Hi Sahin and shih87
I get the same STN on the base of my corals and my PO4 jumped from 0.02ppm to 0.04ppm in one day, NO3 sit at 0.5
I'm not dosing any Zeo product at the moment I get the idea that the rocks and substrate leach something
I must admit that I dosed CV but are not sure if that cause the brown slime outbreak as I only dose it once a week
On my side corals lighten up and now I lose colour
I will do a 20% water change and post my result back to you.
My brown slime issue started the same @shih87 and now it's everywhere so then I cut back on the start3 from 0.3ml to 0.1ml and still no positive results
I wonder if I must try coral snow with Zeobak and see if there will be a change
What do you guys think?
BTW, I notice if I dose AA the brown slime spread more so I will not suggest you dose that now
Charl
Are you running the Zeovit stones? If so, check the flow through the reactor. Zeovit recommends one/off cycle for PO4 reduction. Maybe the flow is too fast causing the paleness and STN?
Hi Sahin and shih87,
Thanks for the info @Sahin I restrict the flow on the reactor to 360l/h for my size tank
I found this on the web about the brown slime @shih87 can you confirm if this is what you get in your tank
Here's the link:
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/blog/how-i-beat-dinoflagellates-and-the-lessons-i-learned
Thanks Charl
Sorry for intruding on your thread shih87 I am trying to find a solution to our problem we having.
As I have the same problem at this stage.
Charl
I think it is same stuff, but mine still remain on frag holder only.
sahin if I may ask how did you get rid of the Dinoflagellate? As I think that is what I have in my tank
sahin if I dose special blend will it do any harm if I give it a try and do you think it will work?
Is the frag rack new?
Some plastics can leach phosphate or other chemicals thereby some nuisance algae or brown slime can grow.
If the brown slime is only on the frag rack, I would take it out and wash thoroughly in HOT water and then place in the tank and see what happens.
You dont want it to spread around the tank.
Shih87, I agree with you and would treat the SPS until all STN stops.
As for the brown slime :
It can be two types:
1. Dinoflagellate (the stuff Charl linked earlier)
2. Cyanobacteria
Number 2 is easy fix. 1 is very hard to eradicate.
Can you tell me if brown slime disappears during the night ie after the lights go off and returns in the morning? If YES, this is a strong sign it is some kind of Dinoflagellate.
If it doesnt, it is very likely it is Cyanno.
I had both in the past.
I'll most more if you can confirm the disappearance effect I asked above.
I don't think I have a UV problem with my lights I think that I used to much activated carbon so I stopped the reactor now that is the other reason why I will do a big water change tonight
Hi shih87,
Ok so I decided to dose some microbe-lift special blend last night and left the skimmer of for the whole night, this morning although it's to soon to say my substrate is white with a patch here and there of brown algae rock nice and clean for now will wait for midday and then reply back to you
In connection with the GAC I decided to stop the reactor for a week and do some good water changes and see if the corals colour up again
Thanks Charl
Any update on your coral after above actions taken?
My STN is stop and SPS slightly turn color back (not sure true or just my feeling, though) after stop GAC and reduce light to 70%. My PO4 continue drop and now is 0.02 ppm. I may put only 20 g GAC back and start to increase light next week. Or maybe too early!?
Regarding my brown slime, if sahib is right, then it is cyano since it always there regardless light on or off. I hope my new live rock help to improve bacteria balance. I might also brush and clean my SPS rack to see if brown slime issue slow down...I also did a 10% water change continues 3 days this week, BTW.
I dosed the special blend no change water clean but the slime came back with lights on so I definitely sit with Dinoflagellate. So yesterday I did a big water change and start with a 3 day light blackout hope the corals will pull through. With the lights out period I will dose AA and continue to dose start3 and zeobak will test my water parameters and post back.
What do you think?
Thanks Charl
Good to hear your STN has stopped. Give it another 5 days before putting any GAC. That should give the acros plenty of time to start recovery/restarting tissue growth.
I strongly believe you might have Cyano...of course I could be completely wrong, but with your tank I think it is just a bacterial imbalance like you believe. I think once your STN issue is COMPLETELY gone, resume the GAC and water changes, along with the rocks you added should get rid of the brown stuff within 2 weeks.
