algea scrubber

1. I was quite simply asking for a place where I can go and read more about the phenols, skatoles and creosols that were brought up. Like I said, I would be happy to believe that these are a problem, I'd just love to see more information about it.

And I linked to sources and indicated where you can find information, if you wish to. Whether you believe or not is irrelevant. The information is out there, but there is no reason for any of us to do the research for someone else. We did it for ourselves, pass it on, and now it is up to the individual to seek knowledge.

This is because, the more time I spend on these boards, the more skeptical I become of statements that are presented as fact, which are quite simply not true. Example:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=17787416&postcount=41

I will not address this issue, it is done strictly to be inflammatory, incite further debate, and is inappropriate. I will not reiterate, or withdraw anything.

2. But you're absolutely right about the value to be found in physical texts. My last pharmacology professor recently told us that hes been teaching for decades, and has yet to find a better explanation of a particular mechanism than was originally printed in one of his books. Maybe it's finally time for me to pick up a copy of The Reef Aquarium by Delbeek and Sprung :)

Maybe it is, but only you know for sure.
 
I've been running an ATS for about 18 months with no other form of filtration (not even a filter sock). It most definitely works. Conversion from a 5 year old FOWL with consistantly high nitrates (50+PPM) and off the chart P04. Now everything is rock solid at 0.

I've never tried a skimmer, but would like to give a good skimmer a try to see if I can get increased growth out of my SPS.

It would be a lot of fun to see your setup. What are you using for screen, light, and flow? Got any pics?
 
id let the skimmer run for about a month then shut it down.. i had one that worked great after about 2 months... youll love how clear the water is
 
FWIW I'm working on turf scrubbers for both of my systems. I think they have a ton of potential, just wish I'd thought to add them earlier!
 
but let's qualify his aquarium: Not a "reef" tank, by the typical appearance/definitions - and more importantly how many of us just go out to the beach, and get our water for water changes??? he is using reverse flow undergravel filtering as well...

LOL, I love being an odd ball. And it is true that I do not have a traditional reef tank.
My tank came about before the internet and all the cookie cutter reef tanks that many, but not all hobbiests have.
I only used about 10 gallons of real water in my tank this year, I was just too busy to collect water and I only collected some mud for the bacteria twice. I don't know if that qualifies as using NSW.
As for why you don't see reverse ug filters, that is an easy one. When this hobby started in 1971 we all had fresh water tanks, well the people who were born anyway.
I also had a fresh water tank for 20 years already but I recently converted it to brackish.
The UG filter lauded by Robert Straughn (The Father of Salt Water Fish Keeping) was the only device around. It was that or nothing. The problem was not with the UG filter but with the way we used it. Even Straughn did not understand about the bacteria aspect of the filter but he, like all of us used it as a particulate filter. Using it like this is a disaster and it will crash in 6 or 7 months forcing us to remove everything to clean it and the gravel in buckets of fresh water with a hose. We didn't want bacteria in our gravel and the dead coral branches were easy to remove to clean.
Years later when most of those authors you mentioned got into the hobby (Moe was the only one then, he started when I did) Tanks started to get more elaborate and we gradually learned about the advantages of bacteria. It was no longer easy to remove everything from the tank to clean the gravel so we (or most people) went to other more user friendly systems like bio balls and SSBs.
Algae was rampant but that is for another thread.
Anyway, the UG filter was not bad but we used it completely incorrectly.
It is extreamly efficient because it encompases the entire bottom of the tank as opposed to say a DSB which only exposes the top layer of sand to the water.
(Yes I know about the worms that dig in the sand and allow some slight water movement) I figured that if I could have the benefits of the UG filter without the clogging problem, I could make it work. I added a sponge filter on the inlet and ran it very slow and backwards.
I experimented for a number of years to get it so that there is practically no maintenance. Just a few minutes a couple of times a year and after 25 years I did a thorough cleaning. I am not sure if that is too much maintenance for some people.
But anyway, the "Experts" in this hobby were all writing about "New" methods of running a tank. I happen to be a friend of Bob Goemans, he was pushing live sand and still does. When he saw my tank 20 years ago he was amazed that it was running so long with almost no maintenance using an UG filter.
No one wanted to go "backwards" to mention a UG filter for fear of ruining their reputation. Also a UG filter is very cheap and it lasts forever. Marketing such a thing would be suicide for a manufacturer. Bio balls were expensive and required a large container with a complicated (and expensive) spray bar.

