Worm's 180 build

[worm5406]

I got Apex beta tonight.

 

[worm5406]

A few updates, I am still working on adding the 120 into the plumbing with the 180. Here are a few pictures to see how it looks:

Sand is oolite, fiji pink, and special grade

Working on connections for locline.

Rats wrong size.

Ohh no... Moment of truth. The water is up to the feed, next is the overflow.

Well... that will take an hour, with a thimble.

 

[worm5406]

Hummm I think I made the weir too low... it is supposed to be behind the black edge trim right?

Yeah.... it is flowing... and I can see in from the glass.

Yeah... it is flowing...

<iframe width="960" height="720" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/MfTxXTMguwo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[1fishkeeper]

Oh great after hearing that video I had to go pee. Is it that loud or was the mic picking up a lot more noise then what there is?

 

[worm5406]

It was my cell and it was right over it. LOL...

It is not that noisy. Wait.. I have to pee now too.

 

[RJT]

Tanks look good. How many radians on top of 120? Are you getting more tonga rock? Any eta on haddonni?

The weir is a little low, it should of went all the up to the bottom of tank frame but that's minor. The tank looks great.

Have you tested tanks to see what happens if power goes off? What skimmer are you running?

 

[worm5406]

Tanks look good. How many radians on top of 120? Are you getting more tonga rock? Any eta on haddonni?

The weir is a little low, it should of went all the up to the bottom of tank frame but that's minor. The tank looks great.

Have you tested tanks to see what happens if power goes off? What skimmer are you running?

OK.. so...

Thanks

There are 2 radions above the 120, well there will be, right now they are over the QT tank.

I am going to get about 30lb of the 'reefrock' tonga branch style. I think I like this brand.

Not a haddoni.. looking for a GIG. I have that red haddoni now in the front of the 180.

Power failure results in a perfect flow and still room for more water.

Here come the part I need help on.

I want to do something like this where I can raise the weir with a new internal one that not only blocks the old one but creates a new one higher.

Or should I lower my water, take out the existing weir box and place it correctly, keeping heat and flow in the 120, as there is now live sand rock and copepods in it. For X days as the silicone cures.

Thoughts ideas?

 

[Newbie Aquarist]

I like the adjustable weir idea. You should go with that.

 

[worm5406]

Me too... but I do not have the acrylic, Yeah I can buy it, but I need to do three sides... And make a plastic thumb screw to hold it tight.

I think I can.. I think I can..

 

[worm5406]

Well with the new addition of the 120 and the 75 sump my surface area has increase so has my water loss.

Over each 2 hours my ato runs for about 20 minutes each time on a 5.5 ml dosing pump.

When it hits an hour I am going to have to look at using something larger than a 5.5 ml dosing pump as the flow will be too slow:

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Tom Aqua Lifter. I use them, they are great, 3.5 gallons/hour (that's 220ml/min) I use in conjunction with autotopoff's 2-float with the run-dry switch adder.

 

[worm5406]

Yeah.... I will have to do something like that. I have an avast ATO float right now, and once I get the 200g RO storage in place then I will have to run it together.

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Better have more than a few level redundancies there! Might be bad to accidentally top off with all of that hehe

 

[worm5406]

Yeah I have a float that I was using. I replaced it with the avast. I was thinking of putting it at the top side of the sump incase it over flows... BUT then I was worried about it filling to much as it would over flow.. so I might use it in two spots....

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

I would simply have your level control float and at least 2 backup high-level cut-off floats so that your sump water level never exceeds your maximum operation level that corresponds with no-overflow on power off. That way if you have a float failure you would then have to have both high-level cutoffs fail before the water level in the sump got above the point that would result in a sump overflow if the power then dropped out.

you might add in an alarm float or alert also. Or one that is at the level of the cutoff switches (or tied to them) and another that is a bit higher and much more attention getting.

 

[worm5406]

Funny that you say that...


I have been working on the 120 addition. I knew in my head that I needed to drill syphon breaks. I have been running it for a few days after I installed the lockline...

I... humm... did a long power failure after talking to you last night... Well... I was 1/4 inch from overflowing. I wondered why.. I had measured and measured over and over. I look up to think and looked over at the 120. The water was BELOW the overflow... Well that is good.. WHAT!!!??!! Below??? Where is the leak... < < BING > > in the sump.


LOL

So yeah... I moved them up.

Even though I had the one way union in there... what is to stop it from flowing into the skimmer (thorugh it's feed) and then into the sump, just as if it the pump was on... While it DID NOT go backward through the pump... it still filled the sump up quick.

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

I'm confused as to how the sump was leaking? Or was it the overflow box that was letting water in through the joints and then through the bulkheads, which is why the water level was lower than the teeth?

 

[worm5406]

The locline 1" feed was back feeding into the manifold, which while it had a flapper union, was feeding a different port off the manifold and pretending like it was being fed, it happen to be the skimmer that was still being fed water.

SO...

120 -> reverse through the feed -> manifold -> feed TO skimmer -> ou of skimmer to sump.

 

[worm5406]

Do you think this could be heater failure?

I do not remember the amps going this high each time the heater kicks in. you can see the temp rise at the same time so I am sure it is the heater.

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Have you checked the specs on the heater? I would say that is definitely it. Don't you also have multiple heaters?

(6.7 - 1.7 = 5.0) amps * 120V = 600W on the money so that would be 3x 200W heaters