your question has been answered but you won't accept that answer because it doesn't fit your bias. Nothing we can do about that.
An led's true plot isn't within 5% of a halide's. Not even close. Again, i doubt you've seen a true plot.
But in the end, if you're happy with your tank then that's great! That's what this hobby is about.
d2 - I am not sure what LED units you were running and what you actually compared it to, but here is my experience with just one configuration.
I had five AI Sol Blu units over each of my two 220 gallon tanks. The tanks are on either side of my fireplace in identical built in cabinets. I decided to swap out the number 2 and number 4 AI units for 250 watt MH, running XM 20k bulbs on "boosted" electronic ballasts. Those ballasts were selectable for 250, 250+ and 400 watt. I ran pendants, not retros. I finished one tank and turned them on. It was almost impossible to tell the one tank from the other visually. The tank with Sol/MH/Sol/MH/Sol looked identical to the all Sol Blu tank at 55% settings on all channels.
I recently converted the three Sol Blu units over each tank to Hydra 52's and replaced the MH units with the old Sol Blu units. At 50% white, 75% blue, 15% green/red on the Hydras and 55% on the Sol Blu (all colors), it was dramatically brighter than the other tank before it's update, not a question at all.
So, my experience with two tanks virtually next to each other and the ability to stand back 20'-30' from the tank was virtually the opposite. The LED tank was far brighter even at reduced settings given the MH setup it was compared against.
Now, I like a tank to appear more white than blue also, so I do not try to run my LED's to look like a radium and I do not get that disco effect people talk about.
Time will tell. One tank is LPS Sofitie and one is filled with SPS frags with more coming from Adam at Battle Corals after the Holidays.
I will not put the MH back on my tanks. I do not like to deal with the heat. If I am unhappy with the color, I might supplement with some T5's.
Your question has been answered but you won't accept that answer because it doesn't fit your bias. Nothing we can do about that.
An LED's true plot isn't within 5% of a halide's. Not even close. Again, I doubt you've seen a true plot.
But in the end, if you're happy with your tank then that's great! That's what this hobby is about.
I was excited to learn that Dana Riddle is working with Nick at Build My Led to do a study on the impact of coral growth using different combinations of LED lights. I understand the study will be completed by end of Q1 2015. The theory is that the less attractive color rendition probably supports the best growth like what folks experienced with a 6500K MH lamp. The idea that one could dial in the "ugliness" during the day with their LEDs and bring up the more appealing lamp colors when folks are at home viewing the tank is breakthrough thinking. That makes the LEDs a valuable alternative to other lighting schemes.
Drwhoreefer I am not going to quote you but here is a response that hopefully you can understand from this back woods redneck reefer who still trust metal halide but has spent $1K + on LEDs up to this point. Comparison on two tanks: my friends 65 gallon who currently has two Vegas, one that has lost half of its leds in less than two years and my 65 that has one 250w MH pendant. His tank looks very nice, grows coral, but up to this point he has $1,100 invested in his LEDs, I have $80 for Pendant and ballast with $60 for a new lamp and it grows corals very well also. I have to replace my lamp soon and I will spend another $60. Since his fixture is out of the one year warranty he has to spend $200 for the upgrade on the bad fixture, but since it won't match now he will be upgrading both for $400. So he has $1,500 invested to light up his 65 gallon which grows corals and looks great and saving energy but I hope you can agree a great cost to his wallet?
Fact or Theory
Last year on my 300 I had one lamp that was 24 months old and one that was brand new, to the eye no one could pick out which lamp was which with no change in color or intensity. With a PAR and foot candle meter I could tell there was about a 9% output difference, two months later the now 26 month lamp dropped rapidly to 15% so it was changed. That is a fact!
