Worm's 180 build

It will be in a 75g tank.

I am thinking of doing a U design. As my overflow (enter) will be on the same side as my pump (out).

This will feed both a 120 (above the sump) and a 180 (5 feet away). I will utilize a single pump to keep the same amount of gph, with a gate valve on each side (120/180) to allow tuning the flow to each. I think I need to upgrade my pump.

I need to drill my 120, I already have the overflow box.
 
I have a U shaped sump on one tank, running a BeanAnimal @ 3000 GPH on a ~35g DIY acrylic sump. It's a little small but it actually does the job just perfectly. I am going to replace it with one that has a built in ATO, higher capacity, and eurobracing. It was my very first acrylic build...not worried about it, just realized that i can make it better now, 2+ yrs later.

I love designing sumps. Post a sketch of what you have in mind
 
I have been reading thru your forum..Very impressive! I have also watched some of your video's you have posted. One that has caught my eye is your skimmer in operation / cleaning. You have a very THICK skim you are collecting. My skimmer is a euro reef 250 and I don't see anything like this at all. Matter of fact its very watery not (thick). Very dark greenish brown. Guess I'm not sure if it's good or bad. My nitrates / phoshates are at zero.
Your thoughts? Bad or good?

Also your thoughts on the ATS system you have? Is this something you would recommend? I don't have a any major algae issues. What drives this type of equipment for a reef tank?

Thanks for your input!
 
That is a good thing. At times I feed heavy, so this will produce more waste.

I have mine set to a level where it is very thick and will sometimes adhere to the sides/neck of the collection cup.

That last video I posted had about 1/4 to 1/2 thick skim on the walls of the neck. Not normal for most skimmers/systems. While I do set it slightly higher, that is my normal flow/collection/cleanout in my skimmer.

Can you tune it down a bit to let the bubbles concentrate the skim some more. That will make it thicker. You may have to raise it slightly in the sump, if it is an insump skimmer.

You can use lego's or lighting egg crate to raise it.

Mine has an adjustment gate for outflow. So I keep it tuned. I only have to fine tune it once every two weeks or so.
 
worm5406 said:
That is a good thing. At times I feed heavy, so this will produce more waste.

I have mine set to a level where it is very thick and will sometimes adhere to the sides/neck of the collection cup.

That last video I posted had about 1/4 to 1/2 thick skim on the walls of the neck. Not normal for most skimmers/systems. While I do set it slightly higher, that is my normal flow/collection/cleanout in my skimmer.

Can you tune it down a bit to let the bubbles concentrate the skim some more. That will make it thicker. You may have to raise it slightly in the sump, if it is an insump skimmer.

You can use lego's or lighting egg crate to raise it.

Mine has an adjustment gate for outflow. So I keep it tuned. I only have to fine tune it once every two weeks or so.
Click to expand...

My skimmer is in the sump rasied 2". I do have a gate valve which allows me to control my water level inside the skimmer. It's water level is currently just at the neck before the taper / bottle neck area. If I push the water level any higher then I take a chance of water coming out the top of it. I guess at this point I'm not 100% confident the skimmer is at the correct depth sitting in the sump. Or maybe it's right where it need to be and I have nothing to skim!:dance:
When you say " have it set to a level" are you refering the water level inside the skimmer....or the bubbles producing is thicker? If so how does the bubbles become thicker?
Thanks!
 
Yes... I mean inside the skimmer. Open that valve 1/4 turn (not a lot) that will make the skim dryer/thicker. It will lower the water in the neck a little bit too. If it is wetter/higher you turned it the wrong way. See how the skim does with that for a few days. Check your chemical levels in the tank too, as they may go up if you do that.

As the bubbles get larger they have more protein on them making them stay without popping. If the water level is lower it will make that skim in the cup have less actual water with it. Hense thicker/dryer skimmate.
 
worm5406 said:
Yes... I mean inside the skimmer. Open that valve 1/4 turn (not a lot) that will make the skim dryer/thicker. It will lower the water in the neck a little bit too. If it is wetter/higher you turned it the wrong way. See how the skim does with that for a few days. Check your chemical levels in the tank too, as they may go up if you do that.

As the bubbles get larger they have more protein on them making them stay without popping. If the water level is lower it will make that skim in the cup have less actual water with it. Hense thicker/dryer skimmate.
Click to expand...

Sounds good thanks for info! So does it really matter where the skimmer sits in your sump 2" or just sitting on the bottom of the sump if you can control the water level with the gate valve?
 
bubblewood said:
Sounds good thanks for info! So does it really matter where the skimmer sits in your sump 2" or just sitting on the bottom of the sump if you can control the water level with the gate valve?
Click to expand...

It does. Backpressure and overall flow. Water flows downhill. LOL
 
OK... so... I went to a new (to me) fish store, over in Springfield VA area, and looked around.

Lots of nice coral, sps, lps, fish, and supplies. This is the first place I have ever seen that had LIVE brine shrimp. SO... I got a few thousand.. LOL...

A little selecon and fed them to my fish.

I ended up feeding all to them by the end of the night. It was really neat to see them chase them all over the tank.

The reason I feed all to them was they would not survive the night.

I should really make a 10g tank for them and get some more and breed them. They really liked them. I know there is NO beneficial nutrition except to get some energy, beside putting selecon in with them.
 
Worm, a guy local to me breeds them for that same reason. I have no idea how easy or difficult it is just that he breeds some and his fish love them

Corey
 
biecacka said:
Worm, a guy local to me breeds them for that same reason. I have no idea how easy or difficult it is just that he breeds some and his fish love them
Click to expand...

Yeah I will have to get a primer on it and see.

OK...

Here is my temp for the last 7 days. The red is the heater cutting on and off.

temp.JPG
 
worm5406 said:
...I should really make a 10g tank for them and get some more and breed them. They really liked them. I know there is NO beneficial nutrition except to get some energy, beside putting selecon in with them.
Click to expand...

you don't have to grow them out, the fish and corals will eat them right after they hatch. i run two hatcheries so they hatch and then i can enrich them the second day with rotigrow before feeding them to the tank. the corals and fish go nuts.
 
Newbie Aquarist said:
Am I looking at this wrong because it shows the heaters kicking on but not temp increase.
Click to expand...

I have it set to a .4 degree setpoint. So if you zoom in you can see the blue dots move up and down under the red lines.

The varaince days earlier was just natural heat in the house.

hobogato said:
you don't have to grow them out, the fish and corals will eat them right after they hatch. i run two hatcheries so they hatch and then i can enrich them the second day with rotigrow before feeding them to the tank. the corals and fish go nuts.
Click to expand...

Hummm I will need to look and get some rotifiers. I do not know about growing them except the seamonkey kits we had as kids.

Like how do I know what is eggs vs ones to harvest and all that.
 
no, the rotigrow is a liquid that is algae based and used to grow rotifers. i add it to the day old brine hatchery so they can eat it when they develop mouths. when you turn off the air to the hatchery, the empty cysts float to the top surface and the live brine will congregate in a spot of light from a flashlight. that makes it easy to siphon them out of the hatchery without getting the empty cysts. a 16 ounce can of cysts will last me about a year.
 
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