Anyone Switch BACK to MH/T5 from LED?

SkullV

They Got My Number
I know there was a thread like this before but it was all current LED users saying how much they love their LEDs. We get it, you like your LEDs :spin1:

Just wondering if there was anyone out there that has switched BACK to MH/T5 from LED and why? I'm about to pay for 2 of the Radion (Ecotech) fixtures tonight and want to make sure I'm not making a mistake switching over to LED.
 
i would warn about overall led color. i went back to mh on a tank, but that was due to it being too much power and too warm of a color. I would suggest making one so you can adjust the color. going with cree's and those sockets may be better to safeguard the color issue. but if you want sleek fixture then a non diy would be the best. what leds are in those lights?
 
They are all Cree's in that Fixture- here are the specs from Ecotech- except for the Red LED

Dimensions

Length: 11.8 inches (30 cm)
Width: 7 inches (18 cm)
Thickness: 1.5 inches (3.9 cm)

LED

• 8x Cree XP-G Cool White LEDs run at 5W each
• 8x Cree XP-E Blue LEDs run at 3W each
• 10x Cree XP-E Royal Blue LEDs run at 3W each
• 4x Cree XP-E Green LEDs run at 3W each
• 4x Osram Oslon SSL Hyper Red LEDs run at 3W each
 
I actually do not like the blue leds, i do not like the color and im not just talking about the chinese ones but also the crees. There is just something about them i dislike, this is obviously personal opinion and i have no actual experience growing corals with leds so take it for what that is worth. I still have the fixture i built but i do not intend to grow corals with it, for that i will go back to my favored t5 fixtures.

Jose
 
I know for sure I will be getting either this fixture or a DIY in 2012- depending on what ReefLedLights will have in store by the new year
 
I used to have a Solaris fixture and it was a nightmare finding parts for it and I wasnt getting that much growth. After I finally sold it, I went with an ati powermodule and was very skeptical to try LEDs again, but bulbs were getting expensive every year, the wife hated it because the light spread blinded you when you were trying to watch tv!
(Not an issue with led optics)

But leds have come a long way, especially with the DIY options now. They're looking more and more professional and I like that I can always add leds to it if I want. Not to mention its cheaper to diy and you get a lot more leds for your money.
 
Definitely try to read some of the technical reviews on that light or see if you can pick up sanjays speech from MACNA.
 
I find Ecotech's decision to incorporate a RGB mixture of LEDs in order to achieve a similar color spectrum as a Radium mH lamp very intriguing...

I wonder if this may become the new landscape of Aquarium LED fixtures and DIYs in the future...I guess only time will tell.

I'm also intrigued by extremely small footprint and yet so large a spread of light. The PAR readings stated in the Mr Saltwater video seems impressive presuming they are fairly accurate. Makes me wonder if most people are over designing (in regards to the amount of LEDs) their DIYs and subsequently "over-lighting" their tanks...

just goes to show that we've still only just scrathed the surface of Aquarium LED lighting...
 
I set up the new AI nano over my sump and the actual par readings are no where like reported/advertised. Directly under an LED array, in 3 inches of water, 100 power I was getting ~350 par. Still very good for 10 LED diodes, but not quite there for light demanding acros in deeper water.
 
I set up the new AI nano over my sump and the actual par readings are no where like reported/advertised. Directly under an LED array, in 3 inches of water, 100 power I was getting ~350 par. Still very good for 10 LED diodes, but not quite there for light demanding acros in deeper water.

did you have the par meter under sunlight calibration?
also par meters do not read leds correctly, but its been estimated that most meters read about 10% less than whats actually there.

eric according to my par meter that mop is around 100 par still on the sandbed
 
i tested my mhs on my 90g for par in the past and i had 40 par on the sandbed where i had my frogspawn growing great. so is 300+ par really needed for sps?
 
i tested my mhs on my 90g for par in the past and i had 40 par on the sandbed where i had my frogspawn growing great. so is 300+ par really needed for sps?

Yes, only really needed for sticks. I keep my LPS at 150 PAR or lower.

10% is really minimal when talking about only a 35 PAR difference. I've placed my MOP frag up where it is getting 700 PAR. WT said it must be blasted with light to get the blue plasma look, so I'm giving it a try.
 
also par meters do not read leds correctly, but its been estimated that most meters read about 10% less than whats actually there.
that's very interesting, as I did not know that...
I've read a few "review" articles that specified using an Apogee Quantum par meter but never mentioned adjusting the readings...

what is it about the light source that would create a false reading?
 
There is nothing on my Apogee meter to calibrate or adjust it. It's on/off.

I've only read/heard that PAR meters aren't picking up all the PAR on Blue LEDs only, not whites.
 
I pretty much started with LEDs. I'm now using a combination of LEDs (DIY) and T5s. I like the combination. I'm getting the intensity and shimmer effects from the LEDs, and the overall spread from the T5s.
 
I have not been able to pull the trigger because I do not know how long LEDs last. And I do not believe the 50,000 hour figure provided by manufacturers.
 
I was very impressed by the Radion at MACNA... I am just about convinced to try LED's on one of my tanks... Just not sure upon the manufacturer yet... :) Then again, I may go DIY...
 
Wow, that Radion fixture looks impressive. Thanks for mentioning it - I haven't heard of it before. Looking forward to reviews of the final units.
 
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