LEDs last 50,000 hours, that is a theory based on 10 years operation with a 30% drop in those ten years. I want to see a study by Ecotech that shows Gen 1 on a test tank with corals and gives the PAR values from year one to year five showing how much it dropped in output and by raising the light levels they were able to maintain the same PAR levels over those years. The same with Gen 2, Gen3, and from AI Sol's and Reef Breeders. That way when someone talks about LEDs we can have the facts. And then if it is not too much a five to ten year warranty on their light fixture that they claim will last ten years, because for ten years and $1,500 I can buy a bunch of lamps and electricity.
This is one huge advantage leds have over any other fixture right now and what I was referring to as color-shifts.
This is one huge advantage leds have over any other fixture right now and what I was referring to as color-shifts.
Same here.BTW - I can grow coral with LED, and did. It just was not as good - nowhere near as good.
BTW2 - I love it how slight spectrum shift in a MH bulb over 2 years is a huge negative, but changing the spectrum all the time with a LED is a huge benefit.
Ok then, still nobody answers my question.
If you have two light sources that have identical spectrum, mh and led, other than intensity, how are they different?
spectrum |ˈspektrəm|
noun (pl. spectra |-trə| or spectrums)
1 a band of colors, as seen in a rainbow, produced by separation of the components of light by their different degrees of refraction according to wavelength.
Your "huge advantage" did diddly squat for me.
And it can still be accomplished with any mh/t5 combo fixture like the one I own.
Two banks of two T5's, plus the MH's. Run a lower kelvin MH during peak hours and then you have an array of T5's to choose from to give you a couple steps of higher kelvins.
The only thing you lose out on is that slow, almost invisible ramping up and down which makes zero difference in real world use.
LED is not new. LED is not getting better. It is what it is - a piecemeal of spectrum pointing one way. The piecemeal could be different, I guess. It is going to be like this for a long time until somebody comes up with a wide spectrum diode or at least something with 360 degree output that can be spread. It seems to me that something that would screw into a Lumenarc, Hammy or Sunlight reflector where the mogul went would be pretty smart.
Again, you did NOT read my post.
1) LEDs can NOT have the same "spectrum" as light produced from metal halide; it is a physical impossibility.
LEDs produce light using P/N junctions. P/N junctions are the same technology used in making microchips and create mini-transistors that science has been making smaller and smaller by the year. The material used to make these junctions determines the wavelength of light produced by an LED. Let me say that another way. The wavelength of light produced by an LED is determined by the material used in making the LED. Scientists have found several suitable materials which can create several different LED "colors" and they found that mixing these LEDs can fool the human eye into "seeing" even more colors. What LEDs do NOT do is produce a broad spectrum of light as is created by a metal halide bulb or a fluorescent bulb. LED light is different; it can NOT have a broad spectrum. Period, dot, end of story.
There are numerous studies that have examined how symbiodinium grow under artificial light created by metal halide and even in depth research into the absorption curve and reflectivity of broad spectrum light. In that research scientists found that symbiodinium response seemed to differ with different wavelengths, but no research I have seen has shown whether light from sources that have very narrow wavelengths alters the response of symbiodinium as compared to broad spectrum light. There are more scientific reasons why LED light is different but I'm not going to waste time typing what I already typed above. Prove to me that you are listening at all and go find my previous posts on LED light and then show me the scientific papers that have studied these issues with regard to symbiodinium, and while you're at it why not go find the papers that DO exist on symbiodinium and artificial light.
If you like LEDs that is awesome. This is a hobby and you should use the light you enjoy most. This thread is a place where some very experienced reefers, myself included, are sharing their experience with LEDs and saying that something is different about how SPS grow under LEDs especially given the fact that LEDs are so varied in their application. If you disagree with that FACT then I'm afraid we simply have to agree to disagree.
How 'bout some pictures of your reef while we're at it. Or perhaps some macros of the awesome colors you are getting.
Here are some of mine. . .
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IIRC white LEDs are full spectrum, like most white light. The Cree cool white in the AI hydra look like crap all on their own.
The real magic in Mh is the reflector. Without that it is just a point source light bulb. LED needs to mimic that spread. I think without a reflector would be better. It does mean the fixtures should probably look more like T-5 fixtures than the AI and echotec fixtures.