Algae Scrubber Basics

It's the engineer in me. Plus it's a really slow day at work.

Part of my reason for posting much of that information was for purposes beyond your system, in case someone is reading this and really wants to understand the dynamics of the system. I think that gets glossed over sometimes, so someone will find it useful. Plus I just like to tear apart things/idea and find out what makes them tick/work, and I've been doing this quite a bit lately w/r to ATS.

So I don't take your comments as being argumentative, and I hope you don't take mine that way either. I simply took your system and problem and brainstormed a bit on the causes, which launched me into a bit of a rant. Some of it applied to you, but much of it was just general info.

I do also have an explanation regarding the tidal pools and such, as this is one of those counterpoints I considered. Keep in mind that this is just a logical deduction, but I think it makes sense. I will assume that the 80,000 lux figure represents the maximum noonday sunlight, and probably on a clear day, in the tropical or at least sub-tropical zone. This isn't the case all day long, only during a limited portion of the day, and only on clear days. So the majority of the time, the sunlight is actually much below this figure. Tidal pools also have water depth (varying, but water depth none the less) and the more water that there is between the algae and the surface, the more intensity decreases. The incident angle of the light throughout the day will also cut back on the effective intensity. With all these factored in, albeit an extreme simplification, it is easy to see how algae grows well in tidal pools - it follows along logically with algae liking the lower intensity light. There will probably be days where sunlight is so intense, that photoinhibition takes over and growth stops, but it doesn't last long, and certainly not long enough to wipe out all the algae. The same cannot be said for an improperly designed ATS, as it would be quite easy to induce photoinhibition and never get any growth at all.

As for LEDs, yes this seems to be a point that isn't fully clear. A similar explanation as above can be offerred as to why algae grows under HP LEDs in a DT, but also the inverse square rule helps explain this one. Algae grows on rock and substrate under lights positioned several inches above the surface level. This does not correlate directly to algae growing well in a vertical screen ATS with the light positioned 4 inches away with only a sheet of moving water between the algae and the light source. This is the leap that most make in reasoning that an LED ATS should work fine. You will grow some algae, but when you match lumen-per-lumen standard HP LED lights to match T5HO or CFL output, it appears that LEDs are too intense to allow algae to grow properly and perform adequate filtration, due to photoinhibition. That's why it's still considered experimental.
 
OK maybe this has been mentioned, but either way can the first post be edited?


I know my math 10x10 is always 100.
(10 in x 10 in = 100 sq inches / 2 sq inches per gallon = 50 gallons)
(10 in x 10 in = 100 sq inches / 4 sq inches per gallon = 25 gallons)
or is it
(10 in x 10 in = 100 sq inches / 2.5 sq inches per gallon = 40 gallons)
Vertical - 2 square inches of lighted screen per gallon
Lighting both sides
10 in x 10 in x 2 sides = 200 sq inches / 2 sq inches per gallon = 100 gallons
Lighting one side
10 in x 10 in x 1 side = 100 sq inches / 2 sq inches per gallon = 50 gallons
However this maybe make even more sense (at least it does to me)

I am now off to finish reading the whole thread and thanks to all who have contributed.

EDIT: I had to re-read your post. The last 2 calculations you show are correct from one perspective. I explain below. The first 2 appear to correlate to single-sided and horzontal screens, respectively. The third calculation I don't understand, the 2.5 figure. I would say that one is incorrect.

Where is gets confusing is that there are 2 sides to the screen. Think about a piece of printer paper. If someone held it up and said "How big is this", you would say "8.5 x 11" you wouldn't say "17 x 11". That is how you must think when considering the screen size, in order to keep it simple.

Think about it like this:

If the screen is lit on both sides, then the screen must measure 1 square inch per gallon. This is different from the usable surface area, which is in fact both sides. If you look at it that way, you need 2 square inches of illuminated surface area per gallon of water. That is a more complicated, but factually correct, way of describing the necessary screen size.

So the rule of thumb for a screen lit on both sides, multiply the length and width dimensions to get the gallons of filtering.

When lighting on only one side, double it.

When the screen is horizontal (or sloped at any angle whatsoever), double it. Usually this coincides with a screen lit on only one side, so these will multiply together (x4)
 
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I am up to page 12. I found a reference for 4 sq inches for horizontal. It is a shame we can't get that first post corrected. I saw it confused a few other people also.

I guess it is just the way I think. I think usable surface area not how am i going to light this thing. To each his own, either way I have the numbers figured out for the basic layouts.

Getting ahead since it may already be answered. WHAT IF
A horizontal ATS has about 2 inches of water in it. This would make it more a 3D model which seemed to have gotten lost after the first few pages (maybe it comes back - I love suspense). Would this require less area? Perhaps to slow a flow to keep it from being flattened would be required and make it no efficient enough. What if surge/tipping was added to prevent matting?

