2 Part VS Calcium Reactor for SPS tank

[sirreal63]

A poorly set up CaRx has the potential to give poor results. This is true with dosers as well. Fortunately this hobby has progressed to the point where we have a good idea of the best and easiest way to set up a reactor, we know which components typically fail and which ones don't. I won't say I would never go back to two (3) part dosing but my CaRx is rock solid and requires nothing more than regular maintenance. I am currently dripping kalk while waiting for my tank demands to justify putting the reactor back online. Any one who has had a catastrophic failure with their tank while using a CaRx did not have it set up properly.

 

[Nathan4Wvu]

I have been holding back for some time now on spending the roughly $500 to put a reactor on my 120 gallon reef. The tank has been setup around a year now and I have been running a Kalk reactor and using 2 part hand dosing to keep calc and alk in balance. Tuesday, I dropped the greenbacks and ordered the Super Reef Octopus setup.

I feel like using an APEX will help to eliminate all the issues people are having with "NUKING" the tank. I ordered a PM1 module for the extra PH probe since I'm currently running a APEX lite. (Also, the PM1 gives me an extra temp port which is going to be bad a*s for keeping my water change tank the same temp as my display!)

The redundant safety features in the APEX really takes the worrying out of running any piece of equipment. I have the widget on my droid and get texts if anything goes wrong. It really is the best $500.00 I have spent on my tank.

My plan and I would like some advice on this if anyone is doing anything like it. I plan on running two pumps in my top off reservoir. They will be connected to the float switches in the sump through the APEX.
I’m going to program it so that if the PH of the tank is say 8.18 or above the pump not connected to the Kalk reactor will top off the tank.
Then, if the PH of the tank drops below 8.18 the pump connected to the Kalk reactor will top the tank off.


Any thoughts?

 

[oscar.millan]

Could you describe how these events happened?

The failure I witness personally was due to a solenoid valve malfunction. An aquarium controller could have saved this tank. Quality components, meticulous setup.

While I agree that proper design is critical in being successful with a CaRX, failure can and does happen with well designed systems, albeit, much less frequently.

I also agree that most failures happen as a result of user error (not knowing how to properly setup), cheap equipment (solenoid valve and check valves), etc.

Bottom line, CaRX are amazing if done right, but if anything can fail, it will fail. To add Murphys Law, the room for error on such devices is small and I would caution new comers to buddy up with someone who knows what they are doing like I did when I first started to looking. His advice and experience saved me a ton of time and perhaps indirectly saved my tank.

 

[110galreef]

Ok, so Lets say I do switch to CaRx....

I seem to be leaning towards a dual chmaber setup.
The MRC ones seem nice. Which size? I have an APEX. What extra stuff do I need. Valves, what size CO2, etc....

Also give the quality stuff but keep price to an extent inmind. I dont want toover spend if not necassary....

 

[power boat jim]

I have been holding back for some time now on spending the roughly $500 to put a reactor on my 120 gallon reef. The tank has been setup around a year now and I have been running a Kalk reactor and using 2 part hand dosing to keep calc and alk in balance. Tuesday, I dropped the greenbacks and ordered the Super Reef Octopus setup.

I feel like using an APEX will help to eliminate all the issues people are having with "NUKING" the tank. I ordered a PM1 module for the extra PH probe since I'm currently running a APEX lite. (Also, the PM1 gives me an extra temp port which is going to be bad a*s for keeping my water change tank the same temp as my display!)

The redundant safety features in the APEX really takes the worrying out of running any piece of equipment. I have the widget on my droid and get texts if anything goes wrong. It really is the best $500.00 I have spent on my tank.

My plan and I would like some advice on this if anyone is doing anything like it. I plan on running two pumps in my top off reservoir. They will be connected to the float switches in the sump through the APEX.
I'm going to program it so that if the PH of the tank is say 8.18 or above the pump not connected to the Kalk reactor will top off the tank.
Then, if the PH of the tank drops below 8.18 the pump connected to the Kalk reactor will top the tank off.


Any thoughts?

Since Im a simpleton this set up sounds like it could potentially cause more problems then it solves. Why not just let the kalk drip in (as I do) for your make up water? Let the effluent from the reactor flow through a second container of media an old gallon jug or whetever you like befor it runs back into the tank. This way the pH comes up a bit before it enters the main system. It also gives you a bit more bang for your buck since it dissolves a bit more media before it hits the tank.

