What I do to keep fish healthy

Paul B

Premium Member
How I keep fish healthy.

Now these are things "I" do to keep fish healthy, not what I think "you" should do, or what my GrandMother did so these are "My" opinions, "my" practices and methods.
I also submitted a similar thread as this but I had some time and felt like ranting, I am old, give me a break. :sad2:
I read so many posts about diseases, fish disappearing, dying, turning colors etc. and I scratch my head and can't figure out why.
I know many people quarantine, and think they feed well, have fantastic parameters, hand pick their fish, read to them and most of them report that the fish died in a few weeks from one of many malady's.
This should not be. Most of the fish that we normally keep should live at least ten years, and that is a minimum. Even a simple goldfish can live over fifty years, and thats a goldfish. I have no idea how long fish live but I have had a few fish live over 19 years, two as a matter of fact but many of my older fish I gave away or donated to public aquariums.
So I feel there is a problem in the way many people keep fish. If you are interested I will tell you what "I" do to keep fish healthy and spawning.
If you are not interested, you wasted your time and mine by reading this first paragraph.

Keeping fish in perfect health has always been a goal of mine and after killing many fish, I have it down to a science. It does take some work so if you are real lazy, call up the people that wasted their time by reading this so far and do lunch.


I wrote about this many times but we are not fish, we are not like fish, we don't have the same digestive system as a fish and we certainly don't have a fishes immune system which is in some respects, actually better than ours. Why is that?
Well first of all a fish "breathes: water and extracts oxygen through it's gills, (yes we all know that) but the water is actually an extension of the fishes circulatory system. Bet you didn't know that. Whatever is in the water, is in the fish. We breathe air and unless we live in a sewer, the air is cleaner than the water because microbes can't fly and eventually hit the ground. But microbes do swim as do paracites, bacteria, viruses, and probably Paris Hilton's dog.
A fish has evolved to repel most of these microbes. The slime on a fish is one means of protection as are scales. But the main defense of a fish is it's immune system which works great, in the sea. Not so much in a tank. Why is that?

Well this is where the problem comes in and why there are so many posts about diseases. Probably 85% of posts are about sick fish.
Many people feel that if they offer a fish a varied diet, that is the best thing for a fish, right? Wrong.
Fish don't need a varied diet, they need what they were designed to eat and each type of fish needs a different diet. But there is one thing almost all fish need and that is fresh, unprocessed food. Flakes, pellets and many frozen foods don't fit the bill although a fish can live for many years on that food.


But do you want your fish to live, or do you want it to thrive?
There is a big difference. If your fish get, or have ever gotten ich, they are not thriving. If they get fungus, they are not thriving, if they die before ten or twenty years, they are not thriving (that is fish that will live that long, not seahorses, pipefish or many small gobies)
Fish in the sea rarely get sick. In my 40 or so years of diving I can't remember seeing a sick fish. But in tanks a large percentage of them just look lousy and if you ever saw fish in the see you will notice a big difference between them and a fish in a tank.