Thanks
 
Floyd R The same cannot be said for an improperly designed ATS said:
From what I've read, that is not how photoinhibition works. Under bright light you get very rapid growth for 4 or so hours, then photoinhibition occurs and growth almost stops. Which is why I will try a 4 hour photoperiod followed by 4 hours darkness. I want to wake up the algae and make it grow like crazy, then just before photoinhibition sets in, put it back to sleep, then after 4 hr. wake it back up.

So it would quite feasable to burn lamps for 18 hours and only get 4 hours or so of rapid growth. I have not taken any readings, but my guess is that T5s situated 1 1/2-1 3/4 inches from the algae as mine will be will have that kind of intensity.
 
I am up to page 12. I found a reference for 4 sq inches for horizontal. It is a shame we can't get that first post corrected. I saw it confused a few other people also.

I guess it is just the way I think. I think usable surface area not how am i going to light this thing. To each his own, either way I have the numbers figured out for the basic layouts.

Getting ahead since it may already be answered. WHAT IF
A horizontal ATS has about 2 inches of water in it. This would make it more a 3D model which seemed to have gotten lost after the first few pages (maybe it comes back - I love suspense). Would this require less area? Perhaps to slow a flow to keep it from being flattened would be required and make it no efficient enough. What if surge/tipping was added to prevent matting?

Thanks
This is the first post you are referring to.

-Plastic Canvas- (Roughed up, Cactus-like or Velcro)
(Veritcally Hanging)
1 sq. inch of screen per gallon with bulbs on BOTH sides
(10 x 10 = 100 sq. inches = 100 gallons)
2 sq. inches of screen per gallon, if lit on just ONE side.
(10 x 10 = 50 sq. inches = 50 gallons)
(Horizontal) - (can only be lit from one side, for obvious reasons)
4 sq. inches of screen per gallon
(10 x 10 = 40 sq. inches = 40 gallons)

This is correct, just remember that is is the dimensions of the screen that matters, not the area. This makes the 1 square inch per gallon rule easy to understand. Almost everyone makes their ATS with a vertical screen. Thus a 200 gallon tank needs a screen that is 10x20=200. That's why the rule was written that way.

If you only light one side, then you need 2 square inches of screen per gallon, by the dimension not by the surface area. So for a 200 you need 20x20=400.

From what I've read, that is not how photoinhibition works. Under bright light you get very rapid growth for 4 or so hours, then photoinhibition occurs and growth almost stops. Which is why I will try a 4 hour photoperiod followed by 4 hours darkness. I want to wake up the algae and make it grow like crazy, then just before photoinhibition sets in, put it back to sleep, then after 4 hr. wake it back up.

So it would quite feasable to burn lamps for 18 hours and only get 4 hours or so of rapid growth. I have not taken any readings, but my guess is that T5s situated 1 1/2-1 3/4 inches from the algae as mine will be will have that kind of intensity.

I knew I was missing something! I remember reading that somewhere also, thank you for posting that. I will have to look that up again, but I believe you are correct. This makes even more sense in the tidal pool scenario, because on a peak day, by the time the sun passes overhead the photoinhibition period will likely have been reached, but will soon pass. So in the ATS scenario, you would get growth up to a certain extent. As for the 4 on/4 off schedule, it would be interesting to see if that works better. One thing I do remember reading is that all plants and animals have adapted to the natural circadian rhythm of the world, so they're used to a certain daylight cycle. So it may or may not make a difference. But, that's another experiment to add to the list!!
 
Yes I am referring to the first post.
4 sq. inches of screen per gallon
(10 x 10 = 40 sq. inches = 40 gallons)
This should read = 25 gallons (the math is not correct). This is where my initial confusion came in.

I am sorry to nitpick but how can you say
just remember that is is the dimensions of the screen that matters, not the area
and then say
1 square inch per gallon rule easy
You have to use the dimension to get square inches. I understand the rules you can think about it anyway you want. But no matter how you look at it the example calculations on the first post are wrong. I think that is what has lead to you trying to correct me when if fact I understand what you are saying about the calculations. Also I am that 1% that is thinking of going Horizontal (see post above). I really do appreciate your time explaining this.
 
Well it about time :). If you hadn't figured it out I was going to PM you to avoid confontation on the thread. I sort of afraid that my last post might sound argumentative, but really I do appreciate all the work this thread.
 
measurements

measurements

So, if I have this straight, a 600 gallon system would need a screen about 25 by 25 lit from both sides? With a turnover per hour of ~ 600 gallons??

Or what am I leaving out?
 
So, if I have this straight, a 600 gallon system would need a screen about 25 by 25 lit from both sides? With a turnover per hour of ~ 600 gallons??

Or what am I leaving out?

By the standard rout you would need 35gph per inch of screen width so 25inch wide screen X 35= 875gph.
 
dimensions

dimensions

So that is 25" wide by 25" long?

Quite doable.

Compact florescents? 4" from the mesh? I am going to reread the whole thread and get it into my head, whaT I am reading this has got to be way more effective as well as economical then a skimmer, besides having a good place to raise pods etc. I am considering a 20H with the mesh suspended partially up out of the tank 8-10".
 
videos

videos

watching the videos brought this into much better focus, plus seeing the diy variations gave a lot more food for thought, I am going to be playing with some variations and looking forward to it, I can see a use for a lot of totes/stock tanks etc,

my thanks to all who were discussing this, I am liking more and more what I have learned on this.
 
