TrUeBlAcKperCuLa 120 sps under radion G1

[cugly]

How many fixture are you using again for your tank?

 

[kaserpick]

As I understand it, if you had a halide (or perhaps T5, as well) lamp and an LED puck that yielded comparable intensity, they're PAR readings will not be the same. The LED puck would yield a lower PAR reading, despite it's true intensity being relatively the same as a halide. For this reason, many people have bleached their corals by setting the LED's intensity high enough to yield comparable PAR results to halide (or T5) lighting. For some reason, LED intensity does not translate into PAR reading in the same ratio as other lighting; I can only speculate that this is due to specificity of the emitters' wavelengths.

I believe this is what they're referring to as the 'Fudge Factor'. I'm not sure if you need to add 20%-30% to your LED readings or subtract it from the target readings that you use to get from halides. Perhaps Rovster can explain more.

 

[trueblackpercula]

How many fixture are you using again for your tank?

I have one fixture with TIR lens on it and the tank is 30 x30 x 31 deep

 

[trueblackpercula]

As I understand it, if you had a halide (or perhaps T5, as well) lamp and an LED puck that yielded comparable intensity, they're PAR readings will not be the same. The LED puck would yield a lower PAR reading, despite it's true intensity being relatively the same as a halide. For this reason, many people have bleached their corals by setting the LED's intensity high enough to yield comparable PAR results to halide (or T5) lighting. For some reason, LED intensity does not translate into PAR reading in the same ratio as other lighting; I can only speculate that this is due to specificity of the emitters' wavelengths.

I believe this is what they're referring to as the 'Fudge Factor'. I'm not sure if you need to add 20%-30% to your LED readings or subtract it from the target readings that you use to get from halides. Perhaps Rovster can explain more.

Thank you very much for the information I did not no about the fudge factor. But I no that In my case I was giving too litllte light and now I think my tank is in a better place. I will see how it goes and if stuff starts to bleach out I can always go and raise the fixture or lower the intensity.

 

[cugly]

Do you get shadowing with your lights?

 

[Chris Lakies]

Fudge factor= You need to add about 20% to your par readings because the Apogee par meter reads the bottom end of the blue/violet spectrum low. It really doesn't matter what type of light it is, any light that has a lot in the area of the blue/violet light spectrum of below 450nm.

 

[kaserpick]

Fudge factor= You need to add about 20% to your par readings because the Apogee par meter reads the bottom end of the blue/violet spectrum low. It really doesn't matter what type of light it is, any light that has a lot in the area of the blue/violet light spectrum of below 450nm.

That's good information to know. I didn't realize it was because of the lighting spectrum.

 

[rovster]

I guess that explains it. For the record, "fudge factor" is my term for this phenomenon, LOL! Yeah, basically the PAR meter will read LEDs 20-30% lower so just be aware, that's all so you don't over do it. As with everything, go slow and you shouldn't have any problems. Increase your intensity significantly while chasing a magic number, that MAY be a problem. Sounds like everything is going well. Tank looks good!

 

[Piper27]

Man I would love to see some pics with just the whites on so I can see what he corals look like. Everything is so blue! All I can see is the green stag.