Who wants a cheap, simple, Arduino-based LED controller?

b16drag said:
Read through the entire thing and solder up a unit already.

Kind of a stupid question but how do I get the program on to the chip? Right now when I plug in the power nothing lights up on the LCD.

Do I need to get one of the arduino duemilanove units also? Or do I need one of the breakout boards? Any help is appreciated, thanks!
Click to expand...

You need an FTDI Cable/board. This guide applies to the Typhon same way it does for the "Arduino Pro Mini":
http://www.arduino.cc/en/Guide/ArduinoProMini
 
I'm having a weird behavior with my typhon. After more than 6 months or so using it I'm noticing that sometimes it just kicks in the channel of whites. It stays on for a few seconds, maybe minutes and then turn of. Right now it is doing a crazy storm light even after the timer shut off the lights 30 mins ago. I disconnected the Typhon to check if it had to do something with drivers but it doesn't react the same.

Decided to change the white channel from 2nd to 3rd channel and still does the same. At first, the channel was set automatically to 100% and I couldn't get it to dim even when the controller was at 0% for that channel. That also makes me think its something with the White's driver cause it behaves the same even in another channel but then again, if I unplug the controller it won't flicker or anything.

I wonder how many times a day or for how long does this happen when I'm not home. That may affect the inhabitants since there could easily be more than 12 or 14 hours total with this issue. Any ideas why is this happening or how to solve the problem?

Nothing has changed since I updated the firmware with the revised version a few months back. It worked wonders till now. Is it possible that it just deprogram itself like that?

Thanks
 
Reprogram it and see what happens. It is possible, but unlikely. Need to figure out the cause of the behavior then maybe we can figure out the why.
 
I'll try that. Just to rule out that it is a faulty driver I changed the blues from channel 1 to 2 and 3 and still does the same. Right now is wired Blues to channel 1 and Whites to channel 4. So far I'm not seeing anything strange
 
I don't have my arduino up yet. So I am not real familiar with the tools available. Is there serial port or anything you can dump to every time there is an intensity change? This would rule out a code issue. Maybe record and display the max and min with a reset through the menu?

Is it easy to swap the RB driver to the white strings and vice versa see what the problem follows.

Hope I am helping :)
 
sammy113 said:
... Is it possible that it just deprogram itself like that?

Thanks
Click to expand...

IME, yes. I have lots of electronics in my office and have had a few issues with interference, especially with an RFID reader. However, I don't have my Hydra inside a project box, it is mounted up on top of a project box, and is located next to wires and devices. I am thinking of putting it insides a metal enclosure to see if the interference goes away.
 
Alrighty then,
I've read the whole thread twice now and I was really fired up until I figured out that the usb-bub + cable to program with shipping it would be as much as the entire build or more.
Is there someone out there that is building the things that would sell them?
I realize the software would be the current version and not easily upgraded.
 
TFox if by 'cable' you mean FTDI cable, then you don't need both. You need either the cable or the usb-bub with a standard mini USB cable, which I'll be very surprised if you don't already have from a different device at home.

You can, however send your AVR to someone to program it. It should be a couple of bucks worth of stamps.

I think building these and selling them would be against the rules of RC and possibly against the license of the project.
 
terahz said:
TFox if by 'cable' you mean FTDI cable, then you don't need both. You need either the cable or the usb-bub with a standard mini USB cable, which I'll be very surprised if you don't already have from a different device at home.

You can, however send your AVR to someone to program it. It should be a couple of bucks worth of stamps.

Thank you for clarification on the cable/bub thing.
Building for profit is probably against RC's rules...
However, if the design for the build is an open architecture design, meaning freely open to the public; Windows PCs are the pinnacle example of how that is legal.
This whole build is exciting, as is most projects in the reef community, I will continue with the build.
Thanks
Click to expand...
 
Welcome. Chances are you'll get hooked into micros so you'll use that cable or board again :)

Regarding the license, I've not really followed this project, so I'm not sure what the license is for it, but if it is like the Hydra controller (CC BY-NC-SA 3.0), then no, you can't use it for commercial purposes.
 
Hi,
Has anyone got a built controller or a spare board for sale ? please PM me :)

This is just what I been looking for ages to drive my meanwell p's.

Cheers.
 
Need some assistance finding pin headers for Typhon build.

I recently purchased 2x Typhon boards from a RC member and looking to order the remaining parts for build. Following typhon_bomALT-2.xls posted earlier in the thread, mouser has everything in stock, except for 512-BC546ABU ( Bipolar Small Signal NPN 65V 100mA HFE/220) and pin headers (652-3362M-1-103 & 538-22-28-4301). I'm curious if anyone can offer sub. for the above part numbers?

I am also curious about the DC jack, as Mouser has several similar options but looking at datasheet seems the pins are layed out different, am I correct in thinking so? Or is there a mouser option?

Thanks in advance as searching this thread is someone difficult.
 
power jack

power jack

TBR 701- try this one: 163-7620-E

It works for me. My controller was running fine up until I went to modify my reference voltage wires and solder them directly to the board... pretty sure i fried two of my transistors and stupid me didn't order extras. I'm pretty sure we can order basically any other transistor as long as it meets the voltage/amp specs we need, at least according to this website: http://users.tpg.com.au/users/ldbutler/TransisVoltAmp.htm

the voltage is supposedly determined by the load resistance and emitter current.

Let me know what you replace yours with. I'll try to remember to do the same.
 
Is it correct that this controller doesnt support the "standard" arduino shields? I think thats a pity... I know that this design is supposed to be simple and cheap but some additional holes for some optional shield headers would add virtually no cost. The shield headers could be mounted on the backside if the pin layout is inverted. Is this possible (for me or someone else) to add this to the design, or is any of the critical "shield-pins" already occupied for other use on the Typhon board?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

R
DIY AI-coded ESP32 based aquarium controller
Replies
0
Views
307
ronnyking
R
B
Question on Mean Well 3-1 dimming
Replies
15
Views
183
bmichaelb
B
C
Seeking Help with AquaticLife Pulse LED Fixture - Need Universal Controller/Timer Advice
Replies
5
Views
480
Vinny Kreyling
Vinny Kreyling
J
LED fixture lighting help (replacing old T5 HO)
Replies
5
Views
147
griss
griss
S
Sump at Same Level as DT
Replies
9
Views
90
wvned
wvned
Back
Top