Who wants a cheap, simple, Arduino-based LED controller?

So....newb question on the controller. Would one of these DIY Arduino controllers work reasonably well on a Bio-Cube 29? Or would it be a bit of overkill...

Retro kit is getting installed this week which consists of 10 cool whites, 10 royal blues on separate mean well dimmable drivers and replacement fans. Only reason why I'm asking is because these sound pretty cool to play around with both from a hands on building and coding.

I actually have one of the older Neptune controllers from my previous 100 gallon build from years past. I really loved the features it offered in regards to serial output / data logging, temp and orp measurements, light control, and feeding. This has been a interesting thread and I'm trying to get a handle on a punch list of items necessary, etc :)

Thanks.
 
I actually re-read the whole thread and figured out my question :)

It is a pretty good fit after all for my needs. Now I guess the next question is that some new threads came up about possible new configurations for temp, ph, and other logging I guess.

So are there new board designs to use? I have "a" materials list off the google site but with some of the recent posts not sure where I should start...
 
I actually re-read the whole thread and figured out my question :)

It is a pretty good fit after all for my needs. Now I guess the next question is that some new threads came up about possible new configurations for temp, ph, and other logging I guess.

So are there new board designs to use? I have "a" materials list off the google site but with some of the recent posts not sure where I should start...

Go build what is on the google code site. It is the current release of the typhon hardware and will do everything promised (keep time, fade LEDs on and off, interface with 5v or 10v drivers, etc.) I mentioned a 2.0 of the core hardware above but it probably is a ways off if it happens at all, as the core hardware meets our core requirements.

The add-on I mentioned above with precision ADC (for temp or ph) and a moonlight driver is a separate board that plugs in to the main unit. It does not require any hardware changes to the main board.
 
Thanks! I'll work off the materials list I have first while I figure out the board. Then in the mean time just continue to follow the thread :)

Thanks again.
 
The updated files are on google code.

Major change is bringing the only unused pin on the avr (A3 in Arduino-speak) out to a pin header on the edge of the board. This gives us a totally unused pin for some flexibility down the road for things that would be hard to implement on the I2C or serial buses (i.e. one wire).

I also moved the pwm output headers back a bit from the edge of the board because in my last batch I had a bad board thanks to a short near that area that seemed to be due to the headers being too close to the edge.

None of these changes break compatibility with older hardware so there is no need for code changes or general panic if you have already built a unit.

Also, along with designing the above mentioned hardware expansion board for adc and moonlights, I am taking a page from Arduino standard practice and designing a template for "shields" that will plug in to the I2C header and stack off the back of the board, with holes lined up with the standoff holes on the mainboard so it can all be bolted together. This should allow others to design add-on hardware in a standard format.

And finally, to avoid confusion or conflicts down the road, I am licensing the new version and the add-on hardware I am designing under CC 3.0 BY-SA-NC.
 
Hello this is my Alternativeversion

Minor change: Battery Holder for cr2032

Others change:
The buttons use only one analogic pin,
A pin used for lcd is replaced with one analogic pin

on the top right, the 2x4 connector is for temperature control: gnd, +5v analogic pin, and a digital pwm pin for fan (the second is only digital so only on/off)
 
The code is a mix of your code and mine. I can send the eagle file, and all the code, with moonlight using any of the four channel (new variable for moon light max % on each channel). I just have to clean it before , the project starded on a real arduino nano board and there is a lot of test functions.
I have an i2c 8bit extension (for osmolator) but it's no yet totaly tested
 
I would definitely be interested in seeing the code and design files.

Regarding the typhon - i just checked in another version of the board that also breaks out the Vin on a pin header. This would allow people to use Vin on add-on modules, for instance, or to power a fan or other device without having to hack your nice barrel plug from yoour wall wart.

Following up on O2's post above, is there any large degree of interest in an SMT version that conforms to the same form factor as the current through hole design? The obvious "drawback" is that if you use an smt AVR you need to burn the Arduino bootloader in-system.
 
Hey DWZM,

I was able to find a few vendors on Ebay that sell the Atmega328p-au with the "Opti-boot" bootloader already installed. Since the UNO is the newest design, I've been told that the SMD version of the chip is going to become more readily available to hobbyists with the bootloader pre installed. Just to be safe- I purchased 20 for myself and to share with others.
 