I have been running the same reactor for 9 years and though I understand people have ruined their tank with them . It had to take some doing. The selonid has to have power to stay open, in power outage it shuts. Also the pump that feeds the reactor should go off in a failure ,no water in none out. The regulator is mechanical it has to be turned to change the pressure to the needle valve. The needle valve is a fixed opening, unless you open or close it it cant change.

I would not make the kalk control the pH since pH probes are the easist things to have go out of whack. One false reading and its could be over for your tank. Heck when my MH ballst comes on over the sump it causes my pH meter to read less the 5 all the time. Its just my 2 cents I understand folks like to use the best tech available. Im just not one!!

 

[REEF SMAC]

If I ever run a Calcium Reactor it will be with a Ph probe and controller. It's not difficult to setup and it gives me peace of mind regardless of how unlikely the event may be.

I like having a controller on my tank regardless of whether or not I am running a CA RX. I also like, as a bonus, the fact that my controller is connected to moniter my PH and will shut off my CO2 if my PH for some reason gets too low. It is a nice feature to have. Yes I agree it helps give a little piece of mind but I don't feel that I have enough faith in my controller and especially it's PH probe that I would depend on it to be the only thing keeping my tank from death if it doesn't work. I would never run my CO2 rate so high through my CA RX that I would have to depend on anything to keep it from killing my tank. Keeping your PH within a certain range that you feel is optimal for your animals is one thing but using a controller to prevent death is another.
My controller never shuts off my CO2 day or night. I does when I push feeding mode, not necessary but I like to use it as a visual that the solenoid still works.

Although, I have to disagree that it's "incredibly unlikely." I have heard of 3 such events and witness one personally.

The original discussion was about a regulator "malfunctioning and nuking your tank".
If a regulator malfunctioning was NOT highly unlikely I don't think SCUBA diving would be a popular as it is today.

Result, nuked tank every time.

Not saying that there are plenty of ways to nuke your tank and yes, an improperly set up CA RX would add to the long list of ways to nuke your tank.
A properly set up one is going to be the least of your worries.

I'm a big fan of kalk reactors or kalk in your ato.

I am as well.

Along with running a CA RX at the same time.

Plenty of examples out there (probably more) of reefers who have nuked their tanks with kalk BTW.

So in 5 years my system method for maintaining cal/alk is Seachem's (Reef complete, Reef calcium, & reef carbonate).



I have heard about 2 part supplements but I am not sure if the current method i am using would work with 2 parts

You are using 2 part.

You have just added it to your make up water. Making it easier and more fool proof for your tank sitters. Putting your Reef complete, Reef calcium & reef carbonate in with dosing pumps would be the same thing.

A poorly set up CaRx has the potential to give poor results. This is true with dosers as well. Fortunately this hobby has progressed to the point where we have a good idea of the best and easiest way to set up a reactor, we know which components typically fail and which ones don't. I won't say I would never go back to two (3) part dosing but my CaRx is rock solid and requires nothing more than regular maintenance. I am currently dripping kalk while waiting for my tank demands to justify putting the reactor back online. Any one who has had a catastrophic failure with their tank while using a CaRx did not have it set up properly.

Man you always say it best.

I feel like using an APEX will help to eliminate all the issues people are having with "NUKING" the tank.

It will never eliminate all the issues but it can help.

The redundant safety features in the APEX really takes the worrying out of running any piece of equipment. I have the widget on my droid and get texts if anything goes wrong. It really is the best $500.00 I have spent on my tank.

Worth every penny. I agree.

My plan and I would like some advice on this if anyone is doing anything like it. I plan on running two pumps in my top off reservoir. They will be connected to the float switches in the sump through the APEX.
I'm going to program it so that if the PH of the tank is say 8.18 or above the pump not connected to the Kalk reactor will top off the tank.
Then, if the PH of the tank drops below 8.18 the pump connected to the Kalk reactor will top the tank off.


Any thoughts?

I don't really like the sound of pumps, float switches, and kalk all tied together anyway. Make sure you have plenty of fail safes.