OK anyway, this is what I do. Every day my fish get some live food. They get live blackworms and new born brine shrimp. The baby brine shrimp is only because I have a lot of smaller fish and gorgonians. New born brine shrimp are very nutritious due to their yock sack, but they only have it for a short while so you need to feed them as soon as they hatch.
I have been using live blackworms for over fifty years and that is how I get my mandarins, bangai cardinals and fireclowns to spawn.
Also every day they get clams and mysis. That is almost the extent of their diet. Clams are much better than shrimp, octopus, scallop or squid because you are feeding the entire animal and the nutrition is in the guts, not the muscle which is all you are feeding with those other foods.
When a fish eats another fish you will notice that they eat the belly and guts first. They know where the nutrition is.
Frozen mysis are good (as a suppliment) but they are mostly shell which has no nutrition because their shell is not calcium like a fish skeleton is.
Clams contain calcium in their guts.
I discovered blackworms for salt water fish in 1972 when I was keeping blue devils which were the only fish available except for domino's.
The fish would live but were always getting ich. After feeding live worms for 3 weeks, one of the 7 blue devils changed to a darker blue and he became a male. The 6 females started to get fat and he started to breed with them. The eggs always hatched, and that was 40 years ago.
I have been using live worms ever since.
If it were not for blackworms I don't think I would stay in this hobby.
Anyway, a spawning fish is a healthy fish as it takes an enormous amount of energy and extra nutrition to develop eggs that could be almost half the fishes weight.
Spawning fish are in the healthiest condition a fish could be in and that is the condition fish in the sea are always in. Spawning fish do not get ich. In my experience anyway. I personally do not have to quarantine and I have no use of a hospital tank because I know my fishes immune system will protect them.
Yes I hear all the time my tank is a time bomb and soon it will get ich and I will lose all my fish. That may be, but I can determine the health of my fish from across the room and I can (but do not) put a fish in my tank with obvious ich and nothing will happen.
DON'T do that, and if you don't have my tank, keep quarantining. It takes years to get to that point and I don't advocate that you change your practices, but wouldn't it be nice if your fish were protected from these things and could live ten or twenty years?
I also have an automatic feeder on the tank which dispenses soft pellets that I add fish oil to. I am big on fish oil (I even take it myself) and feel it is woefully missing in all commercially sold foods as it doesn't store well and goes bad in the presence of oxygen. To me fish oil is one of the most important things and live worms contain oil. I doubt there would be any decent oil in freeze dried foods. When a fish develops eggs, most of those eggs are almost all oil. A fiahes liver could be a quarter of it's weight and it is almost all oil.
Of course the best food for fish is whole fish because they get the oil, calcium and nutrients in the exact proportions that they need, but tiny fresh fish are not sold for fish food which is a shame. I have spoken to "Ocean Nutrition" about this but they don't seem interested.
Again, these are the things "I" do. I didn't say "you" should do them so if you feel differently, don't argue with me. Start your own thread and call it "Paul B doesn't know a worm from Paris Hilton's Dog" or something to that effect because this is only what"I" do. I also run a UG filter but lets not talk about that right now.



I have also put this picture on here numerous times, so If you saw it already, go read a book. I didn't take this picture, my closest friend a ddive partner took it in the Caymans (I think)

To the left of the nurse shark are fish fry. That is the main food of reef fish and they eat them every day. Whole fish, or whole worms are the best thing you could feed fish.

These fry are all over the place in the sea as healthy fish spawn continousely, all year.
Nurse_Shark.jpg
 
Remember, I never said it was easy or that anyone should do this which is why I used a lot of " " " marks around where I said "I" do this or "I" do that. "I" also don't have a need for a quarantine or hospital tank and have not in years. This feeding is very specific and is meant to get fish into breeding condition or the condition that they are in in the sea. They need these foods every day, not once a week or only on holidays.
If fish get sick, die or have paracites, it is always our fault and not the fishes or the LFS, my GrandMother, Miss Hilton etc. It is our fault and I have spent the last 42 years 24/7, day and night learning about this. OK I didn't think about it on tuesdays, Veterans Day, Groundhog day or Easter, but every other day. I also didn't come upon this as I was picking bugs out of my teeth after a particularly fast motorcycle ride through a tropical rain forest. :frog:I have years into this and it is just odd to me that after so many years that people have been in this hobby they still have problems with ich and hair algae. There is no need to have these problems. If my fish don't get ich with all the garbage I add to my tank, no fish should get ich. I have spelled it out many times and I know it works but it does take a little time.
Again, I don't advocate anyone do what I do. I am just reporting on what works for me.
Whenever someone reports that a fish died the first thing everyone asks without exception is what are your parameters. The fish don't care about the parameters and if the rest of your fish are fine, the parameters didn't kill that fish. Chemistry is of course a factor but if you are in this hobby for any length of time I would assume that your parameters are at least condusive to fish life. Corals are less tolorant of parameters than fish and even they don't care that much as I don't even have a test kit.
I know that many people just want their fish to live and look colorful, but I want mine to go to college, to live forever, to laugh at ich and Robin Williams.
This stuff is easy, it is not rocket science, I am just an electrician so if I can keep fish healthy with some stupid worms, so can everyone else.
I am fed up to here (my hand is under my chin) with all these ich posts. Fish should not get ich, quarantine or not. It's like the black plague, people don't get that any more because we learned about rats, fleas etc. 200 years ago we learned how to prevent scurvy by just eating some citrus fruits and maybe Fruit Loops.
I am also aware many people can't get worms and clams. I can't help that as I am only reporting what "I" do and saying that after more than fifty years of fish keeping I have learned that this works. I am sure other people have other ideas of what works and they should post on that.
OK I am finished ranting and I will surf the net looking for pictures of professional cheerleaders. :dance:

Remember, I can't emphisize enough that these are "My" opinions and in no way do I mean other people's ideas are wrong. If I hurt anyone's feelings, you will just have to get over it or post something nasty about me like call me bald or insensitive, crude or uneducated. I can take it. :cool:
Also I don't have the nicest tank on here, I am not the smartest or best looking and other people I am sure have better, smarter fish than I do. It's just a thought.
 
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Not bad for a rant ;). I discovered the black work trick a few years ago with a copper band butterfly that wouldn't eat fake food and got him from thin to tip top shape in just a few weeks. I've got to try the mainly clam diet.

With the gills making the water an extension of the fishes blood system I think it's important to emphasize clean water. Mainly nitrate would be an indicator of this as most fish waste converts to nitrate. Just because fish can withstand nitrate to 1-200ppm doesn't mean they should. Keeping all waste parameters low would obviously help with the fish expelling waste from it's body in any form. Building a system that can remove the waste of feeding twice a day is a very important yet understated topic.
 
I buy the largest clam I can find, they are very cheap, I freeze it alive, then open it (sometimes you need a hammar and knife) Usually I open it a little while it is alive and stick something in the shell so it is easier to open when it is frozen. Then I shave off paper thin slices with a sharp knife.

IMG_1578.jpg
 
I buy the largest clam I can find, they are very cheap, I freeze it alive, then open it (sometimes you need a hammar and knife) Usually I open it a little while it is alive and stick something in the shell so it is easier to open when it is frozen. Then I shave off paper thin slices with a sharp knife.

IMG_1578.jpg

Thanks for the tip! I tried to chop up fresh clams a few weeks ago and it turned into a slimy mess.
 
I do things differently but have had long term success with fish. Many of my fish have lived for 10+ years.......more difficult species like some BF's and Anthias were in the 5-6 year range.

My current stock--

Purple Tang-- will be 21 in April
Muelleri Butterfly-- 9 years
Nigripes clown-- 3 years

1. Food--

I feed fresh frozen shrimp, scallops, mussels and clam to the BF but all the fish will get some everyday. I have fed fresh seafood to my fish for over 20 years. Whole fish was never feed nor blackworms or fish oil.

I also use Frozen Formula One and Two & flake for many years. If every fish could get by with the fresh seafood that's all I would use.

The tang has been eating NLS pellets for 90% of his diet over the last 6 years, but he's so fast he gets a bit of everything in the tank.

There are a lot of good food products out now, so it's no where near the problem it was back then.

2. I QT all new fish......that's all that needs to be said. Do it right and it works the way it's supposed to.

3. I don't overcrowd fish.

4. I focus on eliminating any stress. Incompatible tankmates are avoided and I don't take chances. I try to avoid combining fish that are going to compete for the same food source or territory they do in the wild.

I never buy on a whim. Every tank mate is planned, researched, and picked at the right time.

5. I follow a strict maintenance regime and stick to it. For example, I've done 10% water changes weekly for 20+ years. I've always kept the systems simple.......... just an oversized skimmer for export. Occasional carbon is used passively more so for for light penetration and the corals.

Remember that the number one killer of fish is the hobbist himself. Be patient, follow the rules, and the fish will live a long time.
 
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Where do you get black worms?

Here in NY I can get them in most pet shops.