As for the algae trough, I have had one on and off for 50 years or so in salt and fresh tanks. My design collects no detritus at all and again only takes a couple of minutes every few months to maintain. It cost about $2.00 to make.

I would like to tell a story about "Old Technology" Old technology does not mean useless technology. (The pyramids are still standing the last time I looked)
I was the general foreman electrician in the Plaza Hotel. We were doing a major overhaul of the building. It was built in 1907, just before electricity was widely used in NY.
The ejector pumps in the basement that pumped out the sewage were installed in 1907 and were powered by steam, no electricity. They worked flawlessly for almost 100 years. Then they needed some parts. The parts were no longer made so we installed three state of the art 3 Phase electric pumps controlled by an elaborate computer system. In the three years I worked there, we changed that system twice. :wavehand:

Why do the various speakers at MACNA or other conferences not keep pushing this system as *THE* approach for a better aquarium system????

I'm a speaker, well I spoke twice and I push the system. Not too hard because I like having the oldest system around :lmao:
 
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Being this is an algae scrubber thread, here is my, no maintenance, no power, no electric, no detritus 5' long algae trough.
Have fun guys. :wavehand:

Algaetrough001.jpg
 
I've always wondered, is there any reason that freshwater guys don't use algae scrubbers? Are there any principles applied here that are specific to saltwater?
 
It is over the tank just under and to the rear of the lights, it uses "waste" light that would just go to lighting the back of the tank. It also uses the return water from the skimmer (I don't have a sump, that is a a new invention)
The trough is 5' long and 4" wide, the water is 1/2" deep.
 
I just added this very basic ats to an existing 2 tank system 3 weeks ago.
IMAG0094.jpg

IMAG0095.jpg

Here are the two tanks, and here is the screen at the two week mark.
IMAG0126.jpg

I don't have a current pic, but the screen has more green on it this week, and is filling in faster.
 
Paul, it's great to see you brought your experience to this thread. People are so quick to jump on the idea of using algae as a means of filtration, the main argument being that it didn't work years ago... But the skilter filter didn't really work years ago (I had one :lolspin:) and methodologies change. And as long as a person isn't being sold on the idea of immediate results and one-size-fits-all operation, why not play with the idea? IMO a big part of the fun in this hobby is found in the experimentation.

If I remember correctly, you had mentioned a while back that you use a piece of cement in part of your trough and it really grows algae well. For a while now I have been wanting to build an algae scrubber where the entire "screen" to grow algae on is made out of reef sand/cement. Do you think there would be any downsides to it? The reason I want to use cement is because I actually am planning on making a tabletop display out of it.
 
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Fishoutawater- That screen looks great. I read on another forum that the darker algae can be a sign of high nutrient content in the water, but as it breaks in, the screen is likely to populate lighter-green algae that may be a sign of decreasing nutrients. What I also read on another forum is that many people consider it to be very important to clean the screen once a week "no matter what it looks like" in order to free up some real estate for different species of algae to take hold.

BTW, what's your system volume, other filtration (skimmer?), and the light/flow rate for your screen?
 
IMO a big part of the fun in this hobby is found in the experimentation.
If it is not "fun" why are you doing it? It is a hobby, if it was not fun, we would call it work. I also think many people take this way to seriously. If a fish dies, it dies. I eat fish almost every day and for every fish I eat, millions of tons were killed to be eaten.
I am sorry for their loss but I got to eat. I don't eat red meat so I guess cows like me.
Now I don't want fish hate mail, my fish live long, comfortable lives, (some almost 20 years) they can watch whatever they like on TV and they eat better them me.
As for your question, I use a cement infused screen on my algae trough. I take a plastic window screen and rough it up as well as I can with a power sander. Then I smear wet mortor on it. Mortor sticks better than cement. It is just cement with lime in it.
Smear it on and let it sit flat on some wet newspaper with some more wet paper or foil over it. Keep it moist. In a day or two put more mortor on it. After a few damp days some of the cement should be sticking to it. If not, do it again. Sometimes it takes a few tries but it will stick eventually. I even make my rocks like this.
Take that finished screen and soak it in water for a week or two. Three would be better.
If any algae is going to grow in your system, it will grow on that. Algae loves cement.
Coraline algae also loves it. In my tank, the rocks I built have much more coraling algae on them than the real rocks and if algae is going to grow, it will grow on them first.
I am sure the lime in the cement has something to do with it along with the silicates.

the main argument being that it didn't work years ago...

