Worm's 180 build

OK I hope this helps some of you to understand how the OSC statement for a ALK affects pH.

Look at this graph:
phvsalk.JPG


The OSC statement for the 1.1ml dosing pump:

OSC 000:00/001:33/088:27 Then ON


As you can see the alk dosing need to be bumped up just a bit to keep the pH stable instead of going down slightly. (alk is going down a bit too.. LOL)

New statement:

OSC 000:00/001:53/088:07 Then ON

Yup increased it 20 seconds per dose on a 90m cycle.

I will give it a few days and see what it does.

That is why looking at your graphs over a 7 day time span will really show you trends. Looking at one day or even two will not show you clearly where things are going.

Take some of your graphs and look at them in 7 day and see how they influence each other, espc. temp vs pH.
 
How much does that dosing regimen raise the alkalinity in the tank? Could always use the doser for kalk, no? I've been doing small hourly doses ( a few ml ) of kalwasser during night cycles and keeping the ph pretty stable. That's when you get the drop.
 
Yeah... you do.
That keeps the range for alk right about 11 but it has been slipping down to 9.5 this am over about a week.

I have not set up my calcium doser, but that is next. I am going to need it REAL soon, with a purchase I just did over the weekend.
 
My overflows both have 1 pipe above waterline approx. At the top of the weir which are the dry emerg. The siphons are cut halfway up the overflow and are turned down using 2 90° elbows to prevent a vortech.

The gate valves make it extremely easier to adjust the full siphon sense you can adjust smoothly within a fraction. Standard ball valves can get stiff or sticky and turn more than you need and be frustrating.
 
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Sorry I was trying to make an animated gif... but I needed 5 images. so I just posted the first and the 4th of the series of the red haddoni eating.
 
Is that panorama on steroids. I had to connect another screen just to see the rest of it.
HAHA... At least it is not the 12,000 wide version.


Are those aptasia anemones growing on the front glass at the lower right?

They are the same green ones on the back glass on the right side of the frag rack. And the same ones in the bottom left corner by the haddoni, on the sand bed.
 
SO I worked on my sump today:


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Water flow is left to right.... I am missing one piece of glass above the third baffle. It will be on tomorrow.

If you follow the water it goes under, over, through (hard to explain) then into the large refugium section, then over and finally under to the pump(s).

The second to the last baffle controls the height for the refugium section. the last baffle is only in the event that the pump is off I do not want anything floating over the baffles and into the pump area directly.

The gap between each baffle is roughly 2 inches.

This is the same setup I had my previous sump. It also included a cutout (third baffle) to allow the water to enter the refugium UNDER the water level.

Baffle # 1 2 and 5 are 15.5 tall
# 3 is 10.5 and 4.5 (4.5 is not on yet.)
#4 is 13.5

#1 is 2 inches off the bottom
#5 is 1.5 off the bottom

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This is the first three baffles, last glass marked but not in when pictures was taken)

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Last two baffles, the pumps will set to the right.
 
I am putting this here as a note to my self and to illicit other opinions and ideas.

Thought I would document this and encourage questions/comments/suggestions.

I'm working on setting up an automated water change at 1% per day (for me about 2 gallons)

Ref: I'm referencing "Water Changes in Reef Aquaria" by Randy Holmes-Farley see link here http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-10/rhf/

Since my display tank is not on an exterior wall I've laid 3 lines of 1/4" tubing from my garage to my display tank thru the attic (each run is about 35 feet)

Two of these lines go up to the top of my canopy (one carries ATO and the other carries the fresh saltwater).​
The 3rd line goes to my sump and will be the suction line for old DT water.​

The continuous water change will be implemented using a double-head Stenner pump (100DM4 model). It has an adjustable output of up to 35gal/day/head. I'll be running this thru my apex and figured I would stagger it 6 times a day for 14 min/run.

Here are some pics
This is the double head Stenner pump..

Top head is freshwater from barrel to the top of the canopy

bottom head is old water pulled from tank and then sent to a drain pipe in my attic

doublepump_zps1a8280d9.jpg
 
I like the idea :) It's good for small daily water changes. It takes 20 minutes to change 1g. I do 2/day, programmed from the Apex. Have the ATO shut off when this is running. The levels are spot on for drain and fill. I ordered this pump with 3/8" lines. They come with 1/4" or 3/8".

It's a little noisy, but I don't hear it since it's in the fish room.

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It drains to the sink in the fish room.

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If you need to do a larger water change, you're not using this pump. Need a T off of the return pump for that.

"¦"¦"¦"¦"¦"¦"¦"¦"¦"¦"¦"¦"¦"¦"¦"¦"¦"¦"¦"¦"¦"¦"¦"¦"¦...
 
I was posting in the new to the hobby section and I figured I would post it here too:


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The old 120 in Sep 2012

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Aug 2012

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Jan 2015 (the start of the move to the 180)

I have a bunch more in between here... but I figured I would stop for now, plus I have met my 10 picture limit.


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Dec 13, 2013

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Apr 30, 2013

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Jan 7 2014


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Sep 2012


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Feb 2013

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Dec 2013



6th pic down monti eating nudis?
 
That is correct. I orig took that picture to get a confirmation on what it was, a few seconds after taking it I took it out of the tank and... well... disposed of it.

Then I was looking for pictures of coral growth under led... All I have had was LED so I came across that one and posted it with the other one showing the growth.
 
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