200G AGE inwall with fishroom

Wow! Nice work on the plumbing!

Grey spa-flex? I like! Where did you find that? I've only seen white.

It looks like your drains go all the way down to the floor, then they have to go "uphill" to make it to the top of the sump. Is that going to be a problem? I'm not a plumber. Perhaps there is enough back pressure since the entry for the drains is so much higher than the final exit for the drains.
 
Wow! Nice work on the plumbing!

Grey spa-flex? I like! Where did you find that? I've only seen white.

It looks like your drains go all the way down to the floor, then they have to go "uphill" to make it to the top of the sump. Is that going to be a problem? I'm not a plumber. Perhaps there is enough back pressure since the entry for the drains is so much higher than the final exit for the drains.

flexpvc.com

Prices aren't bad, but shipping will cost ya ...

There really was no option on the plumbing going to the floor. They traverse the entryway to the fishroom. I'll build a platform over them. I think it will work fine for the reason you mention.
 
Sorry if this has been mentioned before, what is the purpose of the six valves under that stand? Also, will you have a front access panel for the tank?

Very good work! Can't wait to see this finished.
 
Sorry if this has been mentioned before, what is the purpose of the six valves under that stand? Also, will you have a front access panel for the tank?

Very good work! Can't wait to see this finished.

I've seen it on many systems here. I believe I first saw it on drummereef's build thread (great read). It's basically an overdone reactor manifold. Attach whatever you want to it, like carbon, GFO, etc. I tend to overdo things. I was thinking I'd use it to supply the fuge next to it, possibly a sulphur denitrator, maybe the chiller, but I changed things around after it was built and decided not to go with a denitrator, at least not for now.

No front access panel. I wanted as clean a look as possible. Access is difficult, but that just will make me more particular about what I put in it in the first place ....
 
I like those CRC quick couplers:) They do restrict flow a bit, but they sure are nice when you need to remove a reactor for filling or cleaning!
 
Well, I just read through your whole build and I must say...very nice! Everything is looking great so far.

I like that you went with the 'BeanAnimal' style overflow. I am pretty much decided on that for mine; only with the internal, coast-to-coast, configuration.

I'll be following along with your progress...and thanks for your input in my build thread!
 
Really nice build!Very clean throughout the system. Love the cube-like dims.

Well, I just read through your whole build and I must say...very nice! Everything is looking great so far.

I like that you went with the 'BeanAnimal' style overflow. I am pretty much decided on that for mine; only with the internal, coast-to-coast, configuration.

I'll be following along with your progress...and thanks for your input in my build thread!

Thanks guys! Hoping to keep it clean down the road too.

Water going in the frag tank and sump! I'm going to leave the display empty for the time being. I've got a ton of dry rock that I'm planning on using in the display. Hopefully I'll get a chance to do that later today. I'm planning on curing it in place and then after an inital few hermits and snails as a clean up crew and a couple months I'm hoping to move some corals from my trial tank. I'm going to use some regular concrete to fix the rocks in place when I get a good layout, rather than messing with acrylic rod and epoxy. If I have to cure for a bit longer in place, then I'm OK with that. Gives me time to get all the other plumbing for auto water changes setup and some time to work on the LED lighting and Profilux.

I've treated with antibiotics in my existing trial tank so I'm thinking I probably shouldn't be using that rock. I'll probably have to pick up some varied live rock for seeding. Still got some time for that. Amazing how long this has taken me ... pretty sure it will be worth it :)
 
Big order came from Cutter today. I think I'm now committed :) There was a slight mixup in regards to the blue LED mix I ordered, but they are going to fix it. Unfortunately I've got to ship all of them back.

led001.jpg

led004.jpg

led003.jpg

led002.jpg




Lots (LOTS) of Meanwell drivers came from nanotuners.com couple weeks ago also. That's one of two boxes ...

led007.jpg

led008.jpg




Also more recent pics of the tank and aquascape in progress ...

led005.jpg

led006.jpg
 
Your attention to detail with this build is incredible! That is one of the most sanitary setups I have seen! Very nice! I was truley dissapointed when I got the the last page as I was dieing to see more! Very nice!!!!!
 
Nice build, following along keep up the pics. My wife talked me into a bigger fish room. Not sure how that happened, but running with it while i can. Your setup looks very similar to my plans. Always looking for better ideas.
 
Chris at nanotuners added my order to his next purchase. I didn't clear out his inventory. I ordered these months ago. I'm not trying to be a hog ... sorry if I am ...
 
Did I miss something? I thought you were going to run MH/T5. What's up with all the LEDs?

Also, I notice you have dimmable meanwells. Are you going to hook them up to a controller to take advantage of the dimming capabilities. If so, how are you going to hook up some 15-20 meanwell drivers to the controller.

I too am considering building my own LED fixture for a 200 gallon display, but I'm not sure how to hook up that many meanwells to a controller. I want to be able to control and dim the blues and whites separately. Seems like there must be a way to daisy chain them together.
 
Maybe I missed it but could you explain where the line goes after the reactor manifold? I was thinking of doing the same thing but was a little confused on that part.
Thanks!
 
Did I miss something? I thought you were going to run MH/T5. What's up with all the LEDs?

Also, I notice you have dimmable meanwells. Are you going to hook them up to a controller to take advantage of the dimming capabilities. If so, how are you going to hook up some 15-20 meanwell drivers to the controller.

I too am considering building my own LED fixture for a 200 gallon display, but I'm not sure how to hook up that many meanwells to a controller. I want to be able to control and dim the blues and whites separately. Seems like there must be a way to daisy chain them together.

No you didn't miss anything. I've been putting a lot of thought into what lighting I wanted. I went back and forth between virtually everything except a T5 only setup. Finally decided that I wanted to have the LED's for the convenience (no bulb changes) and I wanted to try using relatively narrow 25 degree optics. I was going to attempt a "Japanese style" spotlighting of relevant areas of the tank and not try to light up the whole room or even the walls of the aquarium if I could help it. Plus a Profilux controller would be able to do some really nice dimming.

I have the Profilux 3 ex and I was planning on getting an expansion box to house their boards (EVG-AP-2F) that will control 0-10V lighting and also control switching. If I use 6 of these light modules I'm planning, I'll probably need 30 Meanwells. All this hardware is a little staggering, cost and effort wise. I'm certainly planning on completing the project, but it's taken more time than originally thought.

To complicate matters, I just finished adding 24 Royal Blue Cree XPE LED's to a Luxim plasma bulb mounted in a Lumenarc III. Not a great reflector for this light source, but if I can get the color temperature to work, then I may use this center and then 3-4 Meanwell driven LED modules around it.
 
Maybe I missed it but could you explain where the line goes after the reactor manifold? I was thinking of doing the same thing but was a little confused on that part.
Thanks!

I may not have explained that, but the end of the manifold returns back below water into the sump. This will always be open a bit so that any air can go through this and hopefully not into the reactors attached. I didn't actually come up with this idea ... it's from drummereef's build. Great build there and I got lots of ideas from him. The discussion for the reasoning behind the manifold return begins about page 10:

Link to drummereef's build
 
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