I hope you are talking dosing pump at least.
I would never want to have enough water on the up side of that kalk to nuke your tank in case it doesn't shut off for some reason.
A third, higher, float switch to shut off power to your ATO pumps if the others failed
The problem I see with your PH scheme is that your tank will be all topped off completely during the day with fresh water.
It won't need any water at night (less evap at night) when your PH is low enough to add kalk.

The failure I witness personally was due to a solenoid valve malfunction. An aquarium controller could have saved this tank. Quality components, meticulous setup.

Sorry but this statement doesn't make any sense. ^^^



What was this solenoid valve for, and what was it supposed to be doing anyway?
How did this solenoid "fail" if it wasn't even connected to a controller?

Sorry to hear about this but it sounds like this reefer is the one who FAILED.

While I agree that proper design is critical in being successful with a CaRX, failure can and does happen with well designed systems, albeit, much less frequently.

I also agree that most failures happen as a result of user error (not knowing how to properly setup), cheap equipment (solenoid valve and check valves), etc.

Bottom line, CaRX are amazing if done right, but if anything can fail, it will fail. To add Murphys Law, the room for error on such devices is small and I would caution new comers to buddy up with someone who knows what they are doing like I did when I first started to looking. His advice and experience saved me a ton of time and perhaps indirectly saved my tank.

I agree.

I would add that in the case with soleniod valves and check valves that it is a matter of when they will fail, not if. One should never solely rely on these devices for anything crucial to the life of their animals (or flooding the floor.) IMHO. There should to be some other kind of failsafe here.

Ok, so Lets say I do switch to CaRx....

I seem to be leaning towards a dual chmaber setup.
The MRC ones seem nice. Which size? I have an APEX. What extra stuff do I need. Valves, what size CO2, etc....

Also give the quality stuff but keep price to an extent inmind. I dont want toover spend if not necassary....

Had to look them up. I'm only looking at the pictures.

Is it really downflow? Looks like it from the picture anyway.
I personally don't like the down flow just because the foam pads eventually get clogged up. It's too much like a sandfilter without a way to backwash it.

Where is the bubble counter? You have to get your own? Cause you will need one.

How do you get the lid off that thing to refill it? Looks like a task. I could be wrong. I don't understand how just having one union in that PVC line somehow makes that lid removable. It looks like you would have to unthread it off the pump a little to remove the lid. Is that true? Looks like a potential leak everytime you take off the lid. Is there place to refill it without taking off the lid?

You will need some kind of supply feed to it. Either a tee off of your main return pump, a tee off another pump in your system, or its own dedicated pump. Small powerhead works fine. Does not need a lot of flow.

You will need a CO2 bottle. Depending on how much room you have where you are going to place it and how long you want to go between change outs determines size. People sell the 20# bottles cheap all the time used. They are very common with the soda industry.
A 10# will probably last you almost a year with your system. Not mandatory but I prefer to have two bottles. One to use, the other full ready to change out when I need it. That way I don't have to rush out and fill the same one. They for some reason never go empty at a convenient time.

You will need a pressure regulator, connected to a needle valve, connected to a solenoid. The regulator and needle valve you will use to set your bubble rate. The solenoid will be operated on and off with one outlet on your APEX.

I would highly recommend the Aquarium Plants Doser instead of the classic regulator/needle valve combo if you can afford it. It doesn't cost that much more money. It is the same regulator but instead of a needle valve it has a really easy, precise, electronic adjustment. It is an electronic bubble counter basically. You plug this CO2 doser into your APEX the same as you would the standard solenoid. This thing is really nice. I've had mine a year now and love it so far.

 

[REEF SMAC]

what about the po4 that is added to the system with a CR? that's a negative for reactors.

No not really. It is such a minuscule amount.

More like grasping for another excuse not to use one really.

We constanly throw in tons of PO4 into our systems to feed our animals and then we're really going blame our PO4 woes on our CA RX?

There are plenty of tanks out there NOT using CA RXs with PO4 issues as well as plenty of tanks that ARE using CA RXs that don't have PO4 issues.

Yah, go ahead and add another $5 to my yearly total for that extra GFO I have to use.

