Trying to reduce my electrical bill $$$

[jfingers8]

I have 6 SW tanks. I recently just switched everything over to leds and my electric bill was 47 dollars lower.

 

[karsseboom]

I still don't think a few bucks a month in savings to switch to LEDs is worth the start up cost. With my tank it wouldn't really save much, my heater is one a lot already an is only off during the day while my is on. Bulb replacement should not be factor on electricity saving since its not. People are having all kinds of problem replacing led bulbs/ drivers as it is. Should we now say count failed led driver in the electricity savings? You can't even say the LEDs will last 10 yrs cause you don't know that.

 

[d0ughb0y]

even if the heater offsetting the led power savings argument is correct, it is correct only during winter. when summer time comes, come back and tell us if your heaters still kick in 24/7.

 

[Garage1217]

In some cases, switching to led does not make sense at all. Especially with smaller tanks that may be running say a single 150w halide or even two. It makes a LOT of sense for those of us running larger tanks that use a lot of power. The savings are significant and pay off is relatively short especially when you can sell off your halide hear to recoup a lot of the cost

To note, I run 10 led drivers and have had 0 failures so far. I also run 120 cree xr-e leds and have had zero failures as the fixture is setup and designed properly. My original pair of Maxspect G2's that I sold off in 2010 are still running to this day, no failures on leds or drivers.

With 4qty of 250W fixtures with my old setup, I generally was replacing two 250w bulbs a year on average and 1 ballast out of the 4 a year. Wost year was 3 bulbs. Bulbs I had to eat at $75ea, ballasts were under warranty so I was just paying shipping. When I ran aqualine AB 20K's, I was eating $100 a bulb / 4 of them every 1.5 years or so not including premature failures.

I will be happy to report back if I have an issue with my LED setup. So far I would NEVER look back. Just for some proof....

My old halide ballast setup...

My maxspect system / led drivers

My current led build / 5 drivers per end cap the day it was finished and over the tank.

 

[Shmoopy]

I think where you live has alot to do with it. Here in Texas it is extremely cheaper to run a heater for 2 months of the year with leds than run a chiller 10 month a year with MH. I switched to leds and my bill is about a third less than it was.

 

[power boat jim]

I still don't think a few bucks a month in savings to switch to LEDs is worth the start up cost. With my tank it wouldn't really save much, my heater is one a lot already an is only off during the day while my is on. Bulb replacement should not be factor on electricity saving since its not. People are having all kinds of problem replacing led bulbs/ drivers as it is. Should we now say count failed led driver in the electricity savings? You can't even say the LEDs will last 10 yrs cause you don't know that.

Noone said frequency of bulb replacement is part of your electric bill savings. Its part of the OVERALL savings you get with an LED setup. It has also been stated in this thread several times that savings will vary depending on tank size. You have to decide if its worth it. I think its obvious by now that you dont think it is for your tank. You keep trying to pick apart the data presented and countering with what ifs and I know they wonts based on your opinion.

How about you answer the OPs question by stating how he can save 50% on electricity and related costs by using MH over other lighting sources. If you have another way to save that kind of a percentage by doing something else, lets hear it.

 

[hvacman250]

Sounds like you did the same thing I did before you made a decision. I created a fairly large spreadsheet to calculate the complete costs for my tank with both my existing lights and LED's. I came up with a three year break even time. If my LED's last longer than that, then I saved money. My calculations were conservative as the ability to dim or run at low power and still enjoy viewing the tank means the I only run at peak power for 5-6 hours rather than 10. I used to run supplements only for 1.5 hrs at dawn and dusk and then halides for 10 hrs in between. Works for me so far, approaching the one year mark.

Actually the ONLY reason I went with LED is to totaly avoid any need for an expensive and costly chiller.

Noone said frequency of bulb replacement is part of your electric bill savings. Its part of the OVERALL savings you get with an LED setup. It has also been stated in this thread several times that savings will vary depending on tank size. You have to decide if its worth it. I think its obvious by now that you dont think it is for your tank. You keep trying to pick apart the data presented and countering with what ifs and I know they wonts based on your opinion.

How about you answer the OPs question by stating how he can save 50% on electricity and related costs by using MH over other lighting sources. If you have another way to save that kind of a percentage by doing something else, lets hear it.

I honestly dont know where he is pulling this crap from. I read on this forum 2-3 hours a day. I have NEVER read a thread where someone was blowing LEDs and drivers. Maybe I missed a thread or two, but they must be doing it totally wrong if they are killing LEDs.

I built a 72 Cree fixture, then another 72, then a 120, then a 24, all Cree. I have had ZERO LED stars go bad, zero drivers go bad, zero problems whatsoever. I belive the term "grasping at straws" applies here.

 

[KafudaFish]

I ran the numbers on my tank last night and with everything I spend $3.60 per month in operating costs. If watt consumption is off by 10% we can say $4.

The choices for my tank were:
Par 38 21 watts $90
MH 70 watts DIY $60
T5 60 watts (I think). 4 bulb set $100

Though there is not a huge savings for electic, as mentioned above I would be spending $50 to $80 each year on bulbs.

If I can get through 2013 before I have to buy a new LED light I am pretty happy and feel like I saved money.

By then LEDs will be old school and something else like plasma sun spots will be used.

 

[alton]

I spend about $480 a year in bulb changes and electrical cost. What would it cost me to build a continuous LED fixture to light up a 72" x 36" x 24" tank with SPS on the rocks and LPS on the sand(sand bed is 3"+)? Also it would have to have two breaks in the LEDs because of the braces on the 300DD tank.

 

[hvacman250]

I spend about $480 a year in bulb changes and electrical cost. What would it cost me to build a continuous LED fixture to light up a 72" x 36" x 24" tank with SPS on the rocks and LPS on the sand(sand bed is 3"+)? Also it would have to have two breaks in the LEDs because of the braces on the 300DD tank.

For my 72x24x30 I used 120 LEDs. I have SPS growing on the bottom. My lights are running at 68%. If I had to do it over, I would use less and run at a higher intensity. For your situation, I think 2 groups of 60 LEDS for a total of 120 would be perfect.

I bought 2 of these $385 kits: http://www.rapidled.com/48-ultra-premium-led-diy-kit-with-dimmable-drivers/

I substituted some extra LEDs and took away some drivers and ran blues in parallel.

All in all it set me back about $1000-1200 for LEDs, hanging kits, fans, heatsinks.

My build:

Are you in a fish room? Canopy? Does it hang in view and need to look presentable to the public?

 

[alton]

Here is an old picture with a cheap camera

 

[Agu]

I only did part of the math on my new 24X24X12 half cube with LED lighting. Running the tank including all power consumption averages less than having a 100 watt bulb on 24/7/365. The tank is actually cheaper to run than the ten gallon it replaced.

Only factoring bulb replacement, prior tank had power compacts, the LED lighting pays for itself in three years. If it lasts five years I've saved enough in bulb costs and electricity to replace all the lighting.

Part of the goal setting up this tank was to be more eco friendly. Top off is a non electric float valve, variable flow using Hydors, and of course the LEDs for lighting.


fwiw,