Triple-S Fish Ranch - 1700gal 164” x 48” x 56” SPS peninsula build

Also, in regards to upflow. I have a pair of streams in my tank on the bottom mounted upward. The corals grow all around the outflow. I get good upflow that mushrooms when it hits the tank surface. And the corals (mostly sps) having been doing well with this flow method for over 8 years.

My tank is not at deep as yours, but if you could feed your two bottom bulkheads with possibly a pair of darts or barracuda you would get the upflow you are looking for with minimal noise. You could run your overflow high, so no waterfalling noise, and pull the closed loop intake from your overflows so you could use both bottom bulkheads as outlets.


Dave B
 
Paul

I know of a few public aquariums such as Steinhart Aquarium , Vancouver Aquarium and more which are using MRC Pinwheel skimmers such as yours and are very happy with them.
 
Looking good. Amazing to see how much work has gotten done in a short time. Thanks again for the tour ;)
 
I would reconsider the closed loop pump downstairs. If in fact you go with a true closed loop, the downward pressure of the water from the drain will negate the head pressure to that height on the return. Given that you said the drains would be on the bottom of re tank, you would only have to contend with the head pressure above that point, which should only be a few feet.

I hope that helps.
Very helpful. I'd heard before that vertical head pressure wasn't an issue for closed loops, but had never heard an explanation for why this would be the case. Your explanation makes perfect sense. Thank you, Stylo328!

I like the flow options for diagram 1 closed loop,would be harder to disguise plumbing. Maybe cover pipes with epoxy then sand so it sticks to pipe, it would then blend in. Diagram 2 would be easier to hide,could be under an island of rock. I do like the sea swirls for return with pendactors to kick the flow up. I would put the closed loop pump under the tank,with the width of the stand walls it should be quiet especially with DC pumps. Thanks for including us in the build..Mike
Yes, option 1 is appealing for the flow options. I may yet go back to it. For now, I'm convinced that I can't get the aquascape look I'm going for with 2" pipes running along the bottom. Even with epoxied sand to hide them, it would just look out of place to have a 2.5" hump connecting all of the pillars and atolls.

Call Justin at Avast Marine. He is working on a prop pump that might work for this application. Not as large as the master stream. And on/off control only.

Also there is a guy in England that just installed the Hydro-wizard on one end of a 20' long tank and he has had to turn the output down on the pump. Not sure if they have a US dealer.
The hydro-wizard looks very nice. Also looks to be about the same size as a Masterstream, though, so I'm inclined to stick with Tunze as more of a known quantity.

Dave B

Also, in regards to upflow. I have a pair of streams in my tank on the bottom mounted upward. The corals grow all around the outflow. I get good upflow that mushrooms when it hits the tank surface. And the corals (mostly sps) having been doing well with this flow method for over 8 years.

My tank is not at deep as yours, but if you could feed your two bottom bulkheads with possibly a pair of darts or barracuda you would get the upflow you are looking for with minimal noise. You could run your overflow high, so no waterfalling noise, and pull the closed loop intake from your overflows so you could use both bottom bulkheads as outlets.
Dave B

Dave, thanks for the suggestions! Your system is amazing and your 'built' thread is one of my favorite. The rat in the intake tube made me cry and laugh in horror at the same time.

I'll give Justin a call and look a bit more into the hydro wizard.

If I do go with the vertical stacks of 6255s, plan is for the bottom ones to aim upward.

Interesting idea on using overflow bulkheads to feed the closed loop. I wonder if I allowed enough spare capacity to accommodate, though. Do you think my weir could handle 13,000gph at only 42" wide x 2.5" tall? I want to push between 3400 and 5000gph through the sump; add in 9000gph for two Abyzz 420 closed loops and seems like it might be a lot to ask of the overflow.


Paul

I know of a few public aquariums such as Steinhart Aquarium , Vancouver Aquarium and more which are using MRC Pinwheel skimmers such as yours and are very happy with them.
Thanks, ksed, this is good to hear. I'll post my impressions once I get it set up.

