alanmorehead
Member
Some of the fish videos are uploaded and encoded:
Video of fish after the recent display additions
Group of tangs
Fish Feeding
Video of fish after the recent display additions
Group of tangs
Fish Feeding
Alan's 300g Marineland DD Reef
- Thread starter alanmorehead
- Start date
Greenmaster
New member
That's so cool I can't wait for that at my house 
can't wait till you get some video of your mandarin feeding
can't wait till you get some video of your mandarin feeding 
jd474
New member
Unconfirmed Wrasse (Is this really a McCosker's Wrasse?):
Looks like C. adornatus to me. Do you have a pic with him not stressed? Def. not a McCoskers. Awesome pic of the Exquisite flashing, BTW.
MarineGirl411
New member
I love your setup. Quick question, I was wondering how you will be able to remove that dart for cleaning, etc? I have had 2 of them that ended up needing to be replaced and it was a pita getting them off my tank. I had valves and a true union. Just curious. Beautiful work!
bohlke
PBITAWA
Exactly just let me know when you are ready for some frags!
alanmorehead
Member
Thanks
He was cruising around and picking at the rock just before the lights went out last night. I'll try to get some video taken the next time I see him.That's so cool I can't wait for that at my house
I got the 300g from Tractor Supply Company. The 50g and 100g tanks are from Menards. They are close to these prices locally:
50g = $65
100g = $70
150g = $120
300g = $200
Thanks. It's really interesting to watch their behavior in a small group when they swim around. I didn't expect the blue hippo and desjardini tang to join in, but I guess they felt left out
No doubt. 3 palys and a cap frag is not acceptable
Now that I have the lights in place I can start moving the corals out of the stock tank. I still haven't figured out the best way to mount the SPS. I really want to avoid the epoxy mounds that I had it my last tank and make it look a little more natural. I'd like to try acrylic rods, plastic golf tees, or something similar where the top of the mount is not too big.
I don't have any other pics than the ones I took during drip acclimation. I'll try to get a better pic from the QT tank when it's out. The adornatus pic from Blue Zoo looks pretty similar to the one I have:
http://www.bluezooaquatics.com/productDetail.asp?cid=290&pid=2046&did=1
There are unions on both the intake and output of the return pump. I use a plastic/rubber threaded test plug in the bulkhead from the inside of the stock tank to stop the flow. Shutting off the return pump before I plug it empties most of the spa flex, at least down to the sump's water level. I put a towel around the pump for the rest of the water in the spa flex and pump when servicing.
This week!
I made a temporary screen guard and built it out of 2x2s. It is just a single frame for the whole top and the screen is stapled on. Only took about 10 minutes to build and works really well. However, I definitely want three individual screens. That thing is a pain to try to remove and put back on.
alanmorehead
Member
I ended up pulling the exquisite wrasse out last night due to aggression. It was really going after my blue hippo tang. It showed a little aggression when first added, but it was usually just a quite chase and then both fish would swim away. Last night was different though. The wrasse repeatedly nipped and chased the blue hippo after the hippo swam away. I even saw him flush the hippo out of it's hiding spot in the rockwork a few times. I took the exquisite in and traded the LFS for a lubbocks wrasse.
I also picked up a nice-sized blue hippo tang, a 4-5" Bimaculatus Anthias, and another anthias from a local reefer. I think those are going in the stock tank due to their size. I'm not sure if adding a large anthias in the DT with the other smaller fish would be good or not.
I also picked up a nice-sized blue hippo tang, a 4-5" Bimaculatus Anthias, and another anthias from a local reefer. I think those are going in the stock tank due to their size. I'm not sure if adding a large anthias in the DT with the other smaller fish would be good or not.
alanmorehead
Member
Here are the follow up pics I got where he's not as stressed out. It does look similar to all the adornatus pics online, but maybe these will help confirm:
alanmorehead
Member
I got a bunch of corals moved into my display tank last night, but it didn't really turn out the way I'd hoped. I was pretty much limited to whichever crevice I could find in the rock that matched the frag plug, so the placement of the corals isn't where I want them.
The first issue is remounting the SPS frags with a smaller base. I have some 3/16" rigid air tubing that would probably work pretty well for many of them. I didn't have any luck drilling out holes on some old SPS skeletons though. Maybe a concrete bit would be best? Assuming I could get a hole drilled out, I could super glue the air tube in place and would have a thin, solid base to mount with.
