seandanekind
Active member
Hey Shawn-
You may have seen one of my other threads on here ot CORA outlining my rather unconventional lighting system. I'm the guy with 2x250W DE on lightmovers.
For reference, my tank is 400 gallons (82x45x28). By using the movers, I can get the lights closer to the water (more intensity) and still cover a large surface area. If I hadn't used the movers, I would have needed 8x250W to give me the coverage and intensity I wanted.
I'll assume you're already set on your main lighting, but, you may want to add one thing that I've just recently added, and LOVE...
I added a single 250W halide as high as I could (36" above the tank) so I could just flip on one light if I wanted to view the whole tank after sunset.
I used an XM 15K SE that I bought for comparison purposes on a spare IceCap ballast in a cheapo retro reflector.
It works really well, and the shimmer lines you get from 1 lamp up that high are really cool. Much larger than "normal" shimmer lines in most home aquaria.
Granted, there's very little to block the light with my small DE pendants on light movers... You also get ever changing light patterns because I leave the movers on 24/7 to get a similar effect from my LED moonlights.
I'll have to get an up to date pic this weekend... for now, here's a few old ones:
You can see there's lots of room. I have a blackout shade to the left and the rest is wide open.
This pic is really bad because I hadn't cleaned the bottom 1/2 of the glass in 6 months, but it does a decent job of illustrating the movement of the lights.
Here's one that shows the whole light rig (minus the new center light) Again, before I cleaned the glass..
I used to have a fully enclosed hood that I could raise and lower, but I got to liking the top-down view of my reef so much that I decided to go with the shade instead.
You may have seen one of my other threads on here ot CORA outlining my rather unconventional lighting system. I'm the guy with 2x250W DE on lightmovers.
For reference, my tank is 400 gallons (82x45x28). By using the movers, I can get the lights closer to the water (more intensity) and still cover a large surface area. If I hadn't used the movers, I would have needed 8x250W to give me the coverage and intensity I wanted.
I'll assume you're already set on your main lighting, but, you may want to add one thing that I've just recently added, and LOVE...
I added a single 250W halide as high as I could (36" above the tank) so I could just flip on one light if I wanted to view the whole tank after sunset.
I used an XM 15K SE that I bought for comparison purposes on a spare IceCap ballast in a cheapo retro reflector.
It works really well, and the shimmer lines you get from 1 lamp up that high are really cool. Much larger than "normal" shimmer lines in most home aquaria.
Granted, there's very little to block the light with my small DE pendants on light movers... You also get ever changing light patterns because I leave the movers on 24/7 to get a similar effect from my LED moonlights.
I'll have to get an up to date pic this weekend... for now, here's a few old ones:
You can see there's lots of room. I have a blackout shade to the left and the rest is wide open.
This pic is really bad because I hadn't cleaned the bottom 1/2 of the glass in 6 months, but it does a decent job of illustrating the movement of the lights.
Here's one that shows the whole light rig (minus the new center light) Again, before I cleaned the glass..
I used to have a fully enclosed hood that I could raise and lower, but I got to liking the top-down view of my reef so much that I decided to go with the shade instead.