 

[toothman]

I personally prefer dosing. Both methods have downfalls. Dosing adds extra chloride into the system from cacl. This in turn requires more water changes, as not to have extra cl in your system. Ca reactors add extra co2 to your tank fueling algae and lowering ph. Both methods do not add mg and need to be added usually as mgcl adding more cl again. Adding dolomite to ca reactor has been proven not to boost mg like zeovit mg states. Both methods also need to add trace elements, so that is not a factor.

I also thing either way really works well.

It is really more about stability of the water that is most important. As long as your method is stable your tank will do well.

Dosing for me is easier, I make up a 5 gallon jug of ca, kh and add mg in my top off container it lasts about 2 weeks. I have used a reactor and the bubble counter can be a problem, even with a pinpoint controller. You can also add to much co2 and clog the reactor and turn your media to mush. Or just cause your tank to have a ph more like 8 compared to 8.3.

One of my new thought is not to keep montopora caps, they are real ca kh suckers adding to instability. They really grow too quickly.

I am thinking of either method as cost no object and the health of the tank. I also did not read any of the other posts in this thread, just thought this might help. Did not want to rock any boats.

 

[power boat jim]

.





Is it really downflow? Looks like it from the picture anyway.
I personally don't like the down flow just because the foam pads eventually get clogged up. It's too much like a sandfilter without a way to backwash it.

Where is the bubble counter? You have to get your own? Cause you will need one.





.

I agree on nearly every count but maybe the necessity of a bubble counter. I have learned that it has been the most useless, hard to keep functioning item ever put on a piece of equipment (at least on mine anyway). I found A pH meter was a better way to set up the outflow. I understand that someone who has never used a reactor doesnt know what the best pH outflow for a reactor is. The bubble counter could be a guide for that for as long as it works, but it really tells you nothing of what the actual pH is coming out of the reactor.

I found counting bubbles to be very inconsistant and annoying. I gave up on that and just adjusted the bubble rate to keep a consistant pH of 6.2. Your mileage may vary on what pH works best, since thats what truly determines how fast the media dissolves in the reactor.

 

[sirreal63]

IMO the bubble counter is just a visual aid to show how much CO2 is being injected into the reactor. Since going to the Aquarium Plants box I don't have a bubble counter, the box does that for me.

 

[REEF SMAC]

I personally prefer dosing. Both methods have downfalls. Dosing adds extra chloride into the system from cacl. This in turn requires more water changes, as not to have extra cl in your system.

I read a lot about this extra Cl thing but I have never actually experienced it personally. I am guessing it is because of doing regular water changes on the one tank that I two part dose.

Ca reactors add extra co2 to your tank fueling algae and lowering ph.

I have never experienced a problem from either of these.

My algae seems to like Po4 and NO3.

Both methods do not add mg and need to be added usually as mgcl adding more cl again. Adding dolomite to ca reactor has been proven not to boost mg like zeovit mg states. Both methods also need to add trace elements, so that is not a factor.

I agree.

The dolomite is just wasting space in your CA RX that would be better off having more aragonite media.

I also thing either way really works well.

It is really more about stability of the water that is most important. As long as your method is stable your tank will do well.

I could not have said it better. :thumbsup:

I have used a reactor and the bubble counter can be a problem, even with a pinpoint controller.

How could a bubble counter be a problem?

Did you mean to say regulating the bubble rate can be a problem?

You can also add to much co2 and clog the reactor and turn your media to mush.

This is a new one for me.

Could you please explain this one a little more?

Or just cause your tank to have a ph more like 8 compared to 8.3.

Before I added a second chamber to my CA RX my PH would be 7.9 at night and 8.2 during the day. Never an issue as far as I could tell.

After I added a second chamber it went to 8.0 at night and 8.3 during the day. Again never an issue.

With kalk as my MU water it is now 8.1 at night and 8.5 during the day. Still not an issue.

I really can't say I've noticed much of a difference in my tank due to PH level.

One of my new thought is not to keep montopora caps, they are real ca kh suckers adding to instability. They really grow too quickly.

Or clams. They really suck it too.

I am thinking of either method as cost no object and the health of the tank. I also did not read any of the other posts in this thread, just thought this might help. Did not want to rock any boats.

Glad you added to the discussion.

I agree on nearly every count but maybe the necessity of a bubble counter.

I agree "need one" was probably overstating it.

You do need some kind of way to indicate how much CO2 you are adding to your CA RX though.