The second issue with this method is the mounting point on the rock. There are no holes or anything on many of the edges/points that I want the SPS. I'm not taking the rock back out, so I would have to basically drill holes underwater :worried:
I think I could take care of the first problem, but I think the second one would be difficult and messy (snake attachment on a cordless dremel?). Going back to the epoxy putty is probably the best option. I have a few tubes of Aqua Epoxy, so I'll give that a shot tonight.
Also, I have a bunch of frag discs covered in zoa/paly polyps. I might end up scraping those off and mounting them to small pieces of rock. These are going to be placed at the bottom of the rock structures to make a zoa garden.
The first issue is remounting the SPS frags with a smaller base. I have some 3/16" rigid air tubing that would probably work pretty well for many of them. I didn't have any luck drilling out holes on some old SPS skeletons though. Maybe a concrete bit would be best? Assuming I could get a hole drilled out, I could super glue the air tube in place and would have a thin, solid base to mount with.
The second issue with this method is the mounting point on the rock. There are no holes or anything on many of the edges/points that I want the SPS. I'm not taking the rock back out, so I would have to basically drill holes underwater :worried:
I think I could take care of the first problem, but I think the second one would be difficult and messy (snake attachment on a cordless dremel?). Going back to the epoxy putty is probably the best option. I have a few tubes of Aqua Epoxy, so I'll give that a shot tonight.
Also, I have a bunch of frag discs covered in zoa/paly polyps. I might end up scraping those off and mounting them to small pieces of rock. These are going to be placed at the bottom of the rock structures to make a zoa garden.
Greenmaster
New member
The best way to drill out is with a diamond bit for cutting glass/tile as a masonry bit would likely crack/brake the rock. The only problem is getting the cut cylinder out... often you can pry it and it will brake off... also once you are at the depth you want, you can roll the bit side to side to try and cut the bottom a bit before trying to brake off the cylinder.
alanmorehead
Member
I just placed my order for an Apex controller unit w/ 2 pH probes from Reef Geek:
http://www.reefgeek.com/equipment/Controllers_&_Monitors/Neptune_Systems_AquaController/Apex_Controller_&_Accessories/Apex_w!_Display_Module_&_2xStd_pH_&_Temp_Probe_&_EB8_by_Neptune_Systems
This will be an upgrade from an AC Jr and Milwaukee pH controller. I'll run both pH probes on this controller, one for the main system and one for my Geo calcium reactor. I have the serial port on the AC Jr, but the grounding issue causes inaccurate readings. Rather than get the adapter, I figured this would be a good time to upgrade to the built-in web server and replace my old probes at the same time. Also, I think I can use the DC8 in conjunction with the EB8 for controlling devices on two separate 20A circuits. Plus, I can always use the old AC Jr controller with a single outlet X10 setup for controlling temp on an extra system (QT or breeding?)
I haven't had time to work on mounting/re-mounting frags and I'm busy through the rest of the week. I'll post some pics once I get those in place early next week.
http://www.reefgeek.com/equipment/Controllers_&_Monitors/Neptune_Systems_AquaController/Apex_Controller_&_Accessories/Apex_w!_Display_Module_&_2xStd_pH_&_Temp_Probe_&_EB8_by_Neptune_Systems
This will be an upgrade from an AC Jr and Milwaukee pH controller. I'll run both pH probes on this controller, one for the main system and one for my Geo calcium reactor. I have the serial port on the AC Jr, but the grounding issue causes inaccurate readings. Rather than get the adapter, I figured this would be a good time to upgrade to the built-in web server and replace my old probes at the same time. Also, I think I can use the DC8 in conjunction with the EB8 for controlling devices on two separate 20A circuits. Plus, I can always use the old AC Jr controller with a single outlet X10 setup for controlling temp on an extra system (QT or breeding?)
I haven't had time to work on mounting/re-mounting frags and I'm busy through the rest of the week. I'll post some pics once I get those in place early next week.
bohlke
PBITAWA
I just use a 3 prong to 2 prong adapter and my serial port ground loop issues went away. Of course now if I get an electrical storm most likely something will fry but its been working well for about 2 years.
little bear
New member
very nice ,so beautiful
