Oh Humongous I am so sorry. Uff. He/she had been with you a long time. I don't know what to suggest. The booster I added brought my dosage up to 9 spoons for 125 gallons, roughly. Fish seem ok. It seems awful but right now I'm still planning to run this for the full 72 days that a cyst might take to hatch, before pulling it out.
Very Large Tank, now with ich
- Thread starter Humongous
- Start date
Hey Joel,
Yeah it totally sucks! It was the first fish my stepdaughter had ever seen. She's now 17 but still feels sad about the loss as do I. I think I will add a 50% of normal dose back to the system and keep an eye on them. Hopefully it will keep everything in check with no ill effects. I can't stand to lose anymore fish! My imperator, powder brown, and ocellaris are 11 years old as well.
Chris
Yeah it totally sucks! It was the first fish my stepdaughter had ever seen. She's now 17 but still feels sad about the loss as do I. I think I will add a 50% of normal dose back to the system and keep an eye on them. Hopefully it will keep everything in check with no ill effects. I can't stand to lose anymore fish! My imperator, powder brown, and ocellaris are 11 years old as well.
Chris
ThRoewer
New member
I would let the skimmer run, turn the light on full force and filter over carbon for a day and then re-dose full force.
I'm always very weary of any treatment that requires me to turn off the skimmer. It does more than just remove waste products - it also regulates to quite some extent the gas exchange (CO2 out, O2 in) of the tank water.
I'm always very weary of any treatment that requires me to turn off the skimmer. It does more than just remove waste products - it also regulates to quite some extent the gas exchange (CO2 out, O2 in) of the tank water.
I was leaning towards this idea last night, but was waiting for some feedback from others. Honestly I used to use copper (cupramine) and never had any issues with fish during treatment. My experience with CP so far is that it's so easy on the fish that I will only use CP or TTM from now on.
Hi Paul, I think it was the case. I bought him about the size of a quarter. Just glad he had a long life. He was always right up to the glass whenever I walked in to the room. I feel bad because his buddy, the other hippo has been going by his cave looking for him.
I lost another fish tonight and I hVe no idea why. It was a female blue jaw trigger that was perfectly healthy, probably 2 years old.nshe was out swimming today and looked completely normal. Then a couple hours later she's dead. I'm thinking of terminating the treatment tomorrow morning as I can not determine the reason for these losses. My remaining blue hippo has been hidden for a couple of days now and refuses to come out.
I lost an Anthias yesterday. At least I have not seen her so presumed dead. All fish skittish and Melanarus hiding some. I think I'll do a water change and not redose to lower the concentration. But it has been 29 days w temp between 78.5 and 79.2. It's the DT w rock and sand. Anyone want to hazard a guess on odds that there are live cysts left if I remove the ick shield entirely?
I won't take that bet. Watch them and see what happens. If it does come back then you can reload before you put the corals back in your system.
I might as well restock the fish I have lost seeing as I now have the worlds largest QT tank
I just wish I knew what was happening, it was working so well.
I might as well restock the fish I have lost seeing as I now have the worlds largest QT tank
I just wish I knew what was happening, it was working so well.
I have suspended my use of the NLS ick shield powder. I was not able to make it for the 21 days as recommended due to sudden fish losses. I have lost two adult regal tangs, adult female blue jaw trigger, bicolor angel all in the past 4 days. I'm not telling anyone to stop there treatments, just relaying my experiences. All water parameters are spot on. The dead fish look perfectly healthy.
At this point I am looking for any and all suggestions. In 15 years I have never lost fish on a scale like this using any quarantine protocol. I have a call in to NLS but guys and gals, I'm getting desperate now. Fish list is down too these, not actual counts on smaller fish.
Imperator angel
Moorish idols x2
Powder blue tang
Powder Brown tang
Vlamingi tang
Kole tang
Sailfin tang
Yellow tangs x3
Rusty angel
Flagfin angel
Engineer gobies
Clowns x7
Anthrax x 15
Chromis x 20
Blue jaw trigger
Atlantic blue tang
I know I have missed some.
Imperator angel
Moorish idols x2
Powder blue tang
Powder Brown tang
Vlamingi tang
Kole tang
Sailfin tang
Yellow tangs x3
Rusty angel
Flagfin angel
Engineer gobies
Clowns x7
Anthrax x 15
Chromis x 20
Blue jaw trigger
Atlantic blue tang
I know I have missed some.
@ Humongous -- Ohhhhh that's just awful. I don't have anything to add. I'm sorry.
I can report that after a week since I did a water change and upped the concentration of IS with a booster dose my fish seem more normal again. For nearly a week they were very skittish, reclusive, with my melanarus disappearing for over a day which is not like it at all. But I don't have fish as sensitive as yours.
Kole
Yellow Coris
PJ Cardinal
Resplendant Anthias or Lyretail (Lighting sucks so I can't tell which I have left)
Melanarus
Midas Blenny
Losses
Hitchii Anthias
Resplendant or Lyretail Anthias
I can report that after a week since I did a water change and upped the concentration of IS with a booster dose my fish seem more normal again. For nearly a week they were very skittish, reclusive, with my melanarus disappearing for over a day which is not like it at all. But I don't have fish as sensitive as yours.