I have learned that it has been the most useless, hard to keep functioning item ever put on a piece of equipment (at least on mine anyway).

A bubble counter is a clear site glass with bubbles passing through it. It gives you a visual indication of CO2 entering your CA RX. It is a very simple device. How could it possibly be hard to function?

I found A pH meter was a better way to set up the outflow. I understand that someone who has never used a reactor doesnt know what the best pH outflow for a reactor is. The bubble counter could be a guide for that for as long as it works, but it really tells you nothing of what the actual pH is coming out of the reactor.

Using a PH probe to regulate the PH of your CR RX effluent is a good way to get you the most efficient use of CO2 possible. I agree it is a great way to do it.

I have been much too lazy to ever get around to setting mine up this way and have really never felt the need.

I set the flow rate through my CA RX to a very slow, steady rate.
I turn up my bubble rate until CA RX keeps up with my system's demand.

When/if my DT Alk level begins to test low. I turn up my bubble rate slightly.
When/if my DT Alk level begins to test high. I turn down my bubble rate slightly.

I remember testing my effluent PH years ago but I can't honestly remember what it was.

I could be wasting some CO2. I don't know.

I found counting bubbles to be very inconsistant and annoying. I gave up on that and just adjusted the bubble rate to keep a consistant pH of 6.2. Your mileage may vary on what pH works best, since thats what truly determines how fast the media dissolves in the reactor.

I have never actually counted the bubble passing through my bubble counter.
I just use it as a visual indication when I adjust my bubble rate to see that the bubble are passing by either faster or slower.

IMO the bubble counter is just a visual aid to show how much CO2 is being injected into the reactor. Since going to the Aquarium Plants box I don't have a bubble counter, the box does that for me.

I just left my bubble counter on there. So I have both.

What I did notice is that the AP box puts out larger bubbles than my old needle valve set up. Now my bubble rate (as seen through my bubble counter) is way slower. Larger bubbles, lot less of them.

 

[sirreal63]

You can control the bubble size, less pressure gives smaller bubbles, higher pressure gives larger bubbles, this can be helpful in tuning the reactor for efficiency. On my small reactor I like to keep the bubble size small, it helps in dissolution of the gas, on the larger reactor I built the larger bubble size works better.

 

[power boat jim]

My bubble counter had to be filled with water before you put the tubing on it. The instructions said fillit with salt water. It would quickly evaporate and need to refilled whch in itself was no fun. After a while the tubing clogged with salt and stopped the flow of CO2. so then I used ro/di water, that still evaporated to fast. So I left the counter empty and just use the pH meter to adjust the bubble flow. Havnt needed any adustments since I started doing this 5 years ago.

Thats why I said It was annoying and difficult to use.

 

[MammothReefer]

If you were running both at the same time then yes I can see where you had plenty of things to fail.

No I wasn't running both at the same time. CA have multiple pumps, regulators, probes, a c02 tank with all sorts of lines that can leak or not fit right. (although I have run kalk with both 2part, or a CA RX)

Save on electricity to spend a lot more on two part?

Is this to somehow say that your SPS tank is more "Green"?

Uh that's your words not mine. My tank used to cost me over 300$ a month to run. Reduction in total amount of equipment (pumps) allowed me to reduce it to 100$. Calcium reactors require multiple, and possibly large pumps to run 24/7. In Cali our bills are tiered so if you get above a specific usage rate the cost goes up FAST.

How would you not have the option to manually dose your tank when needed, whether or not you decide to run a CA RX?

How does one manually dose with CA-RX? You would need to keep 2 part on hand.

So to save $20 - $25 a year in electricity costs, I should spend $200 more on two part mix?

Sorry but that math doesn't work for me.

Maybe for a nano tank but the OP was asking about a 300g SPS.

How exactly would my electricity costs change depending whether my CA RX is up-draft or down-draft ?



Sure you could probably buy it by the pallet somewhere cheap. It would have to be A LOT cheeper than BRS to make it worth your while.

Well you made it up the numbers so of course the math doesn't work. I was running it on a 500g SPS tank. I saved a lot more then 25$ a year, there is also the cost of the c02, media, etc.