Hey guys, here's a pic of my ghetto scrubber. I couldn't get consistent water flowing across the screen when I had it vertically hanging from a pipe so I went with something a little different. The screens on the right had been growing for a little while, but the ones one the left were brand new 2 days ago and they already have growth. I think I may add one more light eventually, but I am open to other suggestions.

IMG_02881.jpg
 
Hello Everyone !

First like to say thanks to this thread and participants, you perked an interest into utilizing the ATS systems in my project. As a result, I found one of the best applications in the world in Terre Haute Indiana at Indoor Aquatics (recently rated as world's best too in an aquatic magazine) they have several hundred tanks (I estimate 300 to 500) all running on primarily all ATS units. Drove 6 hours just to see their facility and systems, and it was a fantastic trip, the people there are unbelievably helpful, friendly and live this hobby with a passion. I wish to thank Eric for spending so much quality time in assisting in my project and education. Just got back two days ago and been revamping my hybrid system build to include a core centre piece ATS (over 940 square inches, bucket dump type) which I purchased this weekend because of seeing ATSs in proven application and performance (some tanks running for over 17 years on nothing but a ATS and no water changes! Definitely worth the trip if you ever have the chance.

As for my ATS, here it is home, I need to do some lighting and modifications to integrate it into my build. The second picture is one of many of the scrubbers in service at Inland Aquatics.

This is my first tank and system, but it is not a typical one, and it has been named "Morpheus" (Greek God of "shaper of dreams") and also it is a creature that has taken on a will of its own and keeps changing (I hope my corals grow as well as this creature did .... from the idea of a simple salt water reef tank .... to a 330g ... to a custom built 525g display tank, then added two 4'X8' sumps (470g filters & live rock; and 275 DSB and pump sump), another 4'x6' 180g refugium with 5 different algae compartments, 4-Becket 12"x60" custom Bashi Skimmer and moving Bio-Filter of 12"x48",and a group/series of aux tanks for an additional 700g. It is being designed as a "systems approach" of a Hybrid system, integrating various technologies and components together, investigating and engineering each component to be the best I can make it and work in concert with a balanced but redundant subsystems. Still lots of work to do, but things are on the fast track. Will be starting a post shortly with complete CAD drawings and initial photographs.

Thanks again for the introduction into understanding of ATS.
 
So, if I have this straight, a 600 gallon system would need a screen about 25 by 25 lit from both sides? With a turnover per hour of ~ 600 gallons??

Or what am I leaving out?

Lit from both sides screen would be good, but flow would need to be atleast 875 gph.
 
It lays horizontal, lit with 4' VHO bulbs from the hood; The flow is 1200 to 1800 gph.
Have to run by-passes with diverting gate valves for balancing. Flow comes partially to the AST from both systems. The 525g has double supplies at 4X to 6X changes (2,100 gph to 3,150 gph). There is a lot to the sumps and why are large. Can't run two ATS in the system or they starve each other and neither works and die out.
 
Hey guys, here's a pic of my ghetto scrubber. I couldn't get consistent water flowing across the screen when I had it vertically hanging from a pipe so I went with something a little different. The screens on the right had been growing for a little while, but the ones one the left were brand new 2 days ago and they already have growth. I think I may add one more light eventually, but I am open to other suggestions.

IMG_02881.jpg

Add another light, get the bulbs about 4 inches away. Clean the brown algae every three days till it turns green, the start the 7 day cleaning schedule.
 
Well I promised to report back, so I am, It's 4 days, and the brown slimy algae smells horrible, but the screens are covered with diatomatious slime algae. SWEET! It's working. Now the unexpected benefit of the new design revealed itself. I was able to take one of the two screens out, and scrub it off, and leave the other in so that filtration would not be interrupted for a few days till the algae comes in. Now in another three days, I'll take out the second one, and scrape it, and I expect that the first one will then have enough growth to compensate. I can just put them on alternating schedules and reduce the shock of cleaning each time. Sounds perfect!

Cheers,
Aaron
 
So, if I have this straight, a 600 gallon system would need a screen about 25 by 25 lit from both sides? With a turnover per hour of ~ 600 gallons??

Or what am I leaving out?

I would try to design it around a standard T5HO fixture or lamp. The ones with the grow lamps I use (PlantMax 3000K red/bloom) are only 24" and 48". So your screen would be 22" wide and 27" tall, needing 22x35=770 GPH and then you would need 12 T5HO lamps on each side, one every 2 inches roughly. Odyssea makes a 4 lamp fixture that is 7.5" wide, so 3 of these per side. It sounds huge, and it is, but also highly efficient.

You could also break it up into sections, like 3 separate 200g filters. Also you could use one 48" section (a 400 gallon) and one 24" 200 gallon. There are several ways to skin the cat. But I would start with the lighting fixture and build around that. Sounds like a highly customized need for such a large system.
 
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