Looking good. Amazing to see how much work has gotten done in a short time. Thanks again for the tour ;)
Thanks, roni, and you're most welcome. It was great meeting you. I hope the tank will have water, or at least not be completely obscured by construction mess next time you're in Austin :)
 
Interesting idea on using overflow bulkheads to feed the closed loop. I wonder if I allowed enough spare capacity to accommodate, though. Do you think my weir could handle 13,000gph at only 42" wide x 2.5" tall? I want to push between 3400 and 5000gph through the sump; add in 9000gph for two Abyzz 420 closed loops and seems like it might be a lot to ask of the overflow.

I think it's possible. I'm not good enough for the math to say for sure. I have a 30" overflow and it's capable of handling my surge when it dumps, which I calculate at over 20,000 gph, and my limiting factor is the drain pipes. You won't have the drain pipe issue because the Abyzz would be pulling from the overflow.

And if the flow is too close you have two options. a) you dial the abyzz max speed down a bit. B) you remove some teeth on the overflow and increase the gaps to allow more flow.

You could also program the Abyzz to be alternating patterns so they are never both at full power at the same time, and then you're covered.

Dave B
 
Plumbers and electricians installed the pipes and wiring rough through the ceiling of the fish room/floor of the display tank room. What a mess! Getting all of this trimmed out neatly will be quite the undertaking.

In no particular order:
  • HVAC intake and return for canopy
  • 5 overflow drain lines (temporarily capped, for overflow leak test)
  • Two 1.5" returns to feed sea swirls
  • 1" siphon line for gravel vac
  • Cold & Hot supply lines for utility sink, skimmer wash down, clothes (filter sock) washer
  • Conduit for 5 110v and 2 220v plugs, utility lights
  • Wire to connect 15 canopy LED fixtures to drivers located in fish room
  • Floor drain under display tank
  • Conduit for USB, ethernet, fiber
fish-room-aug-11+2.jpg
 
PMR!
Your build is going to end up in the epic column and go down as one of the all time greats in RC history!

Thank you again for all the time and contributions you have made to better the knowledge of the community.

You tank will a reason to find my way out to Austin!
 
Thanks for the confirmation, Elliott. Your system is one of the reasons I decided it would be okay to start out without a reactor. Glad to hear you are happy with your 2-part system at scale-- was planning to shoot you a PM to check in on your satisfaction with the setup. About how often have you needed to refill your 50g reservoirs?



Thanks for the input dahenley. I am open to adding a reactor later if there does turn out to be more hassle with the 2-part than I'm anticipating. For now, I'm hoping that the large reservoirs will let me go 2+ months between needing to mix more, and that the process of mixing will be relatively painless: a few minutes to fill with RO/DI, then just dump in the powder. By comparison, refilling a CO2 cannister is a 1-hour process to disconnect, get to the store and back, reconnect. And then there is the rest of reactor maintenance: empty, clean, and refill the media chambers, another pH meter calibration, recirc pump cleaning, etc.



lol, I'll post an update later today. But to cut to the chase, nothing exciting is happening while the fish room is inaccessible for the construction crew.

sorry for the long delay in my response...

I refill the Alk 50g reservoir about once a year and the Ca reservoir about once every 4 months

I see things are progressing nicely :thumbsup:
 
August Update

August Update

Bit of a slow month, at least in terms of visible changes. Progress on the 6 new zones of HVAC, electrical, and in the last week crews finally started back on the fish room and aquarium lights.

Fish Room Drywall Completed
Plumbing rough and drywall completed, but that's about it. In the last update I mentioned that I was hoping to have the room completed and start aquarium setup in earnest in about 3 weeks. 4 weeks later I'd say we are still 3 to 4 weeks from being done. Still to go: painting, finish flooring, HVAC, plumbing and electrical finish out.
1700gal-aug-2013+5.jpg


Finish out of ceiling around pipes
Builder made everything look pretty, but I may ask him to tear out around the pipes or drill extra holes in the ceiling. Don't like the idea of potential leaks running down the pipes and then pooling on the ceiling.
1700gal-aug-2013+6.jpg



Tank-side Plumbing and Electrical
Originally thought I'd have a nice broom closet of sorts between the tank and wall, good place to store tongs, gloves, snuba setup. Now with 90% of the plumbing, ducting and electrical in place it is obvious I need a new plan. Not much else is going in there.
1700gal-aug-2013+11.jpg