It worked years ago and it worked when dinosaurs were here. It always worked. I like to have algae in my reef for the health benefits it gives to the water, not just the fact that the trough keeps algae off my corals.
If there is no algae at all in my system, I know something is wrong.
Some algae is a good sign, no algae is a really bad sign. It grows on every healthy reef in the world. :wavehand:
 
system volume is around 400 gallons for the two tanks, they share a 75 gallon sump. They both drain into filter socks and there is a euroreef skimmer as well, don't know the model, it runs with a sedra5000 and has a 4" neck.

The tanks are underfiltered in my opinion and nutrients are high, which is why I chose this system to try a scrubber on. The screen is 20" x 14" and is lit with 4 23w cfl spiral bulbs. It's a bit undersized for this setup, but if results are good over the next several weeks I will replace it with a more efficient, higher capacity scrubber. Not sure on the flow rate, probably in the 6-800 gph range.

I will leave the skimmer running regardless, possibly putting it on a timer to run opposite the scrubber lights in the future.
 
Here is the screen at week 3 right before harvest. Nitrates have not started dropping yet, hopefully in the next two to three weeks I will see them start coming down. Not trying to jack the thread, just thought people would be interested in seeing the progression.
IMAG0150.jpg
 
I've been running my ATS i made for about 3 months now (2 months skimmerless) couldnt be happier. phos and trates are both 0 my corals are getting all the food they want. I feed like a mad man just because I can.
I clean my screen once a week no matter hwat it looks like. This kills the pods off the screen and prevents them eating holes in my turf and yellowing the water. From what I can see you only get yellow water if you don't clean the screen.
I've got more pods than 6 mandarins could consume.
my phos and trates were higher with jsut the skimmer less food and less light.
Honestly i think its the most awesome (and cheapest) piece of equipment on my system (120g w 55g sump, several soft and hard corals and 3 fish.
while running jsut the skimmer I was having GHA problems likley becuase the person who had the LR before me failed and it was full of soaked up phos.
Well after 2 months of running the scrubber my GHA is ALL gone. so is my cheato, the scrubber just out compete for the same nutrients.

SantaMonica has been running his test system since August 2008 with loads of corals and not a single water change. He doses elements. Not saying you shouldnt do water changes ( I do 10% a week) but he's done it without them for 2.5 years with the help of the scrubber.
 
Fishoutawater- That screen looks great. I read on another forum that the darker algae can be a sign of high nutrient content in the water, but as it breaks in, the screen is likely to populate lighter-green algae that may be a sign of decreasing nutrients. What I also read on another forum is that many people consider it to be very important to clean the screen once a week "no matter what it looks like" in order to free up some real estate for different species of algae to take hold.

BTW, what's your system volume, other filtration (skimmer?), and the light/flow rate for your screen?

Widmer,
The point of cleaning it once a week is to kill the copepods on the screen to keep them from eating holes in your turf. If you get holes in yuor turf it will start releasing alot of the nutrients that it's taken from the water back into the water and thats when you get yellowed water. The other reason of course is to export the nutrients that the algae has grown to get it out of the tank. If you let the algae grow too thick it will start falling off on its own because the outside algae can't reach the screen to hold on.

Only clean one side of the screen at a time so that you always have a bunch of algae in there filtering for you. :)
 
Thanks for the info jstdv8. So since yours sounds like it may have reached an equilibrium per se, what does the variety of algae look like which dominates it?

I'm getting really excited to set mine up along with my next system. Definitely going to be making a display out of it- picture one of those tabletop fountains that were really trendy a year ago, except this will of course be functional :)
 
It's got some really thick reddish brown stuff on the base against the screen and then some hair algae looking stuff outside of that. Looks alot like everyone elses that is having success. I will say that it seemes to me that no matter what algae you have growing on there if its thick it will be draining your trates and phos.
Even at the beginning when my screen was only growing diatoms and a little green alage my numbers were at 0. Just goes to show how powerfull a truely grown in one must be if it works that well when its hardly working at all.
 
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