Unfortunately, I strongly believe you have Dinos.Sorry my friend.
But be strong and be determined to beat them.
Here is a plan for you: (you can change the plan to how you think is best for your tank).
1. When Dinos are at their MAX, this will be towards to end of the evening when the lights have run for at least 5-6 hours, SIPHON OUT as much as possible. THIS IS DAY 1.
2. Dose Special Blend. Make sure your tank is AERATED properly.
3. No lights for the next 3 days. DAYS 2, 3, 4
4. IF you have UV filter unit or buy one if possible, run this with SLOW flow to kill free floating Dinos. These Dino bastards can swim and running a high power UV unit with 1 day after allowing the Special Blend to run through the system will hopefully allow the Bacteria in the Special Blend to take over and shift the balance towards those Bacteria and away from the Dinos. DAYS 3 &4. I know Zeovit say not to RUN UV but in this case because of DINOs, we can run for the time being.
5. Day 5, start the lights back but only running 1 hour, 2 hours day 6, 3 hours day 7.
6. MONITOR you Ca and ALKALINITY during this time and ensure it doesn go over the limit. It most likely will rise as the lack of light means no growth on the SPS corals.
7. If the Dinos start to come back, repeat again after giving the Corals 4-5 complete days or rest.
Each time you do this, the Dinos should become weaker and weaker.
Also if you combine tools such as High pH with Kalk then you increase your chances of beating Dinos.
You can turn on light for 10 minutes etc to feed the fish. But no longer than that.
Keep an eye on the SPS; use a torch to look at the flesh/tissue of the SPS to make sure they are ok and not STN'ing etc. If any STN starts, turn the lights back on slowly and allow them to recover before trying again.
Good to hear your STN has stopped. Give it another 5 days before putting any GAC. That should give the acros plenty of time to start recovery/restarting tissue growth.
I strongly believe you might have Cyano...of course I could be completely wrong, but with your tank I think it is just a bacterial imbalance like you believe. I think once your STN issue is COMPLETELY gone, resume the GAC and water changes, along with the rocks you added should get rid of the brown stuff within 2 weeks.
Unfortunately, I strongly believe you have Dinos.Sorry my friend.
But be strong and be determined to beat them.
Here is a plan for you: (you can change the plan to how you think is best for your tank).
1. When Dinos are at their MAX, this will be towards to end of the evening when the lights have run for at least 5-6 hours, SIPHON OUT as much as possible. THIS IS DAY 1.
2. Dose Special Blend. Make sure your tank is AERATED properly.
3. No lights for the next 3 days. DAYS 2, 3, 4
4. IF you have UV filter unit or buy one if possible, run this with SLOW flow to kill free floating Dinos. These Dino bastards can swim and running a high power UV unit with 1 day after allowing the Special Blend to run through the system will hopefully allow the Bacteria in the Special Blend to take over and shift the balance towards those Bacteria and away from the Dinos. DAYS 3 &4. I know Zeovit say not to RUN UV but in this case because of DINOs, we can run for the time being.
5. Day 5, start the lights back but only running 1 hour, 2 hours day 6, 3 hours day 7.
6. MONITOR you Ca and ALKALINITY during this time and ensure it doesn go over the limit. It most likely will rise as the lack of light means no growth on the SPS corals.
7. If the Dinos start to come back, repeat again after giving the Corals 4-5 complete days or rest.
Each time you do this, the Dinos should become weaker and weaker.
Also if you combine tools such as High pH with Kalk then you increase your chances of beating Dinos.
You can turn on light for 10 minutes etc to feed the fish. But no longer than that.
Keep an eye on the SPS; use a torch to look at the flesh/tissue of the SPS to make sure they are ok and not STN'ing etc. If any STN starts, turn the lights back on slowly and allow them to recover before trying again.
Wow.... these detail steps must came from real practice.
Charl, I am sure you will out of woods soon with these advices.
shih87, yes I must agree awesome advice will follow and post back to you guys
I hope so shih87 connected my kalk reactor to push the ph higher plus the light blackout dosed special blend as well, I skim wet and running two skimmers on the system now so all thing must go well now :spin3: