anyone tried to using Jebo WP40?

I have not ordered one yet. I was thinking the WP40 would be too big for my 120G so I am waiting to see what the WP25 is first. Since then I have seen comparisons of the Tunze, Koallia and WP40 and it is not as large as I first thought.

I still plan on getting 2 of either the WP25 or WP40 as I want to the 2 outlets freed up in my RA that is being used as a wavemaker.

I have a few projects on the go that I hope to finish first including:

  1. Upgrading my DIY LEDs to LDD drivers on 8 channels
  2. Add 32 PWM channels to RA or Raspberry Pi
  3. Building a new ATS with 20x660nm / 10x440nm each colour dimmable
  4. Building 4 water level meters (similar to the RA version)
  5. Automatic daily water change/ATO using the 2 of the WL meters and 4 osmolator pumps.
  6. 4 head dosing pump controlled over I2C (RA or Raspberry Pi)
  7. Add a solenoid valve and flow meters to the input and waste of my RO/DI
  8. Frag LED for my sump (8 channels)

I have the parts for everything except the last 2 above so I have a bt of a backlog on projects :(

Dennis
 
Man I don't understand why you guys are going through so much work. All you need to get is a 24v PWM module from ebay. Hook it up inline with the 24v output to the pump. You leave the VA line hooked up to retain all the modes to the pump. If you want to just reduce intensity then use the controller or pot to adjust it down. If you want to use your controller to do everything. Put the pump on full blast and use your controller to run its program. The board that you see with the 2 blue wires in my pics is the 24v PWM module to answer the question a few posts back. The 2 blue wires are 0-10v input ran to a pot. In the past I used a PWM module from apex to control So I know this will work with apex. Also I have been running reduced wave mode since Monday with no issues. The only glitch I have found is with the night sensor. I goes into night mode when I turn off one light in the room. Then when I turn all lights out to go to bed it turns wave mode back on. Its no big deal but makes an apex more appealing for me to buy again.
 
floyd78 said:
Man I don't understand why you guys are going through so much work. All you need to get is a 24v PWM module from ebay. Hook it up inline with the 24v output to the pump. You leave the VA line hooked up to retain all the modes to the pump. If you want to just reduce intensity then use the controller or pot to adjust it down. If you want to use your controller to do everything. Put the pump on full blast and use your controller to run its program. The board that you see with the 2 blue wires in my pics is the 24v PWM module to answer the question a few posts back. The 2 blue wires are 0-10v input ran to a pot. In the past I used a PWM module from apex to control So I know this will work with apex. Also I have been running reduced wave mode since Monday with no issues. The only glitch I have found is with the night sensor. I goes into night mode when I turn off one light in the room. Then when I turn all lights out to go to bed it turns wave mode back on. Its no big deal but makes an apex more appealing for me to buy again.
Click to expand...

Can you link me the 24v pwm module you got on eBay? None of them look like yours. The boards look too large to fit in the controller box
 
floyd78 said:
Man I don't understand why you guys are going through so much work. All you need to get is a 24v PWM module from ebay. Hook it up inline with the 24v output to the pump. You leave the VA line hooked up to retain all the modes to the pump. If you want to just reduce intensity then use the controller or pot to adjust it down. If you want to use your controller to do everything. Put the pump on full blast and use your controller to run its program. The board that you see with the 2 blue wires in my pics is the 24v PWM module to answer the question a few posts back. The 2 blue wires are 0-10v input ran to a pot. In the past I used a PWM module from apex to control So I know this will work with apex. Also I have been running reduced wave mode since Monday with no issues. The only glitch I have found is with the night sensor. I goes into night mode when I turn off one light in the room. Then when I turn all lights out to go to bed it turns wave mode back on. Its no big deal but makes an apex more appealing for me to buy again.
Click to expand...

So I assume the Steve's Leds PWM board will not work?
 
I assume this would be too much flow for my 65g (36x18x24)? I am really happy to see a cheaper alternative to a Vortech.
 
serpent said:
So I assume the Steve's Leds PWM board will not work?
Click to expand...

It should as long as its 24 volts. The control voltage is where you are having issues. I would not utilize the boards VA to control the PWM module. You need either a Pot or a controller to control the PWM module. You need to think of it like you are using 2 controllers. The main board is first in line and them the PWM is after the main controller. This way you get all modes of operation as well as the controller you chose to dial down intensity or on off operation to synchronize.
 
Unfortunately I cant find my board on ebay. However you can use any board that uses 24v and at least a few amps. Mine is good to 12 amps but that is overkill for this pump. I will also note that my controller does not fit perfectly there is a gap at the back of the box that is exposed. I just used electrical tape to seal the box. You could utilize a project box from Radioshack if you wish for it all to fit nicely.
 
