Who wants a cheap, simple, Arduino-based LED controller?

I'll go through mouser tomorrow when I have some time and make a list of in-stock suitable parts for you.

There are a few easy subs like voltage regulator or possibly buttons(so long as they have a similar footprint) if they have the same conductor locations, Im a little concerned about substituting the RTC since it has memory and needs to be addressable.
 
That would be so cool of you. I'm sure I can put it together but I have no clue how to peice it together. I love all these forum only if people in the real world where so nice and helpful thanks everyone
 
Digi-key carries the DS1307. I had to order from them again a couple days ago when I got parts for more hydras. You may end up having to order from more than one place. When you stock 10,000+ of a single part, how can you be out of stock for 24 weeks? You'd think their stocking programs would be able to anticipate these things.
 
Im trying to find a replacement for the part-U8 LM7805ACT unsuccessfully, the main difference thats keeping me from replacing it is that the defined U8 has a 2.2A output max, the only replacement I can find is a 1A max output, Im a little concerned since the whole board except for the 10v outputs is driven by the 5v source =/
 
Haha, that would be interesting, though my comment was directed at the DS1307.

Here is the edited BOM reef2.5. Everything highlighted in green is in stock and shows where to get it. Looks like you will need to do a mouser, digikey, and moderndevice order.

Also, on the standoffs, it's up to you. I found this part: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GAEpiMZZMtzcnMBgC2bs167s5krybXJApWj4FG%2bs7o=

Looks like a good way to mount the LCD, but the description and the datasheet are conflicting as far as the mounting hole diameter. Datasheet appears to show a proper diameter in the diagram, mouser lists a smaller diameter. You may want to get on live chat and ask about it. Also verify the hole size on the board, I was just guessing...

EDIT: Actually going back over this post: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=17768279&postcount=168
It looks like you may need to use a regular standoff 10mm long that takes and M2.5 screw. 8 screws, 4 standoffs.
 

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Im trying to find a replacement for the part-U8 LM7805ACT unsuccessfully, the main difference thats keeping me from replacing it is that the defined U8 has a 2.2A output max, the only replacement I can find is a 1A max output, Im a little concerned since the whole board except for the 10v outputs is driven by the 5v source =/

You can use the 512-LM7805CT. Listed at 1A but the datasheet says it is 2.2A as well. The difference between the ACT and the CT is that the ACT back plate is electrically isolated, which doesn't really matter in this application.
 
Thanks for the updated BoM, I was just finishing one up when you posted this but I used yours to be sure I got it right too :)

You'll want to take a look at P/N 538-22-28-4301 that you put in for the pin headers though, since its minimum order is 1220 ;)

I'm ordering a batch of boards, if anyone wants one or two at cost let me know and I'll mail them.
 
Thanks for the updated BoM, I was just finishing one up when you posted this but I used yours to be sure I got it right too :)

You'll want to take a look at P/N 538-22-28-4301 that you put in for the pin headers though, since its minimum order is 1220 ;)

I'm ordering a batch of boards, if anyone wants one or two at cost let me know and I'll mail them.

Ill take one but just to be sure what I'm talking about is the typhon board???

And also I found this lcd is this what I want to get thanks
http://shop.moderndevice.com/products/16-x-2-lcd-and-assembled-lcd117
 
Digi-key carries the DS1307. I had to order from them again a couple days ago when I got parts for more hydras. You may end up having to order from more than one place. When you stock 10,000+ of a single part, how can you be out of stock for 24 weeks? You'd think their stocking programs would be able to anticipate these things.

Found one part for the CAT4101 board that's backordered on mouser with an estimated ship date of 10/4/2011. :hmm5:
 
Wow, that's crazy. I guess I bought the last 10 they had yesterday. :p

Here's a replacement: 660-RK73H2BLTD7680F

Everyone needs a little lead in their capacitors, and it's $0.01 cheaper anyway. :celeb1:
 
Wow, that's crazy. I guess I bought the last 10 they had yesterday. :p

Here's a replacement: 660-RK73H2BLTD7680F

Everyone needs a little lead in their capacitors, and it's $0.01 cheaper anyway. :celeb1:

lol yeah who needs all that silly RoHS compliance stuff! :hmm4:

argh, i dont know how Im going to contain myself waiting for these boards from china.. dwzm has a complete model for me (tho hes a bit tied up these days no big deal) but I think Im more excited about building one now!... besides, having two or more just means more fun, right?
 
Wow, that's crazy. I guess I bought the last 10 they had yesterday. :p

Here's a replacement: 660-RK73H2BLTD7680F

Everyone needs a little lead in their capacitors, and it's $0.01 cheaper anyway. :celeb1:
Yup...that's the one I ordered.

I placed orders yesterday with mouser, future electronics, digikey, modern device, seeed studio and batchpcb. Still need to place orders with cutter and heatsinkusa.

:spin2:
 
Random question of the day: Has anyone considered applying the Arduino-based LED controllers for use with the Koralia controllable powerheads? It seems like it would be directly applicable and could save lots of money... Maybe there was already a whole discussion on this and I missed it?
 
Random question of the day: Has anyone considered applying the Arduino-based LED controllers for use with the Koralia controllable powerheads? It seems like it would be directly applicable and could save lots of money... Maybe there was already a whole discussion on this and I missed it?

do you have info on the signal requirements of those? I thought they were 12v, so we'd need to at least replace the first voltage regulator.
 
So I've been. Digging over the weekend and came up with a couple questions. So my lighting is only two buckpucks one white one blue so that's only two PWM pins right so my question is do I have room to controll a temp sensor on the heatsink that signals the fan to turn on at the set temp. And for planning reasons does any one know the finished dimensions of the unit when all done and complete. Thanks for all the help
 
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