Triple-S Fish Ranch - 1700gal 164” x 48” x 56” SPS peninsula build

Regarding the higher bulkhead, I go back and forth. In favor of it: less stress on the pump, and removing the elbows would allow room for a short length of silicone hose to isolate vibration. On the downside, I think the sump water level would need to be about 6" higher to avoid air suction, which would mean the bottom 6" of the filter socks are submerged. And I'm not sure how real the stress on the pump intake would be between it having a built in pre-filter chamber, the fact that it will be running it at only about 1/2 its capacity, and the sump water level being several inches above the top elbow.

I know when I read through the instructions on my Intelliflo pump it specifically said not to put any elbows a minimum of 5x the pipe diameter before the pump. So 2" would need a 10" straight run in front of the pump.

I went a step further on my set-up. Reducing suction side stress on a pump can pay off in huge electrical savings in the long run. My pump is set 90* from my sump, so I needed to make a hard 90 in front of. I tapped into the sump with a 4" hole, 4" 90* elbow, short 6-8" piece of straight 4" pipe into an eccentric reducer (always use an eccentric reducer in front of a pump if possible) directly to 2".

FlexPVC sells 4" to 2" eccentric reducers
http://flexpvc.com/cart/agora.cgi?cart_id=69836489.28352&product=PVC-Couples-Reducing

I would take some time to do this part "right". Your pump will last longer and use much less energy when multiplied out over years of service

Trying turning the pump so the inlet is facing the wall.............

and maybe double 45's glued into a dogleg "Z" instead of 2x 90's ? .............
 
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You are best off dealing directly with Abyzz. They have a web site and can contact them directly. The owners name is Alex and is a great guy to deal with. If you have any further questions on Abyzz pumps please PM me or you can contact Abyzz directly. HTH
 
Thanks for the tip on the quick connects.

Have you considered the hydrowizard pumps instead of or with the tunze? I think the medium pushes around 15k gph.
 
I know when I read through the instructions on my Intelliflo pump it specifically said not to put any elbows a minimum of 5x the pipe diameter before the pump. So 2" would need a 10" straight run in front of the pump.

. . .

rbarn, thanks for staying on me about this. Reading the manual, what a novel concept and one I could benefit from applying! Another reason I wasn't worrying about the elbows was because I've seen multiple pool pump installs with elbows right before the intake-- bad call on my part to assume a pool builder would install pumps correctly.

I'll drill for a new bulkhead at the height of the pump intake. If the water level in the sump is too high, I'll look at adding an elbow down inside the sump.

Thanks for the tip on the quick connects.

Have you considered the hydrowizard pumps instead of or with the tunze? I think the medium pushes around 15k gph.

Glad you brought this up, msderganc. hydrowizard was off my list because I was still thinking of them as having just the one monster pump that is even larger than a Master Stream. With your nudge I took another look and discovered the ECM63. With 3/4 as much flow as a Master Stream and only 1/4 the size, it is a very appealing option.
 
Got on RC today looking for inspiration on a new build I'm starting and rolled across your build.. Blown a way! Looking forward to seeing your completed project.
 
Triple-S Fish Ranch - 1700gal 164" x 48" x 56" SPS peninsula build

rbarn, thanks for staying on me about this. Reading the manual, what a novel concept and one I could benefit from applying! Another reason I wasn't worrying about the elbows was because I've seen multiple pool pump installs with elbows right before the intake-- bad call on my part to assume a pool builder would install pumps correctly.



I'll drill for a new bulkhead at the height of the pump intake. If the water level in the sump is too high, I'll look at adding an elbow down inside the sump.

Rbarn is right, being a HVAC engineer, it's best practice to go 3-5x the size of the inlet pipe of clear horizontal run before any elbows. This helps to reduce cavitation of the pump by allowing the fluid to be Linear before entering the pump. Cavitation will cause short term life expectancy of the pump. HTH

Your house and tank are inspiring, keep up the great work!
 
rbarn, thanks for staying on me about this. Reading the manual, what a novel concept and one I could benefit from applying! Another reason I wasn't worrying about the elbows was because I've seen multiple pool pump installs with elbows right before the intake-- bad call on my part to assume a pool builder would install pumps correctly.

lol, I went and looked at my pool pumps after reading that and sure nuff, all of mine have 90 elbow's 3 inches in front on the pump too, they dont gave a damn.


