(2) Fully controllable 100w Leds on the Cheap.

eznet2u

Active member
Anyone who knows me, thinks I'm cheap. I prefer the term Frugal. :)

I just finished ordering all of the needed supplies, except for the Lenses and the Lens holders. (Question about that later)

(2) 100w 20000k SMD Leds. - $64.00 for both, and free shipping. (I had to Email Seller and ask for 20000k. He has them. Just doesn't show them. Also asked for discount...Got $6 off for buying 2.)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280863191147
(2) Cooler Master GeminII S524 CPU heatsinks. $29.99 ea. (I chose these on the recommendation from another thread. I like the fact that there isn't any Copper showing.)
http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master...92&sr=8-1&keywords=Cooler+Master+GeminII+S524
(2)Mean Well HLG-100H-36B - $64.94 ea. (The B model allows for 3 way control. 1-10v, Resistance, PWM.)
http://store.bravoelectro.com/advan...HLG-100H-36B&search_in_description=1&x=10&y=9
(1)Arctic Silver 5 Paste. $6.80 ea. (I didn't want to use screws. They are just something else to rust.)
http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver...ysynthetic+Silver+Thermal+Compound+Paste+3.5g

Yes. I could have cut corners.
Yes. There are cheaper Heatsinks that would have worked just fine.
Yes. I could have gotten the $24 Ebay drivers.
Yes. Screws would have been cheaper.
Yes. I have 30 year old T-shirts. (They're comfortable. Let's leave them out of this...)

There is a difference in Cheap and Frugal. Cheap is all about price. Frugal is all about Price/Value. (There is a reason those T-shirt have lasted that long.)
These are the best prices I could find, for the parts I wanted. That is the definition of Frugal.

So far this build has cost me a grand total of $243.07 for (2) Fully controllable 100w Leds.

Now, I can hear some of you Mathematicians saying, "Hold on there pardner...", because all Mathematicians talk like that in my head... "Hold on there pardner...That doesn't add up."
Well that is where the Cheap part of me comes into play. You see, if you sign up for an Amazon credit card...They give you a $30 gift certificate that can be used right away. So I did...and then they did.
:celeb1:<---- Cheap me.
Because it was over $25 I also got free shipping on the Heatsinks and Arctic Silver.
The LEDs come with Free shipping.
The Mean wells did not. I paid $10.57 for shipping.

$10.57 for Shipping on all of this, is something I can live with.

Now, the question...What size Lens holder/Lenses to get? There are several different sizes that claim they are for the 100w LEDs.
Which one do I get? and what is the cheapest price?

Anyone care to help?

As soon as I get the parts, I will also turn this into a pictorial Step by Step tutorial.

Now we wait...:hmm3:










I hate waiting. :(
 
My mistake. I had to go back to the invoice and make sure I didn't order the grease.
I looked at the grease before deciding to go with the adhesive.
I have looked at so many places/products, I forgot what I ordered.
Good catch Trevenator. :wave:http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/member.php?u=35709

I actually order the [FONT=verdana,arial,helvetica][SIZE=-1]"Arctic Alumina, Ceramic Thermal Adhesive, 5g". It was $7.99.
Here's the link - [/SIZE][/FONT]http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Alumina-Ceramic-Thermal-Adhesive/dp/B001O7ARUQ

[FONT=verdana,arial,helvetica][SIZE=-1]Total should be - $244.26


[/SIZE][/FONT]
 
And now that I see the price your link is...I am disappointed in Amazon. They didn't show me that when I searched. :(



3 Bucks, is 3 bucks...
 
For the lenses, I highly recommend the 82mm lens+base. You can get it off ebay by searching for "82mm lens base" or similar, might even throw in 100w on the search. Only one guy has them, but they are definately worth it. Much better than the other 100w lenses.

There is another possibility too. I bought some of the 20w lenses from ac-rc just in case I wanted them on my moonlights. (turns out I don't). However, they fit the 100w bases he also sells. You might be able to ask him for a 100w base and one of the 20w lenses. They are much more shallow than the high profile 100w lenses he sells.

I see you used alot of the same components I did. Glad I could help, hope you are happy with them. I'm very happy with the meanwells. I do recommend mounting them on standoffs or a pile of washers though, as they do get *really* hot. Maybe they deserve a fan, dunno.
 
For the lenses, I highly recommend the 82mm lens+base. You can get it off ebay by searching for "82mm lens base" or similar, might even throw in 100w on the search. Only one guy has them, but they are definately worth it. Much better than the other 100w lenses.
I'll try looking there...Thanks for the advice.

There is another possibility too. I bought some of the 20w lenses from ac-rc just in case I wanted them on my moonlights. (turns out I don't). However, they fit the 100w bases he also sells. You might be able to ask him for a 100w base and one of the 20w lenses. They are much more shallow than the high profile 100w lenses he sells.
Same spread, but a shallower lens?
I see you used alot of the same components I did. Glad I could help, hope you are happy with them. I'm very happy with the meanwells. I do recommend mounting them on standoffs or a pile of washers though, as they do get *really* hot. Maybe they deserve a fan, dunno.
I picked through a couple of threads to get the parts list, and to finalize my design. I looked around at Lowe's today, and put together, what I think will look good and be functional.
 
I received the MeanWells and the Heatsinks today. Picked up the materials to Lap the Heatsinks.
Just waiting on the LEDs. In the meantime I will Lap the Heatsinks.
 
How does using 2 high power LEDs work out over the surface area of the tank? What is the effective useful surface area this can accommodate?
 
You can cover a circle of about 2.5-3 ft in diameter with one 100w LED+lens. The power is incredible, I actually have to turn mine down, even over a 3ft deep tank. You may need to get some smaller ones with tight lenses to cover the corners though.
 
There are a few good articles online about them. Apparently it has some kind of thin liquid in it, like alcohol, that condenses and evaporates inside the tube. The tubes are completely sealed however.
 
Well, it took 3 hours of Lapping and Polishing, but now the Heatsinks look like little copper mirrors.
Depending on who you listen to, it either makes no difference or up to 60F degrees difference.
I decided that it couldn't hurt, and that it might make a big difference. My arm is sore.

BEFORE:

100_9565.jpg


DURING: (You can see the concave nature of the Heatsink very well. This would keep the middle of the Heatsink off the LED, not allowing for complete heat transfer.)

100_9568.jpg


AFTER:

100_9571.jpg


If nothing else, it fed my OCD...Now just have to wait on the LEDs and do that all over again with them.
 
Check these out for drivers...requires a mosfet,resistor and transistor (about 6 dollars) to actually control output but it sure is cheap and has the same specs as the expensive meanwell.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Kod...3890?pt=US_Power_Supplies&hash=item2572496a32

and the schematic to go with it

http://www.instructables.com/id/Cir...tep6/The-new-stuff-Constant-Current-Source-1/
I'm sorry...but they cannot even come close to the performance of the Meanwells. Yes, they have their application, but not in this project.


Remember, being Frugal does not mean the cheapest route sometimes. :thumbsup:
 
I am looking forward to seeing how this turns out, please post pictures... I have started collecting parts to do the same thing...
 
isnt the ceramic adhesive a thermal insulator? i am pretty sure you wanted the arctic silver thermal adhesive it is listed at 12 dollars and change..

for my 2watters i used arctic alumina adhesive, but for the big boys you have i am sure the silver is a better route...just make sure the ceramic isnt going to insulate the die from the heatsink...
 
Back
Top