Who wants a cheap, simple, Arduino-based LED controller?

That's only to convert a 5VDC PWM signal to 0-10VDC so a controller can control something like an LED driver. It does not control and AC motor. I looked at a few options and none of them seem cheap and easy.
 
FYI the 90deg pin headers on the second BoM are 6-conductor despite the data sheet claiming they were 12(there was a bit of confusion).. I got my mouser order today and had two of them, noticed they were not what I thought I was ordering.
 
Anyone know if 652-3362U-1-103LF would be an OK replacement for 652-3362M-1-103?

652-3362M-1-103 has a minimum order of 50.
652-3362M-1-103LF can be ordered one at a time, but is not expected in until 12/8.

652-3362U-1-103LF is the same specs and same pin alignment and spacing, but with the trim on top instead of the side. Looking at the board I don't see that there should be any issue.

And it's in stock...

(these are the part numbers on mouser, btw)
 
This looks correct: 72-T70XW-10K

You probably want side adjust due to the LCD sitting above these parts. This should adjust contrast for the LCD IIRC so it would seem important to be able to access it with the LCD on the unit.
 
does anyone have an idea on what to call / what to search on for some female wire connectors that would fit onto the PWM outputs..

Im envisioning the connectors that are typically on the wires run from the front panels of computer cases to the headers on the motherboard.
 
XSiVE said:
does anyone have an idea on what to call / what to search on for some female wire connectors that would fit onto the PWM outputs..

Im envisioning the connectors that are typically on the wires run from the front panels of computer cases to the headers on the motherboard.
Click to expand...

Do you mean the connectors in the board?

ed23c996.jpg

Those? square pin .1" female connector. Also called "header connectors"
 
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I bought all the headers I used from Modern Device. They typically have good prices on bootloaded AVRs and LCDs so you can order all that stuff from them at the same time. I generally buy stuff like pin headers from "hobby" electronics sources (Modern Device, Seedstudio, sparkfun, etc) rather than places like Mouser or Digikey.

The connectors can be any female .1" "header connector" style part. Check your local R/C hobby shop - many R/C electronics use .1" connectors that would work.
 
Thanks guys. Those are what I was thinking of, I was ready to tear into some old computer cases to get them when I realized I had recycled all of my old ones recently :lol:

DWZM! I totally forgot about these being used in RC. Now that I think of it, I probably have some extras from old radio->servo connections :D
 
Most servo plugs are 3-conductor so they would work but wouldn't be an "exact" fit. Many systems used a 2-conductor .1" connector for batteries, so they would work, too. Some R/C connectors are "polarized" with a little tab meant to key into a slot on the mating connector but you can shave it off with a knife if it gets in the way.

Also, this is off topic and really subtle but I feel it's important to mention in this thread. The 10v circuit switches on the "ground" side of the connector, so the "ground" pins ARE NOT TRUE GROUND - they're switched between floating and ground. So, don't try to use those pins for other ground connections to the circuit, and don't connect the "DIM-" lead from a meanwell to other ground pins on the device. OTOH, the 5v circuit is switched on the 5v pins, so the ground pins on that portion of the output header ARE true grounds.

If this is confusing, ignore it. This info will only come in to play if you try to use the device in a non-standard manner.
 
der_wille_zur_macht said:
Also, this is off topic and really subtle but I feel it's important to mention in this thread. The 10v circuit switches on the "ground" side of the connector, so the "ground" pins ARE NOT TRUE GROUND - they're switched between floating and ground. So, don't try to use those pins for other ground connections to the circuit, and don't connect the "DIM-" lead from a meanwell to other ground pins on the device. OTOH, the 5v circuit is switched on the 5v pins, so the ground pins on that portion of the output header ARE true grounds.

If this is confusing, ignore it. This info will only come in to play if you try to use the device in a non-standard manner.
Click to expand...

I noticed that when I was looking at the board/schematic but after I asked myself "what does this mean to me?" I decided it meant nothing since I would not be using them as grounds.

Looking at it again I now see what you did, since the atmega runs on 5v and outputs 5v, the positive on the 5v pwm pins is switched directly from the atmega, whereas the gnd on the 10v is switched via the same signal, just paralleled through the transistors. neat!
 
So Im playing with this, I found some bugs with the logic for the clock with AM/PM around the 12's so I converted it to a 24 hour clock both in the main display and the setup menus.. I could have figured out exactly what was going on but I prefer 24 hour anyway ;)

I also found a bug in the idea of extending lighting hours beyond the ideas of a single 24 hour day, say you want your lights to start at 1pm and go to 1am, not exactly possible in the default setup screens. I will work on this and post up the new routines.
 
XSiVE said:
So Im playing with this, I found some bugs with the logic for the clock with AM/PM around the 12's so I converted it to a 24 hour clock both in the main display and the setup menus.. I could have figured out exactly what was going on but I prefer 24 hour anyway ;)

I also found a bug in the idea of extending lighting hours beyond the ideas of a single 24 hour day, say you want your lights to start at 1pm and go to 1am, not exactly possible in the default setup screens. I will work on this and post up the new routines.
Click to expand...

Yeah, what I did was change the time to 2 hours earlier to still have the lights on after 12am

Also a manual setting could be nice. Lets say you just want to turn on the lights at a random hour

Also when entering new values it will go to the main screen interrupting what you were doing.

Still a NICE controller and makes the job very well. I love it
 
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