I would definitely be interested in seeing the code and design files.

Regarding the typhon - i just checked in another version of the board that also breaks out the Vin on a pin header. This would allow people to use Vin on add-on modules, for instance, or to power a fan or other device without having to hack your nice barrel plug from yoour wall wart.

Vin output Or a two way terminal connector. Some people don't want to cut the DC power connector if it's size don't match the connector size, and the terminal connector could be used for Vin/Vout .
One Vin for led drivers (i use pt4115), osmolator pump (Windshield-Washer Pump), 12v PC fan on 8gallon tank ;)
 
I have my first honest attempt at an expansion board in a draft stage. It has a single driver on it for moonlight LEDs that is I2C controllable (via digital pot, since that is easier to get ahold of than any reasonable I2C pwm IC). It also has a 4 channel ADC for temperature sensors, pH, etc. The idea is to keep this LED focused so for instance you could put the temp probes in the waser and/or on the heatsink and turn the LEDs off if things got too hot.

The board is 5cm square so it is the same size as the CAT4101 drivers and will be cheap to get from common board houses. There is technically some spare room on the board. Can anyone think of other hardware I might fill that space with?

Oh, and it is all surface mount, but easy packages, with the idea that this is a good first smt project. I would rate it as a similar difficulty as the 4101 drivers.

I can't wait for this add on board to come to life, i'd love the moon lights and temp sensor to turn lights if temp got too high.
I'd live to see a relay of some kind to turn fans on/off

I don't know about the surface mounting though...


Hi!
I registered recently to RC and had been reading a lot about the Typhon and Hydra boards in the last days. I think you have done an excellent job with both projects.
Something that seems easy to link with the Typhon is the relay controller board from the Hydra. It is based on the MCP23008, use I2C comm. and will require no modification to the current pcb. This would open many possibilities for the Typhon, controlling fans, T5/MH lamps, pumps, etc. A simple sketch integrating this to the Typhon timer functions would be great as a start.

That would be great, controlling fans that run when the lights are on would be awesome to have in this controller. This would solve my last problem with full implementation of this board into my hood of red sea max 130 and i could ditch stock timer that controls fans and moon lights!

Awaiting eagerly to see the results. And if anyone happens to have an extra add-on board i'd love one :)
 
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Hello there is the modified code and board for typhon with temperature & moon.

I added some comments but the code is not cleaned yet, and there is some part not translated. I use it since more than a month and the light/moon works well. Driver used: pt4115.

For the pcb: if i have to do a new board in the future, I think 4 resistor on the normal +5v pwm for protection is something to add.
 
Hello there is the modified code and board for typhon with temperature & moon.

I added some comments but the code is not cleaned yet, and there is some part not translated. I use it since more than a month and the light/moon works well. Driver used: pt4115.

For the pcb: if i have to do a new board in the future, I think 4 resistor on the normal +5v pwm for protection is something to add.


sorry, you have gerber files to print this sheet?
you could send me the zip file?
thanks ...
 
I can't wait for this add on board to come to life, i'd love the moon lights and temp sensor to turn lights if temp got too high.
I'd live to see a relay of some kind to turn fans on/off

I don't know about the surface mounting though...

The prototype pcbs shipped last week so they should be in my grubby hands any day now. Don't be worried about SMT. It definitely takes a different technique but I actually find it to be easier and more desireable once you are used to it.

As far as relays, the Hydra project includes a relay pcb based on the mcp23008 I2C chip so it would integrate well with the Typhon. You would have to write your own code though, unless we roll it in to the core firmware eventually, but the code is out there for the Hydra project so it would basically be a cut and paste type of effort.
 
Megablue,

I see the top right board is for a relay.....what is the top left board for?
Hello there is the modified code and board for typhon with temperature & moon.

I added some comments but the code is not cleaned yet, and there is some part not translated. I use it since more than a month and the light/moon works well. Driver used: pt4115.

For the pcb: if i have to do a new board in the future, I think 4 resistor on the normal +5v pwm for protection is something to add.
 
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