Both options can work and are viable. I've used both and have my preference. Can you say the same? You're a coming off rather combative instead of looking at things from multiple perspectives. Both options have there merits but Dosers + 2part is much easier to adjust maintain, lower in cost in most cases, and they allow to you to do complex dosing. My tank consumes more when the lights are on so I can have my dosers dose more when my lights are on and less over nite. Reactors work well and what's nice is about them is you can run them for a VERY long time without maintenance as long as everything works as it should.

 

[REEF SMAC]

You can control the bubble size, less pressure gives smaller bubbles, higher pressure gives larger bubbles, this can be helpful in tuning the reactor for efficiency. On my small reactor I like to keep the bubble size small, it helps in dissolution of the gas, on the larger reactor I built the larger bubble size works better.

Thanks. That is really good information to know. It totally makes sense. I've never messed with different pressures. I just set mine to the same pressure I was running with my old needle valve set up.

My bubble counter had to be filled with water before you put the tubing on it. The instructions said fillit with salt water. It would quickly evaporate and need to refilled whch in itself was no fun. After a while the tubing clogged with salt and stopped the flow of CO2. so then I used ro/di water, that still evaporated to fast. So I left the counter empty and just use the pH meter to adjust the bubble flow. Havnt needed any adustments since I started doing this 5 years ago.

Thats why I said It was annoying and difficult to use.

I totally understand what you mean now. I have never used that type. My bubble counter fills with water when my CA RX is filled with water.
I've seen the bubble counter you describe filled with glycerin oil. It doesn't evaporate out. (would take a really long time anyway)

No I wasn't running both at the same time.

I ran a reactor, and dosing on my 500g setup..

Sorry but from this statement it kinda does sound like you were running them both at the same time.

CA have multiple pumps, regulators, probes, a c02 tank with all sorts of lines that can leak or not fit right. (although I have run kalk with both 2part, or a CA RX)

CA RXs have two pumps, one to circulate it and one to feed it, a CO2 bottle with a regulator and a PH probe is a good option to have.

All the rest about "œall sorts of lines that can leak or not fit right" would describe plenty of equipment associated with a reef tank including dosing pumps.

I personally don't think that junk equipment and/or poor plumbing skills should be used to attack either method.

Uh that's your words not mine. My tank used to cost me over 300$ a month to run. Reduction in total amount of equipment (pumps) allowed me to reduce it to 100$.

Would you please explain a little more here.
You are not telling us that shutting off your CA RX pumps reduced your electricity bill $200 a month are you?

Calcium reactors require multiple, and possibly large pumps to run 24/7.

Again yes CA RXs require two pumps. They do run 24/7.

I currently have an Eheim 1480 circulating my CA RX and have used another Eheim 1048, for many years, to supply it. They are 10 watts each.

I don't consider these to be large pumps. Do you?

In Cali our bills are tiered so if you get above a specific usage rate the cost goes up FAST.

I am in California. I am very aware of what electricity costs here.

How does one manually dose with CA-RX? You would need to keep 2 part on hand.

I have no idea. How does one dose with a CA RX? Is that some kind of trick question?

I would manually dose with two part should I ever need to. My CA RX hasn't prevented me from doing that in any way.

I do have plenty of two part on hand to do that with.

Well you made it up the numbers so of course the math doesn't work. I was running it on a 500g SPS tank. I saved a lot more then 25$ a year, there is also the cost of the c02, media, etc.

Had you bothered to read this entire thread you would know that I have laid out plenty of factual numbers to support my claim that my CA RX is a much more economical for my system. Not a doubt in my mind. I have experienced it. Those numbers did include CO2, media and California electricity BTW.

Both options can work and are viable. I've used both and have my preference.

I agree that both options are viable and I would go on to say they both work extremely well if set up properly.
I totally understand that you have a preference. Each reefer has to decide which method works the best for them, for their situation. If you or anyone else prefers two part over a CA RX, no matter what size tank, no matter what the cost, that is absolutely your choice. I totally respect that. Use whatever you think works best for you and your reef.

Your point about CA RXs using electricity is a valid one for a small tank. I do not think it would be economical to spend the $33 a year to power my CA RX for a 50g tank.( Although I did at one time just for the convenience of it.)

This thread is about a 300g SPS tank though.

The OP is concerned about the cost of two part for his 300g SPS tank. He states that he is considering a CA RX as an alternative.

