anyone tried to using Jebo WP40?

[bhazard451]

Man that sucks. So do we have an option yet to get this hooked up via 5v pwm reef angel?

Did you get a power supply for the led converter?

Yeah, I had one lying around. Powered up the converter and the pump wouldn't spin. Someone would need to measure what is coming out of the VA point, or someone more knowledgeable in electric engineering would have to take a look.

So does that mean it is a no go with the apex? Or is more experimenting needed?

More experimenting needed.

 

[dartier]

Don't give up just yet. The VA line has to either be voltage controlled, current controlled or PWM controlled. Once we have good data we an decide on how to interface it to the RA and the other controllers.

Dennis

 

[dartier]

To the people who have a pump and have had the controller open, can you read off the STC part number please? The photo that Ron posted has the part number obscured by the voltage regulator.

Also it would be great of you could look at the traces on the board and follow the VA line back to the microcontroller and post the pin that the VA line is connected to. Testing for continuity between the VA line and the pins of the uC is also an option.

Dennis

 

[slajiness]

Ordered 1 for a 125g build I'm doing. Do they send you the plug for US or am I going to have to buy one.

 

[bhazard451]

They sent US plugs with mine.

 

[slajiness]

Ok iti took about 11 days to get here. I guess I should start reading the rest of this thread.

 

[bhazard451]

STC Microcontroller 12C5202AD 35I-PDIP20. VA pin has a capacitor and a resistor on the trace, and seems to be connected to the top farthest right pin. Its hard to tell.

Would I be able to splice into the VA wire with the PWM output of the stevesled converter safely, so that the wire is still connected to the board?

 

[bhazard451]

Ok Guys! I got my MP40 today and it works great! I quickly went to modding it to try and figure out if I could control it with PWM. It worked like a charm I am able to control the intensity of all modes. The awesome part about all of this is that I can control it with any 0-10v controller IE Apex. The crappy part is that I sold my Apex JR awhile back with my DIY LED's. Looks like I will be buying one soon as well as a VDM module.

Ok, where did you get those extra blue wires from, and how did you hook them up? I don't have those coming from the pump.

Can you make a quick tutorial for us as well?

 

[treetopflyn]

Just got conformation that mine has shipped. Yahooo!!!!

 

[SimonSKL]

Ok Guys! I got my MP40 today and it works great! I quickly went to modding it to try and figure out if I could control it with PWM. It worked like a charm I am able to control the intensity of all modes. The awesome part about all of this is that I can control it with any 0-10v controller IE Apex. The crappy part is that I sold my Apex JR awhile back with my DIY LED's. Looks like I will be buying one soon as well as a VDM module.

Ok, where did you get those extra blue wires from, and how did you hook them up? I don't have those coming from the pump.

Can you make a quick tutorial for us as well?

I can only get this side of the circuit board. It appears it is 'attached to the box on the other side, maybe for the pushbutton controls? I tried to pry it out but I was concerned I might break it rather than get it out.

How come the board posted by Floyd78 is so different from the one posted by Ron Reefman?

 

[bhazard451]

Floyd installed a 24V PWM module into it. I just don't know how he hooked it up, as I can't see where those extra blue and red wires are connected.

 

[artkwan]

This Stinks!!! In a good way! Now I want one!!

 

[Ron Reefman]

Well, I hope you guys get it figured out. But since I don't have a reef controller yet, I'm very happy with the timer control on the pump controller and the speed control with the 15-24v power converter. Now I'm just waiting on the WP25.
Good luck guys.

 

[dartier]

Ok Guys! I got my MP40 today and it works great! I quickly went to modding it to try and figure out if I could control it with PWM. It worked like a charm I am able to control the intensity of all modes. The awesome part about all of this is that I can control it with any 0-10v controller IE Apex. The crappy part is that I sold my Apex JR awhile back with my DIY LED's. Looks like I will be buying one soon as well as a VDM module.

Ok, where did you get those extra blue wires from, and how did you hook them up? I don't have those coming from the pump.

Can you make a quick tutorial for us as well?

Based on the photo and his description, Floyd installed a 24V PWM module inline with the 24V power to the pump. It allows him to reduce the speed the same as the variable power supplies do.

Dennis

 

[dartier]

STC Microcontroller 12C5202AD 35I-PDIP20. VA pin has a capacitor and a resistor on the trace, and seems to be connected to the top farthest right pin. Its hard to tell.

Would I be able to splice into the VA wire with the PWM output of the stevesled converter safely, so that the wire is still connected to the board?