I'll look at adding an elbow down inside the sump.

Thats what came to my mind too. You definitely want to make sure your inlet is submerged enough. There are formulas on the web that talk about how import that is as well. Too close and you can create a vortex that will suck air.

http://www.pumpfundamentals.com/help11.html
 
lol, I went and looked at my pool pumps after reading that and sure nuff, all of mine have 90 elbow's 3 inches in front on the pump too, they dont gave a damn.

I own a pool service company, most pool builders/ plumbers do not know the physics behind what they are doing, just where the water is coming from and where it needs to go. They rarely go back to see the system actually working, or when something needs to be addressed the 2" that they left to work on something. But the standards for this pump are 6" in most cases, unless in rare situations (3xs the diameter of the pipe size). I install about 30 of these pumps per year for the past 8+ years and they are truly amazing and powerful pumps. You will not need to run anywhere near the 3450 rpm and still have more flow than you would know what to do with it, if you are tight on space you could go less than the 3xs and most likely wouldn't have an issue, espically if you are going to be below water level.
 
Also be careful where you purchase if you haven't already, the online prices are very tempting but being a dealer I do know that they have cracked down on the warranty, it is only 60 days includes only parts. But 3 years if purchased through installer/ dealer. Most online stores are only warehouses.
 
On the good news front, I've been able to put in more time on the system over the past few weeks than anticipated. The not so good news is that it is going even more slowly than I hoped, so I've done less in 30-ish hours of project time than I was hoping to get done in 15.

Since the last update:
  • Speakers and squeezebox installed in fish room and garage-- very important considering the number of hours I'm spending in these rooms!
  • ~80% of plumbing and wiring for RO/DI and salt mixing station
  • ~60% of plumbing between display and sump completed
  • Aragacrete applied to exposed PVC in the aquascape
  • Received sump and skimmer for coral quarantine
  • Ordered Hydro Wizard ECM63 and 4 Tunze 6255s
  • Cabinetry for reactors and filter sock drying partially installed

Ceiling Spaghetti
The HVAC installers did not do me any favors with their duct routing. The two 1.5" dog legs around the duct are the return lines supplying the sea swirls. While the Pentair has more than enough power to deal with a few extra fittings I can't help but wonder much those will cost me over the years of running the pump.

For all of these pipes coming through the ceiling I am still working on a solution for supporting them. Currently they are held up only by the threaded fittings on the display tank overflow. I don't know if additional support is necessary, but I'm not entirely comfortable with the idea of having the weight of 10' of schedule 80 pipes filled with water being born entirely by threads of the bulkhead fittings. Best idea so far is to use riser clamps strapped to the ceiling (ceiling is backed by 3/4 plywood).
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Drain Plumbing
I believe the technical term is "a mess of pipes": three 2" and two 1.5" drain lines, and the 1" vacuum system line all route from the ceiling over to the pipe tray above sump. The inside of the tray is sloped at 1/4" per foot. Ran out of 2" black flex PVC on the last drain line. Ordered more, but the seller shipped white flex instead of black. Still waiting for the new pipe.
DSC_2536.jpg



Playing in the Mud
Getting ready to mix up the aragacrete. When I called the local concrete suppliers to ask for a mortar that is both food safe and corrosion resistant I could sense, over the phone, that they were looking at me like I had 3 eyes. Then I remembered that mr.wilson mentioned a specific mortar in nineball's Coral Tank from Canada thread. Thank you again, guys, definitely one of the all time great threads!
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Big Bird Looking Better
Applied aragacrete to all of the exposed PVC in the aquascape. Now the ostrich doesn't have to feel self conscious about having his spine exposed.
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RO/DI and Salt Mixing Station
This is where most of my time went the past few weeks. What I thought would be a 5 or 6 hour project is currently at 20 hours and counting. Routing plumbing and electrical for 4 pumps, 2 UVs, float switches, and RO/DI all added up quickly.