There is a point where system demand increases enough to make a CA RX more economical than dosing. A fully stocked 300g SPS tank is far past that point IME.

Can you say the same?

As a matter of fact yes. I use both methods today.

My 600g system is using a CA RX.
My 65g system is using dosers.

You're a coming off rather combative instead of looking at things from multiple perspectives.

I don't mean to be at all. I am sorry if I came across that way.

I'm glad you rejoined the discussion.

I appreciate a lot of the input you put out on this forum.


I just find that there is a lot of misinformation out there about what a CA RX does and how well they perform if set up properly. Too many stories from reefers out there, about how they failed as a CA RX user and then blame it on the use of a CA RX.

Both options have there merits but Dosers + 2part is much easier to adjust maintain, lower in cost in most cases,

Sorry but I disagree that dosers are any easier. I spend way more time mixing up two part for my 65g system than I do messing with my CA RX for my 600g system.

Lower in cost for a small tank, Yes. For the OP and his 300g SPS tank, No.

Reefers probably do have smaller tanks in most cases.

and they allow to you to do complex dosing.

What exactly is "œcomplex dosing" ?

My tank consumes more when the lights are on so I can have my dosers dose more when my lights are on and less over nite.

I'm pretty sure mine consumes more during the day as well.
I probably could shut off my CA RX at night using a timer. If I'm ever somehow convinced that this is something worth worrying about.

How much does the CA and Alk level of the ocean drop during the day anyway?

Reactors work well and what's nice is about them is you can run them for a VERY long time without maintenance as long as everything works as it should.

This has been my experience with them.

I totally agree. Well said. :thumbsup:

 

[toothman]

Back again, when I was talking about the bubble conter being a problem, I was talking more about the solenoid and the bubble counter together. I have tried 2 different brands and it still seemed that I would have to adjust the co2 a couple times a week. I guess a adjustment 2 times a week is not crazy. As far as the mush, when I used the fine grain ca media, one time I went on vacation and came back to find the solenoid decided to start adding co2 much quicker and create too much co2 in the reactor stopping the drip flow of the effluent and melting the media excessively.


After this I tried to use the schuran style media with better results. But my ph was generally around 8 which does slow growth. With the doser it is usually a solid 8.3. Even with the 2 chamber MCR reactor ph was still low. I also noticed more algae on the glass with reactor.

As far as chloride in excess it is a known problem with dosing, the ca molecule is used and the cl is left. Over time it can become toxic if regular water changes are not made.

Possibly these are minor problems and it is understandable that so many people are proponets of ca reactors. But again I think that both methods are effective, I just think dosing is easier and works better in my reef tank.

 

[psykobowler]

My approach - kalk wasser reactor on a doser first. When the kalk cannot keep up, add either a ca Rx or 2 part doser. Anything above 300 gallons I prefer ca Rx. It does not mean however that I do not add baking soda in the mix. I add baking soda to raise alkalinity to a certain level then tweak the ca Rx to maintain that level. I still consider kalk the best addition as it acts as buffer against low ph. Cheers!
Glenn

 

[MammothReefer]

I'm sorry REEF SMAC. I like you buddy.... ..but responding to your posts is more work then setting up a reactor for the first time hahaha..

I'll just say I found setting up and adjusting my dosers hands down the easiest supplementation solution to date and I've tried most of them. I also like having the 2 part on hand for manual additions or adjustments when needed. (like for my water change water).

I ran a CARX on several tanks, ran manually dosing on many more. When I finally swapped out my CARX for controlled dosers on my 500g SPS tank.. It made a WORLD of difference for me. (YMMV).

The rest has already been outlined in this thread. It really boils down to personal preference, both can and DO work for any size system.

As far as "what is complex dosing" as I said in the next sentence (above). I can adjust when I dose and how much I dosed based on demands. If I test my alk and calc both before the lights come on, and after It will show that every nite my ALK/CALC spike up, and every day they reduce down during the course of the lights running. However it's the same every day at the same time. So for me I found (and I'm sure we all will) that we have daily swings based on demand caused my our lights. I can setup my dosers in a manner to reduce that daily swing by increase the dosing when my lights are on, and decreasing it when they are off and can do it very easily w/dosers.

 

[jason angel]

+1 CaRx