Thanks bhazard. Although I can't find the part number listed, it is probably just a special use version, perhaps with reduced memory or mask programmed rather than flashed.

In any case, those are all 3 - 5.5V parts and based on your description of the pin that the VA line appears to be going to (and using Ron's photo), I conclude that it is hooked to the PWM0 output through a 1K resistor.

So this means it is a 5V PWM control from the controller to the pump.

You definitely HAVE to disconnect the VA wire from the board to use the converter you have purchased.

However, if you don't want to mangle your board, and want to test your converter, you could plug the 24V power and 5V PWM directly into the connector to the pump without using the controller. You would have to be very, very careful to make sure you have the pins properly identified before doing this as reversing the polarity, or putting +24V down the 5V PWM line will be the end of your pump, or at the very least, the end of it being able to be controlled.

If you proceed either with cutting the VA wire, or taking the controller out of the picture, let us know how you make out.

Dennis

 

[dartier]

Also can anyone provide the part number on the Voltage regulator. It is the chip with the heatsink tab. If you need to stand it up to see it, do it gently and slowly.

Just want to make sure this is not running 3.3V

Dennis

 

[treetopflyn]

Do you guys think I will "need" a converter on a converter on my 105G- 48"x 24"X 21" tank?

 

[SeedlessOne]

Okay Dennis thanks for all the input so far.

Once I get my pump I will desolder the va wire from the board. I will then solder a new wire to the va pin and then out to pwm pigtails. Once this is wired up like this it should be a simple as changing the pwm % on my reefangel correct? I've seen the code Roberto tested but I'm looking for the easiest way to test once it's wired up to my ra.

 

[dartier]

Okay Dennis thanks for all the input so far.

Once I get my pump I will desolder the va wire from the board. I will then solder a new wire to the va pin and then out to pwm pigtails. Once this is wired up like this it should be a simple as changing the pwm % on my reefangel correct? I've seen the code Roberto tested but I'm looking for the easiest way to test once it's wired up to my ra.

There are few ways to test this. Once we have the part number of the voltage regulator we can cross reference for 5V support, or someone with a controller and a DMM can test the voltage between pins 10 and 20. Pin 10 is the one where the VA trace passes beside, behind the capacitor. The negative leg of the capacitor is connected to pin 10. Pin 20 is the opposite side of the chip far end (the end of the chip with the notch in the case). In the photo it is at 10 o'clock from the 'S' in STC.

Assuming it is 5V, a simple test would be this. Unsolder the VA wire. Ground the VA wire and the pump should stop (or go full blast). Now connect the VA wire to 5V and the opposite result should occur from being grounded. Pin 10 is ground and pin 20 is VCC (+5V or +3.3V). You can perform the same test even if it is +3.3V. just make sure you connect it to a +3.3V source (like VCC).

If this works (and it is +5V) than simply attach the VA wire to the Reefangel PWM output. If grounded resulted in full power, let Roberto know that the PWM is inverted.

If it turns out to be +3.3V, then you will need a logic level converter between the RA and the VA line. Adafruit and Sparkfun both have some cheap ones (<$4).

Dennis

 

[SeedlessOne]

There are few ways to test this. Once we have the part number of the voltage regulator we can cross reference for 5V support, or someone with a controller and a DMM can test the voltage between pins 10 and 20. Pin 10 is the one where the VA trace passes beside, behind the capacitor. The negative leg of the capacitor is connected to pin 10. Pin 20 is the opposite side of the chip far end (the end of the chip with the notch in the case). In the photo it is at 10 o'clock from the 'S' in STC.

Assuming it is 5V, a simple test would be this. Unsolder the VA wire. Ground the VA wire and the pump should stop (or go full blast). Now connect the VA wire to 5V and the opposite result should occur from being grounded. Pin 10 is ground and pin 20 is VCC (+5V or +3.3V). You can perform the same test even if it is +3.3V. just make sure you connect it to a +3.3V source (like VCC).

If this works (and it is +5V) than simply attach the VA wire to the Reefangel PWM output. If grounded resulted in full power, let Roberto know that the PWM is inverted.

If it turns out to be +3.3V, then you will need a logic level converter between the RA and the VA line. Adafruit and Sparkfun both have some cheap ones (<$4).

Dennis

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
Good stuff. I will have to digest some of this but sounds pretty straight forward. Im sure I may have a question or two.

Was unable to source a scope, so that is out for me. Sorry.

When do you expect your pump in the mail?