di system.
I feel both a sense of accomplishment, and slightly sick to my stomach over killing such beautiful rock. Acid bath, 2 weeks drying, and lanthanum chloride soaks still to go.
But now you will know exactly what is on it and what is not.
I do have a question. I found it difficult to work on my old 30" deep tank. How does one go about mounting corals, moving things, making changes :uhoh2: and such in a tank and deep, tall and vast as this? Will you be swimming with the fishes? :fish2:
Good questions. Mounting corals in the lower reaches will be a pain, no doubt, and require bending in at the waist and immersing most of the upper body. Not looking forward to this part. Moving things and general maintenance I'm not too concerned about given the right tools.I do have a question. I found it difficult to work on my old 30" deep tank. How does one go about mounting corals, moving things, making changes :uhoh2: and such in a tank and deep, tall and vast as this? Will you be swimming with the fishes? :fish2:
But now you will know exactly what is on it and what is not.
Exactly! I have hydroid colonies that are running rampant in my tank on rocks and was trying to find ways to kill them and only them but seems like death by bleach might be the best bet.
Not sure why the acid bath is needed though. Just in case anything survived? Or to break down whatever carbonate based life/structures might still be left.
Thank you, vair, and thanks for your thoughts on the overflow. With the relatively small 40" wide overflow on this tank, the water level flowing over it will be between 1" and 2" high. I may be wrong, but my understanding of the toothless calfo style overflow is that one must run with a very thin layer of water going over the weir to get the benefit. With a tall wall of water going over the edge the proteins stay on the surface and don't drain effectively.
Quote from Dave.M.
The purpose of the teeth is to deliberately disrupt the surface tension. Without this the oily layer on the surface does not dissipate and drain well. The teeth break up the layer so that it can be dealt with by the skimmer. People who do not have turbulence at the edge of the overflow (e.g. Calfo style) must aim a pump or CL outlet towards the overflow to duplicate the turbulence the crenelations give you naturally.
Sorry to highjack your thread, Paul.
Dave.
Thanks, Dave.M. No worries about hijacking. I welcome on-topic discussions in this thread. If sub topics start to take on a life of their own I may want to move them to other threads, but reasonably contained side discusions are welcome.