Kole
Yellow Coris
PJ Cardinal
Resplendant Anthias or Lyretail (Lighting sucks so I can't tell which I have left)
Melanarus
Midas Blenny
Losses
Hitchii Anthias
Resplendant or Lyretail Anthias
Reviving this thread due to my Ick issue.. Looking for advise. I Qt last night my fish and lost 2 ;( really upset because the eggs fell off so I thought fish would get better but it was to late. So Now I have to re-scape the rock I had to dismantle to remove the fish.. I will put it all back with the inverts and let it sit for 8 weeks while fish in QT recover.
Should I remove the sand? I mean forever? Or should I remove the sand and get new and let inverts and coral hang out till fish are ready and 8eeks have passed?
I like to look of the sand and I think the nass snails do to but maybe I'm better off with no sand? Opinions greatly appreciated..
Oh, tank 29gl QT 20l and I am considering a 60g all in one by Nuvo. Should I start that up and get ready for fish after the finish qt?
Should I remove the sand? I mean forever? Or should I remove the sand and get new and let inverts and coral hang out till fish are ready and 8eeks have passed?
I like to look of the sand and I think the nass snails do to but maybe I'm better off with no sand? Opinions greatly appreciated..
Oh, tank 29gl QT 20l and I am considering a 60g all in one by Nuvo. Should I start that up and get ready for fish after the finish qt?
Update:
Lost my remaining Anthias. It looked good one day, eyes bugged out with grey around them the next and disappeared within an hour after I saw the eye infection.
Other fish shy and skittish. Melanarus going to bed early again. No other outward signs such as fairy dust or flashing. Appetites are low.
The coral in QT is hanging on, though declining. This is obviously because my coral QT is inadequate as everything was growing like crazy, reproducing in some cases, before they were pulled for the Ick Shield treatment. Oddly the trachy is expanded something tremendous. Low current and lower light I guess. The vermetid worms are flourishing. This has the unexpected benefit of their tubes being longer so before these pieces are returned to the DT, if ever, it will be easier to spot them and smash prior to reintroduction.
Right now I see no alternative but to stay the course but if I had it to do again I think capturing as many fish as possible and if necessary partitioning my little 10 gallon QT tanks might have been a better choice.
Lost my remaining Anthias. It looked good one day, eyes bugged out with grey around them the next and disappeared within an hour after I saw the eye infection.
Other fish shy and skittish. Melanarus going to bed early again. No other outward signs such as fairy dust or flashing. Appetites are low.
The coral in QT is hanging on, though declining. This is obviously because my coral QT is inadequate as everything was growing like crazy, reproducing in some cases, before they were pulled for the Ick Shield treatment. Oddly the trachy is expanded something tremendous. Low current and lower light I guess. The vermetid worms are flourishing. This has the unexpected benefit of their tubes being longer so before these pieces are returned to the DT, if ever, it will be easier to spot them and smash prior to reintroduction.
Right now I see no alternative but to stay the course but if I had it to do again I think capturing as many fish as possible and if necessary partitioning my little 10 gallon QT tanks might have been a better choice.
Update on Ick Shield in DT use.
March 8, 6 spoons for about 110 gallons actual H2O
March 15 most everything in the tank other than fish and hermit crab is dead
March 28, 12 g water change, .75 spoon IS for replacement PLUS 2.25 spoon IS Booster Shot
April 11, 15 g water change NO additional IS
May 2, starting to see some red patches on glass, possible bacterial.
Between 15 and 20 days of treatment I lost all three of my anthias. While it was hard on them the 2 PJ Cardinals, Kole Tang, Midas Blenny, Yellow Coris and Hoeven's Wrasses have made it through. Current fish behavior is fairly close to normal, shy relative to when treatment started, but no flashing and while visibility is impaired there do not appear to be any visible ick spots.
Tomorrow, May 24, is 7 full weeks. I have not cleaned the glass or hardly touched the interior of the tank since starting treatment.
SO! May 24 will be a 30 gallon water change, cleaning of the tank, and I will be putting the skimmer, carbon and Phosban back on line.
March 8, 6 spoons for about 110 gallons actual H2O
March 15 most everything in the tank other than fish and hermit crab is dead
March 28, 12 g water change, .75 spoon IS for replacement PLUS 2.25 spoon IS Booster Shot
April 11, 15 g water change NO additional IS
May 2, starting to see some red patches on glass, possible bacterial.
Between 15 and 20 days of treatment I lost all three of my anthias. While it was hard on them the 2 PJ Cardinals, Kole Tang, Midas Blenny, Yellow Coris and Hoeven's Wrasses have made it through. Current fish behavior is fairly close to normal, shy relative to when treatment started, but no flashing and while visibility is impaired there do not appear to be any visible ick spots.
Tomorrow, May 24, is 7 full weeks. I have not cleaned the glass or hardly touched the interior of the tank since starting treatment.
SO! May 24 will be a 30 gallon water change, cleaning of the tank, and I will be putting the skimmer, carbon and Phosban back on line.
Last update this thread.
After several weeks with no Ick Shield in DT my yellow coris and midas blenny are flashing. My assumption is that the Ick is back. I will now endeavor to use the better validated TTM, switching back my corals from QT and hoping that the remaining fish don't kill each other while in 10g TTM tanks.
This has been a lesson for me. NEVER put anything in a reef tank that hasn't been fully quarantined.
After several weeks with no Ick Shield in DT my yellow coris and midas blenny are flashing. My assumption is that the Ick is back. I will now endeavor to use the better validated TTM, switching back my corals from QT and hoping that the remaining fish don't kill each other while in 10g TTM tanks.
This has been a lesson for me. NEVER put anything in a reef tank that hasn't been fully quarantined.
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