What do you use for a thermometer?

[EllieSuz]

Dave, you should look at the Digital Aquatics homepage for information, but it comes with the controller, a temperature probe and an outlet strip (PC4) that has four outlets on it. So, you can control the temperature and whatever else you wish with the remaining three outlets (I strongly recommend a sump fan). My tank temp never wavers more than 1 1/2 degrees. I have been using the RKL for a couple of years now without a single complaint. As I discovered the advantages of a controller, I've added two more PC4's to regulate moonlights, put powerheads on standby when I feed, time the refugium light, and run a fan on the sump as needed, etc. I can't imagine reefkeeping without a controller now.

 

[Dave VG]

Eileen, gravesj1s thanks for the info good stuff

 

[redrider911]

A glass of ice water is 32*. You can kind of test for accuracy that way. My acjr is 1.5* higher than my $16 digital one from petco.

 

[block head]

floating glass/hydrometer in the sump

 

[Gravesj1s]

A glass of ice water is 32*. You can kind of test for accuracy that way. My acjr is 1.5* higher than my $16 digital one from petco.

FWIW- That is a great thought,but ,I've seen a response from DA (in their forum) where they said,"its calibrated at 77 F ,something about it not reading accurately in 32 degree water.

 

[redrider911]

FWIW- That is a great thought,but ,I've seen a response from DA (in their forum) where they said,"its calibrated at 77 F ,something about it not reading accurately in 32 degree water.

I was thinking about that. 32* is kinda far from the average reading

 

[Gravesj1s]

~Dave.your welcome.Couple things worth mentioning.Also, I found another member in this forum that has the RKL and loaning the Ir gun to this week.

Overall I think its a good controller and my issues with it are with the temp probe.(wire type) Da has released a new probe that looks like a ph probe whitch is supposed to be more accurate than the wire type.

If you decide at any point you want to add a module,(i.e.- Sl1,Sl2, and not interested in ORP go with the SL2.The SL1 doesn't have ground isolation where the Sl2 does.

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

I have a calibrated mercury-filled glass thermometer from other hobbies. I use that to check the accuracy of whatever I'm using for a particular fish tank.

I like the new Eheim Jager heaters because they have a "calibration" feature where the ring marked in degrees F can rotate. So once you know how far it's "off" you can calibrate it by adjusting that ring.

Once my DIY controller is onboard, the temperature will be monitored by composite method. First, I will have at least one DS18S20 (9-bit resolution in degrees C, +/- .5 degrees C accuracy over -10 to 85) sensors. I will also have at least one plain old NTC thermistor, and I'll average the readings, plus sound an alarm if the variance between them gets too high.

 

[Gary Majchrzak]

tip:

tip:

pool thermometers can be used in aquariums.

Obviously, I can't vouch for accuracy of any of these suggestions but a thermometer can probably afford to be a degree or two off.

 

[Gravesj1s]

pool thermometers can be used in aquariums.

Obviously, I can't vouch for accuracy of any of these suggestions but a thermometer can probably afford to be a degree or two off.

~ Gary, I hear ya and agree with you for the most part but ,I think you'd agree a smaller tank relying on a probe with a questionable accuracy could spell trouble.Couple consistient degrees sure ,probably not much to worry about.An aquarist not knowing about the 2 degrees off or so then adding in a fluctuating temp of a couple degrees could mean the difference between 81 f and 85f .

I dont want to come across as taking a cheapshot at DA,I do like the controller alot ,works great ,just passing along what I think another aquarist should be aware of prior to purchase.

FWIW- mine is only a 1-1/2 months in operation.Its gotten worse and started fluctuating from 81-74 ,I have taken the probe completely out of operation and have the newer style probe coming in.I have it graphed and saved to show the inconsistient swings and sudden drops if anyone wants to see them.

 

[tmz]

I have used a ronco controller for several years and it works well. I cross check with some digital coralife thermometers which vary by a point or two. I set the controller at at 77 and the attached heaters at 79. That way if the controller should stick on the heater thermostats should go off at 79. Typically my tanks run at 80 degrees during the day with the heat from the lighting and 77 at night.

In my opinion keeping temps relatively constant and a bit on the low side is a good practice in a closed reef system even though most corals live in the 83 to 86 range per Shimek .
Higher temps increase metabolic rates , oxygen consumption and CO2 production , waste production and consumption of alkalinity,etc.. Oxygen is less soluble at higher temperatures. Ammonia production from decay is lower. Bacterial activity increases at higher temps.
Nightime hypoxia can be a concern in a closed reef system so keeping the temp down some particularly at night is helpful, in my opinion.

 

[Dave VG]

Thanks Tom... man that's some great info. Changes my thinking a little as far as the temps go.

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

~ Gary, I hear ya and agree with you for the most part but ,I think you'd agree a smaller tank relying on a probe with a questionable accuracy could spell trouble.Couple consistient degrees sure ,probably not much to worry about.An aquarist not knowing about the 2 degrees off or so then adding in a fluctuating temp of a couple degrees could mean the difference between 81 f and 85f .

I dont want to come across as taking a cheapshot at DA,I do like the controller alot ,works great ,just passing along what I think another aquarist should be aware of prior to purchase.

FWIW- mine is only a 1-1/2 months in operation.Its gotten worse and started fluctuating from 81-74 ,I have taken the probe completely out of operation and have the newer style probe coming in.I have it graphed and saved to show the inconsistient swings and sudden drops if anyone wants to see them.

You raise the classic argument of accuracy vs. precision, i.e. bias vs. consistency. If you have a problem with either and don't know it, you're in trouble. A known bias is probably easier to deal with than a known lack of consistency though.