Fiberglass pan and drain under tank
1700gal-aug-2013+4.jpg


Leg Extensions for Aquarium Base
This was the most unwelcome surprise of the last month. As you may recall, I designed the stand with the leg cage inset 6.5" from the top to allow for installation of a soundproof wall around the base. I had the engineer review this design; the same engineer who did the structural steel for the main structure. The engineer designed the structural steel under the slab with extra beams running the perimeter of the tank. Well, he installed the perimeter bracing to the dimensions of the tank, not the base of the stand. 8 weeks later, after all framing and drywall is in, he realizes that the tank is now set up to punch a hole through the slab since the floor bracing is set 6.5" outside the stand. This left us with the choice of tearing out the fish room framing to install new support beams, or adding 'wings' to the base of the stand to carry load out to the beams. The wing route is 1/4 the cost, but of course this will now complicate installation of the soundproof surround. Ugh.
1700gal-aug-2013.jpg



Another 2-day Peek at the Tank, another Scale Perspective Moment
Tank was uncovered for 2 days between finishing out the ceiling light framing and the interior buildout crew coming in. As you can seen in the picture, the glass and bottom of the tank were filthy. Cleaning it brought another moment of perspective on the scale of the tank when I climbed in with the shop vac to clean the bottom and quickly realized that it would be much better to use a broom and mop for the job.
1700gal-aug-2013+15.jpg



Light Rack
The lighting rack made for a fun design challenge. Objectives were: 1) low profile to maximize headroom above tank; 2) easily accommodate adding new lights or repositioning existing; 3) slide front to back for times when I need to crawl around on top of tank.

Sliding Railes
Rather than use rolling tracks I decided to go with aluminum slides. This saved a few inches of clearance at the expense of smooth operation. I don't anticipate moving the lights more than a few times a year if that, so hoping this was the right trade off.
1700gal-aug-2013+3.jpg


Light Mounts
Wood light mounts are sloped to counter the ceiling slope. Lights are fastened on with spacer washers on the outside mounting holes to make each light in a pair tilt in toward its mate. The entire mount tilts into or out of the frame for light changes. This design also allows the lights to slide left and light on the rails if I decide to insert additional cannons later.
1700gal-aug-2013+1.jpg


Initial 12 Cannon Array Mounted
1700gal-aug-2013+12.jpg


Tank Preview with Flooring
1700gal-aug-2013+10.jpg
 
August Update, part 2

August Update, part 2

So now I've learned there is a 10-picture limit per post...


As of September 1
And now, everything is covered up once again. Interior finish out crew masked off flooring and tank, and unloaded their first batch of interior soundproofing windows and paneling yesterday. In theory, this crew will be done in 4 weeks and I should have access to the tank in early October.

On a fun technical note not exactly aquarium related, the interior windows are 1/2" starphire glass. I was surprised to learn that the usual window manufacturing suspects had the ability to do a 1/2" thick solid pane window, but had not heard of low-iron glass. I would think even non aquarium people would complain about the green cast on 1/2" thick windows.
1700gal-aug-2013+13.jpg
 
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I'm not sure I understand why the leg extensions would be a problem for the sound proofing. Would you not just build outwards from the steel frame? The shape of the pan inside the frame suggests that is the way you are going anyways.

Dave.M
 
I'm not sure I understand why the leg extensions would be a problem for the sound proofing. Would you not just build outwards from the steel frame? The shape of the pan inside the frame suggests that is the way you are going anyways.

Dave.M

You're correct, we're building out from the steel frame. The problem is that the soundproof wall goes all the way down to the concrete slab and is solid on both sides. Now it will have to be notched out around each leg extension, which has two downsides: more complicated to build, and compromises the soundproofing.
 
Okay. Understood. I suppose you could use foam around the leg extensions to minimize the any noise seepage.

Dave.M
 
let me just start by saying your tank build is inspiring.

i was looking at a popular sps tank on youtube ( vivadi) and he uses 5 cannons on a tank roughly 50"x30"24" will you have enough light with your twelve cannons?. really looking forward to seeing this tank lit.
 
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