Tunze osmolator problem

[Cinder01]

I have seen this done on YouTube and now i wish i didnt cut the fill line hose in half last night. I dont think it is long enough to reach now. I can get more but that is pretty good hose, not the cheap kind you get from the LFS.

BTW i dont think it siphoned now that I think about it!! the top off water was all gone down to the last drop this morning. The end of the hose is for sure higher than the bottom of the top off res??

 

[hughjaas]

My Tunze Osmolator just stopped working. The control box powers up and the LEDs light up, but the pump doesn't turn on. Is there a way to diagnose if it's the switch, the pump, or the control box?

 

[Cinder01]

My Tunze Osmolator just stopped working. The control box powers up and the LEDs light up, but the pump doesn't turn on. Is there a way to diagnose if it's the switch, the pump, or the control box?

Does it make a sound like it is trying but doesn't pump any water? If so bang it around a little. Also holding it under water flat to the bottom with a little pressure works for me sometimes. I use RO/DI so I have never cleaned my pump. I am sure that a good cleaning would help as well.

Mine did that while I was in Florida for a week. Good thing I had an Live Camera Feed. I saw bubbles in the tank and had someone come over and get the pump going again.

 

[hughjaas]

It doesn't make any sound at all. I have it in an RO/DI container so it's clean.

 

[rvitko]

How old is the osmolator? The basic test for the pump is to touch the wires of the pump to a 9V battery, if it does not work, we can be sure it is the pump.

 

[hughjaas]

It's about 3.5 years old. Been working fine the whole time. I'll try the battery test this evening. Which wires - does it matter which is positive or negative?

 

[rvitko]

It is either a bad power supply, corroded power connection (if the DC tip that plugs into the controller is anything but bright nickel plate and this includes the inner + tip, this is the most likely culprit, basically if it ever landed in saltwater look here first), or a bad pump that is drawing too much power. Their is either not enough power going in or too much being drawn by the pump, the controller is probably not involved other than the power shortage is causing it to shut down as a safety.

 

[hughjaas]

It is either a bad power supply, corroded power connection... or a bad pump that is drawing too much power.

I couldn't figure out how to test it with a 9V battery since the wires seem to be soldered onto the controller. The controller box and power adapter are located on the exterior of my stand so there is no contact with salt water and no corrosion. The controller is perfectly clean inside.

 

[shawnz28]

There should be a connector in the lead off the pump. Basically the controller has wires from it and so dues the pump and there is a removable connector between the two attaching them together.

 

[rvitko]

As Shawn said, the pump ends in bare wires and these are connected to a terminal where they can be disconnected, older was a 4 screw terminal, last 2 years or so are quick release clamps you squeeze.

 

[rvitko]

Someone sent in an Osmolator controller with no return or contact info (from a UPS store in CA) if this is yours, please contact me.

 

[hughjaas]

As Shawn said, the pump ends in bare wires and these are connected to a terminal where they can be disconnected, older was a 4 screw terminal, last 2 years or so are quick release clamps you squeeze.

Thanks guys. I have the older 4 screw type. I touched the wires to a 9V battery and nothing happened - reversed polarity and nothing either. Let me know how to get a replacement. I just realized how much I appreciate having this ATO - it's a drag manually filling every day.

On another unrelated note, one of my 6025 powerheads is not spinning smoothly - it's jumping around inside the housing. Do I need a new powerhead or just the impeller drive assembly?

(PS-the controller you received is not mine)

 

[rvitko]

Can you email me a copy of your invoice, if not can you email me place and date of purchase as well as your shipping address? The pump has a silver tag with a date code, I will also need that, it would be something like 201306. Tunze at sbcglobal dot net

How old is the 6025? If the metal shaft the impeller spins on is still firmly seated in the pump, a new impeller will probably solve it.

 

[theviper]

Hey Roger (rvitko),
I read through several pages here of people having The Tunze Osmolator that won't kick on the pump when the levels drop.. I just started having the same problem yesterday..

I have had the unit since April 2011, Still have the box and receipt. But I'm sure it's out of warranty. Can you help me get it working again? I understand there will be a cost involved but I love the unit and need it working ASAP.
I am located in the Phoenix Arizona area.

Thanks Mark

:wave:

 

[rvitko]

It may not have a cost, usually the only optic sensors that fail are from mid 2011 as we had just transitioned to a new optic sensor design and had some production issues and when this comes up we cover it.

Send it in, include a note with your return address and phone number.

Tunze USA
305 Victor St
Austin, TX 78753

 

[theviper]

Awesome!!

Awesome!!

Thanks Roger,
I'll get it sent out today or tomorrow priority mail.. Filling manually SUCKS!!! I love the Tunze a lot..

Thanks,
Mark

 

[incloud]

Tunze Stock Pump Head Pressure

Tunze Stock Pump Head Pressure

I see this thread is a bit dated but just wanted to touch back here to say that I recently bought a house and just tonight finished getting my system all automated. My basement has a couple Hefty buckets downstairs, one 20 gal. and one 30 gal. that I have been using to keep R/O reserves and make my salt water in. Up until tonight I have been going downstairs and filling a 5 gal. bucket to top off. Of course that started getting old so I motivated and set up my Tunze Osmolator this evening. I am using the stock pump that it came with as of now with some 12 volt wire I got from Home Depot. The wire extended the pump so I could have the controller upstairs in my tank stand and pump from the 30 gal. bucket in the basement. I also plumbed my R/O into my main water supply and have float valves mounted to the buckets to maintain a full supply of R/O. So at this point I don't have to touch anything to stay topped off. I actually have some parts from an outside pond from before that I can switch the line for the Tunze over and pump my watr change water up with a Mag 9. So far, the stock pump that came with the Tunze seems to be topping off the system with no problem at all. The distance from my buckets in the basement across the basement floor is about 10 feet and then there is a gradual upward flow of about 10 feet to get into the sump. The water flows very fluently and doesn't appear to be causing to much stress on the pump. Now I'm not sure how long the pump will last but for now it is doing a satisfactory job and I avoided having to get the module or adapter that was suggested at the start of this thread along with another pump. Originally I had planned on getting the adapter and using a Maxi-Jet 12 but figured I'd give this a shot after contemplating for 3 months. I'm glad I tried it out and I will be sure to post back if the pump fails to last. Hope this helps someone out as I know quite a few people on the net have discussed this topic. For me, so far so good. Thanks guys!

 

[CaptreeOne]

Hi Rvitko, I also have a tunze 3155 from mid 2011 that stopped working. The controller fails to indicate low water or turn on the pump. I know the pump works caused I replaced in a few months ago and tested it with a 9v battery. The controller beeps and shows when the water level is high. I think its related to the optic sensor you mentioned from 2011 that had production issues. Will this be covered under warranty and can I send in for repair? Thanks.