Big E, thanks for posting. It is true that fish will live for many years on pellets, flakes and shrimp as we all know and most of us do. As you also feed mussel and clam, those are whole foods and as you know a very good thing to feed.
And that is all we have to feed if we just want our fish to live a long happy life.
I like mine to spawn and not have to worry about quarantining so I have to feed a few extra things. I could not quarantine if I wanted to because in my tank I add mud, bacteria, NSW, fish and inverts from the sea many times during the year. I could not quarantine these things because I want the bacteria, pods etc that comes with this stuff.
I realize I am in the vast minority with this but that is what this thread is for. What "I" do to keep my fish healthy and spawning.
Fish in my tank also live quite a while with one clownfish is now 19 his mate is maybe 10 or 12 and virtually all the breeding gobies lived over 10 years and even the hermit crabs died at 12 years old.
It seems that captive fish will live almost forever if we can feed them correctly and your tank seems very healthy as do your fish.

I have fed fresh seafood to my fish for over 20 years.
You feed much the same as I do except for worms. Worms are just one part of their diet but as you have found with your tank, they can be left out. In my experience it they allow the fish to spawn more easily and I want any fish I have to spawn because I know if they are spawning, they have to be very healthy. I feel worms are an important part but also realize many people can't get them. I also don't feed whole fish as that is just messy. In the summer I sometimes collect tiny live fish and throw them in there but that doesn't happen too often.:wavehand:
 
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Hi Paul,

I've had percs, maroons, and clarkis spawn. The anthias did the mating dances quite often at dusk, but I never bothered to see if eggs were being produced.

As far as QT goes...........I don't care what is fed, if you bring in a BF that has velvet or clowns that have Brook it will wipe out the tank. Mandarins or gobies might survive but thats about it.

Ask any public aquariums if they just put fish in their displays before doing a strict QT process............I think we all know the anwser.

There will always be a debate about QT and it's been beat to death over the years, so no need to re-hash all that..........I wouldn't add any fish without doing it.

I have nothing against worms, but I don't think they are anything special except using them as a live food to get new arrivals to eat. Live brine worked in this way too for me many times.
 
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This is a great thread I jus found... I would also love to start feeding black worms... Very I formative with some great ideas... I have always wanted to keep a copper band BUtterfly but never have becuase of their reputation as not surviving long... May I ask a question here on your thread?? Do you guys think if I was able to feed one clams and black worms regularly that they would do better than the reputation that they have in my eyes??

Again, great thread and thank you for sharing...
 
I've had percs, maroons, and clarkis spawn. The anthias did the mating dances quite often at dusk, but I never bothered to see if eggs were being produced.

Big E, hello to you. As I said, you have a healthy tank because you know what you are doing. Bit I believe feeding those clams along with the other things you do is very worthwhile and is also contributing to your fish spawning. Most hobbiests never see anything spawn.
As for quarantining, yes I do things differently but as you said, we don't want to start that here.

Palloby, while copperbands are definately more difficult to keep than many fish, I feel that the correct food will go a long way in keeping them alive and healthy. I don't remember how many I have had but as I see in my old photographs from the 70s I was keeping them then along with moorish Idols. Copperbands are easier than Idols but still not an extreamly easy fish. I have dove with them and in the sea, they eat worms. Definately different worms than blackworms, but worms just the same and that is what I have always fed mine. They also get clams and mysis but definately worms every day. Of course other people will report that they will live without worms and that is most likely true, but if I see a fish eating a certain food in the sea, I try to match that as close as possable because I feel there is something in that food that they need.
I have also dove with moorish Idols and I never say them eat anything besides sponge. I located a sponge here in NY that they love and my last one lived five years on that sponge. I killed him in an accident so I am not sure how long he would have lived but five years with a moorish Idol is practically a record.

I took this in Bora Bora

tahiti.jpg


This course is in my tank

IMG_1336-1.jpg


I also hatch and feed my fish new born brine shrimp every day. This is more for the smaller pipefish and it keeps my mandarins spawning but the copperband loves them also as this video shows.

 
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i think im going to try these blackworms you speak off... thanks for the great post

edit.... and the clams, frozen that is. i dont want a smelly mess
 
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I buy the largest clam I can find, they are very cheap, I freeze it alive, then open it (sometimes you need a hammar and knife) Usually I open it a little while it is alive and stick something in the shell so it is easier to open when it is frozen. Then I shave off paper thin slices with a sharp knife.

How long do you freeze it for? Are these the same clams that the meat / fish dept has at a grocery store?
 
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