Acros are coming along nicely, looking really great. I can't wait to see this tank in 6 months or so.
Thanks for looking into the thread. I'm so looking forward to seeing the tank in 6 months myself...the growth has taken off and colours are coming in.
I just need to STOP myself from buying any more Acros (I dread AEFW's despite QT etc) and keep things stable and going as they are. :fun5:
great looking tank. And really nice Photography.
Thank you.
I think it helps with colors. I have only had it running for about a month but I like the look better than an aqua blue special. The growth has seemed to pick up a little also after adding the ge6500k but I added a blue reef Brite about the same time so it's really hard to say if it's the ge bulb or the reef Brite or both but so far I like the results.
Thanks for the input. Once the colours of my corals have improved, I think I will be brave enough to put a 6.5K tube into the combo.
Sahin, your shots are some of the most perfectly saturated and color balanced I have seen in the boards, not to mention the extreme clarity..
How do you set the color balance on your camera and what lights do you shoot the tank under?
Each time I visit your thread, I am re-dumbfounded by your latest shots..
Matt, thanks for recognising my photography efforts. I always try and photograph with a White Balance as close to what I see.
I shoot everything in MANUAL mode:
Apexture: I set it manually, and change for each shot. Bigger f number = greater Depth of Field, but images get darker as the aperture gets smaller.
I try and maintain an aperture of at least f11 to f16.
The bigger the f-number the more of your image is in focus (ie greater DOF).
Shutter Speed: I try and use at least 1/80 to 1/100. The bigger the number the faster image is captured and the less likely there will be blur and out of focus images.
ISO: is the sensitivity; I use typically ISO 600-800; modern DSLR's can go so much higher (like ISO 3200, before severe digital noise creeps in). The bigger the ISO, the faster the shutter speed and great the f-number you can use.
White Balance: Most of us reefkeepers have difficulty dealing with this aspect of photography. Older equipment and AUTO settings does NOT allow the camera to deal with the BLUE end of the light hitting the camera sensor. Once you figure out how to set the
White Balance for your camera, the images become much better.
Setting your camera to a high K value allow most cameras to deal with our tank lighting:
Example of good and bad White Balance. The effect is very severe with tank photography.
I use a Nikon D70 camera which is around 12 years old, despite that I use the camera to the best of its ability to capture coral images with good colour representation. My camera has a CUSTOM White Balance Reading button. Basically you shoot at a section of your tank which best represent neutral gray. That means I take a custom shot of an area of the tank which has majority white eg sand works well. Or I might shoot half at my cabinet which is white and half of the frame if of the display.
I would highly recommend learning the individual settings for white balance for your camera.
Alternative to White Balance; use RAW: Most modern camera can take a photo in auto white balance, but retain all the colour info within the image. So within software you can choose the "K" setting. Ie setting to a 10K+ within the RAW converter software will reduce most of the blue.
Tank Lights:
I try and take all my photos during the PEAK period when the light is at its most white setting.
I have come to find the following the best for tank photography and coral colours:
T5: a mix of 2/4 White tubes, 1/4 Actinic and 1/4 Blue
LED: Blue channels at 100% and white channel at 50%
With my Pacific Sun light unit, there are no White LED's, but it has Blue, Cyan, Green, Red etc etc hence gives the appearance of white light. With my ATI unit I find setting as described above gives a 14-20K look and the camera deals with the overall BLUE look quite fine.
Quality of images:
My camera is old and only 6MP. But it is the lens which provides the nice, clear and sharp images.
To a certain point, a high quality lens on a standard DSLR will produce better images than a crappy lens on an expensive camera.
I use the Tamron 90mm Macro lens which is excellent quality in terms of images it produces:
Examples from mnaufacturer website:
http://www.tamron.eu/uk/lenses/sp-af-90mm-f28-di-macro-11/
Also, your tank is making me question wether to abandon my ca reactor (which I have used for 15 years..) and go fauna Marin balling...
Dont. If it weren't for the upfront cost of setting one up, I'd have switched a long time ago. I am a member on at least 15 different USA/Canadian/Aussie/Brit reef forums; I've read 100's of build threads. IMO Ca reactors are better. My buddy Ahmed runs an ATI LED Powermodule with a DaStaco Ca reactor; the SPS colours are as good as any Radium light system.
GFO + excessive GAC use is VERY counter productive to SPS colours. Limit their use as much as possible.
I dose using the FM Balling system, but use the trace elements because I feel they help. A Ca reactor provides all of this. FM Balling system can get very costly for large size tanks as well.
My feeling is: Ca reactor or 2/3 part with trace + lots of fish + lots of food + stable parameters + decent light = colouful SPS.
This is what you achieved before.
Run your current system the same way. I see an AMAZING system. Lots of colourful corals. Lots of fish. I bet you didnt strip the nutrients. Or run excessive amounts of GFO and GAC. Your old system either matches of betters many TOTM's. I seriously mean that. Just stick with basics and do what you are already good at.