First challenge was how to mount the lower float switch in a 7' tall reservoir with only an 8" diameter top opening. I initially started building a PVC contraption to lower in from the top but didn't like how kludgy it was looking. Then had the idea to use uniseals to punch in the float switches, until I realized that for any given pipe size the fitting that would hold the switch would fit over the outside of the pipe and make it impossible to get through the uniseal. Timfish to the rescue with his router: turns out that with a little work a 1.5" female NPT adapter will fit inside a 2" pipe. Now the question is, will the float switch rubber washer be up to the task of holding back 6' of water head?
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Float switches for RO/DI installed in reservoir.
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Pumps for the RO/DI reservoir are mounted behind the skimmer and Alk/Ca reservoirs.
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Plumbing completed for the input side of the salt mixing station. Relocated the small UV recirc pump over to right side of reservoir, not pictured.
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Mixing station about 80% complete. Still to go: output manifold for the Panworld 70, ATO and auto water change feeds, 50' Apex control cable for the power bar, connect top UV to RO/DI reservoir.
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The four plug Apex power bar controls the two UV units and recirc pumps. The manually switched plugs are for the Panworld 100 pump that moves water from the RO/DI reservoir to the saltwater reservoir, and for the Panworld 70 that drives the mixing eductor and (I hope) draws salt slurry from the conical mixing tank.
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February Update, part 2

February Update, part 2

Coral QT Equipment Arrival
Sump, skimmer and media reactor for the coral quarantine arrived. I have to say, considering the relatively low cost, I'm impressed with the quality of the acrylic work on the Vertex skimmer and reactor.
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Reactor Station base cabinet and sock drying broom closet
7' x 18" counter for reactors. Planning to start with Carbon, GFO. Likely to add Ozone and Kalkwasser later, and should have room for calcium reactor and bio pellets as well, though don't currently intend to use either. Taller cabinet to right will have screen doors: filter socks and towels will hang in here to dry
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great progress!!! early on you wrote about a denitrator with the sump, is that still planned or are bio pellets(if used) the method perferred? how much rock are you using? the DT looks minimalist design and notwithstanding the extensive sump design, NO3 could be hard to control with what i anticipate to be a huge fish load.
 
great progress!!! early on you wrote about a denitrator with the sump, is that still planned or are bio pellets(if used) the method perferred? how much rock are you using? the DT looks minimalist design and notwithstanding the extensive sump design, NO3 could be hard to control with what i anticipate to be a huge fish load.
I think the massive skimmer will easily control the nutrient levels.
Very nice build as been said many times before, well thought out for sure :thumbsup:
 
Drain Plumbing
I believe the technical term is "a mess of pipes": three 2" and two 1.5" drain lines, and the 1" vacuum system line all route from the ceiling over to the pipe tray above sump. The inside of the tray is sloped at 1/4" per foot. Ran out of 2" black flex PVC on the last drain line. Ordered more, but the seller shipped white flex instead of black. Still waiting for the new pipe.
DSC_2536.jpg

Looks great! About to do the electrical in my fish room and have a question.
Above the long box in this picture, what do you have going on in the three grey boxes? (they say CALTEX?) Electrical cords running to plugs? Junction bars??

I'd also think securing the plumping out of the ceiling is a must do. Maybe a couple of threaded rods dropping down from ceiling holding a typical plumping/electrical mounting channel that you secure the pipe clamps into. Sorry I don't know the 'trade' names of such item but could search and show you no problem, if my explanation isn't good.
 
pmrogers said:
I don't know if additional support is necessary, but I'm not entirely comfortable with the idea of having the weight of 10' of schedule 80 pipes filled with water being born entirely by threads of the bulkhead fittings. Best idea so far is to use riser clamps strapped to the ceiling
Why not something simpler like the pipe tray you installed above your sump? You could depend this from the ceiling and/or adjoining wall and support all the pipes on it. Just a thought.

Dave.M
 
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