Wet Skimmate Water Changes?

[waldomas]

I am unfamiliar w/ conductivity probes, and am wondering if the above scenereo is feasible. Are they reliable enough?
I guess you can make the "salinity stabilizer" fill tube small enough to help avoid a catastrophy and still keep up its job.

Anyone have a setup like this?

Anyone monitor w/ a conductivity probe?

 

[luther1200]

I think if I raised the level in my skimmer that much I would be skimming pretty much straight water. Is that what you guys mean? I have done it before when I first set it up, it was skimming way to much and overflowed my 1g external reservoir I use. I could definitely get the volume you guys talk about but what is the advantage. At that point isn't it straight water?

 

[nnahler]

So how have your testing parameters changed doing this method of water changes? Any noticeable drops in Nitrates?

 

[mobert]

For me, wet skimming was the only way I was able to lower my nitrates. I am now also wet skimming in my Bio-cube 29 gallon. I drilled the collection cup on the CPR SR3 with a 1/4" line and have it draining to an exterior one gallon container. Since this skimmer sits in the rear section of the tank, wet skimming is accomplished by adding a couple of cups of salt water to the tank, thereby raising the water level. This is great, I pour in clear water and out comes yellow water. It works amazingly well. The wet skimming automatically goes back to regular skimming as the water level goes back down. I am still tweaking the automatic top off of fresh water but this tank doesn't remember the last time it was this clean. The water actually sparkles now.

 

[nnahler]

I think I will have to start experimenting with this method...it has ALWAYS made sense to me, I just have never tried it..Thanks for the info

 

[SWINGRRRR]

This is very interesting, as already stated. I think you can make an AC Pro do the program.
FWP-Fresh water pump
SWP-Salt Water pump
Cond- Conductivity (S.G)
If Cond > 53.0 then FWP ON
If Cond < 52.9 then FWP OFF
If Cond < 53.0 then SWP ON
If Cond < 52.9 then SWP OFF


I’m at work and can’t run it through the simulator, but I think that’s a good program. Maybe someone can check it over for me. I would run the pumps off a double float switch/ relay. This is how I do my ATO now dependant on pH though. Of course you need the most expensive Aqua controller to do any of this.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I know some folks do it, but I generally recommend against "controlling" salinity. If you get an air bubble between the electrodes, or you get deposits of calcium carbonate or algae growths, etc, the conductivity will read falsely low, and you may end up driving the salinity excessively high without even knowing it.

So while I like conductivity to measure salinity, I do not recommend leaving the probe in the water 24/7, nor would I allow automatic adjustments based on the reading.

 

[Elliott]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14679684#post14679684 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Randy Holmes-Farley
I know some folks do it, but I generally recommend against "controlling" salinity. If you get an air bubble between the electrodes, or you get deposits of calcium carbonate or algae growths, etc, the conductivity will read falsely low, and you may end up driving the salinity excessively high without even knowing it.

So while I like conductivity to measure salinity, I do not recommend leaving the probe in the water 24/7, nor would I allow automatic adjustments based on the reading.

I agree, the pinpoint salinity monitor I use is very accurate but I must often play with it when I know it's off, usually way too low, I move the probe a bit to get the correct reading, would not rely on it for controlling pumps, etc.

 

[shovel]

interisting

 

[mobert]

This is what my water going in on the right and out on the left looks like.
I drip the clear water in and it raises the water level in the tank where the CPR SR3 is in the back of my Biocube29 and the waste water drips out into the container on the left. Looks like a pretty good water change to me.

This was done over a 24 hour time period.

 

[shikhyung]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14116313#post14116313 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mobert
replace with 1.022 instead of 1.026
adjust according to tank s.g.

How do you replace the loss water, with an ATO?

 

[mobert]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14804802#post14804802 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by shikhyung
How do you replace the loss water, with an ATO?

Actually, I used to have an ATO on my BioCube29 but I have disconnected it and just drip one of those gallons of water in the tank now and the slight rise in water levels causes the skimmer to drip out the yellowish skimmate. Way easier and more efficient way for me to do a water change. I dilute the salt water going in as needed to maintain proper salinity.

On my big tank now I have a very slow drip of kalk water going in the sump for ATO and my new salt water container tops off with a Kent float valve in the sump to replace water removed by the wet skimming.

 

[vito is hooked]

Just came across this thread yesterday, make's TOTAL sense to me, so I drilled my collection cup this morning. I'm currently doing a 2gal a day manual water change every morning before I,m out the door. It only take's me 5min in between feeding both tank's. I take 2 from the main out, and 2 from the FOWLER out, put the 2 from the main in the FOWLER tank, and 2 gal of NEW water in the main, the other 2 gal from the FOWLER down the drain. I.m Wet Skimming, (started this morning) into a 1gal jug, when this is full I just replace it with New Saltwater. I have a 2gal a day evap and refill with 1gal of R/O and drip 1gal of Kalk every morning. If this work's out like I think, my old water change routine is gone. Does anyone forsee any problems in my future? Thank's. :beachbum:

 

[Elliott]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14806248#post14806248 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mobert
I have a very slow drip of kalk water going in the sump for ATO and my new salt water container tops off with a Kent float valve in the sump to replace water removed by the wet skimming.

I do the same thing

 

[JMBoehling]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14809963#post14809963 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Elliott
I do the same thing

Same here... Exact same setup.. Just check your salinity every week till you get the drip rate dialed in.

I actually replace my salt with 1.030 salinity water, this allows me to drip more Kalk into my reef.

Jim

 

[JMBoehling]

One more thing...

I added a Aqualifter to my Kalk Drip. I have it on a timer, On for 15 minutes, off for 15 minutes... It does this cycle 24 hours a day 7 days a week. I found it difficult to allow gravity to naturally control the drip rate, the more liquid in the bucket the faster the drip and then it would slow down as the bucket emptied.

Just a little tip for others having a similiar problem.

Jim

 

[Elliott]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14810424#post14810424 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by JMBoehling
One more thing...

I added a Aqualifter to my Kalk Drip. I have it on a timer, On for 15 minutes, off for 15 minutes... It does this cycle 24 hours a day 7 days a week. I found it difficult to allow gravity to naturally control the drip rate, the more liquid in the bucket the faster the drip and then it would slow down as the bucket emptied.

Just a little tip for others having a similiar problem.

Jim

I use a dosing pump for the Kalk drip and adjust the rate to dial in salinity

 

[Reefbox]

I setup a wet skimmate water change on my 125 yesterday. Wet skimmate water changes are the way for me here on out.

 

[mobert]

I modified the old picture of my kalk drip system. So what I do is drip kalk only when the tank ph is under 8.3 controlled by a Neptune Systems Aquacontroller II. The kalk water ph is 12.07 with no stirrer or mixer---just the slow drip drip of fresh water direct from my RO unit through the kalk in the canister raises the drip ph to 12.07. The ACII turns off and on the power to two float switches in the sump so either a high tank ph or a high water in the sump would close the solenoid valve and shut off the water through the canister. I have refilled the canister back in January after the picture was taken and the kalk level has only gone down about an inch and a half so I probably won't have to refill again for many months. So very low maintenance. I do now drip directly into the sump and Jim's idea of of raising the salinity of the new salt water and thus allowing more kalk water sounds like something I will try also. Thanks!

I think I will sell my fancy calcium reactor as dripping kalk suffices my tank needs and the reactor hasn't been turned on in over a year.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Assuming that pH of 12.07 is accurate, and it likely is not perfectly accurate at that high of pH, then that limewater is only 34% saturated.