Well the Steve's led board has a maximum input voltage of 35V, but I guess I can't run the two pumps off this board as expected. I guess I will order 2 24v PWM boards from eBay.


Sent from a tiny virtual keyboard using Tapatalk
 
Just a quick question to those who are using the factory 24V power supply. Does your power supply get hot or warmer than you like? I noticed mine was warmer than I thought it should. I have now been using the variable power supply from Amazon and it is cool to the touch. Of course I am not running it at 24V.
 
floyd78 said:
Man I don't understand why you guys are going through so much work. All you need to get is a 24v PWM module from ebay. Hook it up inline with the 24v output to the pump. You leave the VA line hooked up to retain all the modes to the pump. If you want to just reduce intensity then use the controller or pot to adjust it down. If you want to use your controller to do everything. Put the pump on full blast and use your controller to run its program. The board that you see with the 2 blue wires in my pics is the 24v PWM module to answer the question a few posts back. The 2 blue wires are 0-10v input ran to a pot. In the past I used a PWM module from apex to control So I know this will work with apex. Also I have been running reduced wave mode since Monday with no issues. The only glitch I have found is with the night sensor. I goes into night mode when I turn off one light in the room. Then when I turn all lights out to go to bed it turns wave mode back on. Its no big deal but makes an apex more appealing for me to buy again.
Click to expand...

I think people are wanting to hook these direct to their ReefAngel/Apex/Other controller directly. This will open up the ability to program whatever modes you want at whatever speed you want, not just the ones implemented in the pump controller.

When the control signal is nailed down, the expected outcome is that you will be able to chuck the Chinese pump controller aside entirely and just provide the appropriate 24V power and control signal the onboard uC was sending (down the VA wire).

Best case scenario is a pigtail that accepts the 24V power supply connection, along with the control signal and plugs into the connector the pump has on its cable.

Dennis
 
dartier said:
I think people are wanting to hook these direct to their ReefAngel/Apex/Other controller directly. This will open up the ability to program whatever modes you want at whatever speed you want, not just the ones implemented in the pump controller.

When the control signal is nailed down, the expected outcome is that you will be able to chuck the Chinese pump controller aside entirely and just provide the appropriate 24V power and control signal the onboard uC was sending (down the VA wire).

Best case scenario is a pigtail that accepts the 24V power supply connection, along with the control signal and plugs into the connector the pump has on its cable.

Dennis
Click to expand...

That just gave me an idea. Why don't I just try taking the 24v power wires going into the Jebao controller, and connect them to the 24+ and 24- lines going to the pump directly, instead of going through the controller. VA line to the pump to the PWM output of steveleds. I'll try this later.

Update, the solder points are bridged between m+ 24+ and m- 24-. At the very least, this should get the pump spinning. Lets see if the signal is accepted.

Nope. Pump doesn't spin with a direct connection without VA, and it doesn't do anything with a 5v PWM output signal.

I'll have to wait for my 24v PWM modules, as that seems to be the best option as of now.
 
Last edited:
dartier said:
I think people are wanting to hook these direct to their ReefAngel/Apex/Other controller directly. This will open up the ability to program whatever modes you want at whatever speed you want, not just the ones implemented in the pump controller.

When the control signal is nailed down, the expected outcome is that you will be able to chuck the Chinese pump controller aside entirely and just provide the appropriate 24V power and control signal the onboard uC was sending (down the VA wire).

Best case scenario is a pigtail that accepts the 24V power supply connection, along with the control signal and plugs into the connector the pump has on its cable.

Dennis
Click to expand...

I understand the want involved in this. I guess we just need to understand what the voltage is that is being sent to the pump.
 
floyd78 said:
I understand the want involved in this. I guess we just need to understand what the voltage is that is being sent to the pump.
Click to expand...

Yup. Hopefully someone can do the test of the voltage between pin 10 and 20. That should confirm what the uC chip is running at. Based on the only datasheet I can find for a 20 pin uC from STC, that pin should be a PWM signal.

If it is +5V, then you will need a common ground or an external PWM signal may not be referenced to the same ground potential, which would cause problems with an external PWM signal.

Dennis
 
EllisJuan said:
Anyone? Too much? Can it be turned down and still make waves?
Click to expand...


I don't think it's too large. Youll need to get a variable power supply, or mod the controller with a PWM module. This will allow you to control the speed or GPH of the wp40

I say it's better to have a larger pump turned down than a small one running wide open.
 
EllisJuan said:
Anyone? Too much? Can it be turned down and still make waves?
Click to expand...

I have mine at 50% in a 6ft long tank and there is still a pretty good wave going on. It is a pretty impressive powerhead. I would not want to have it at full power on a tank that is shorter that 6ft.
 
floyd78 said:
I have mine at 50% in a 6ft long tank and there is still a pretty good wave going on. It is a pretty impressive powerhead. I would not want to have it at full power on a tank that is shorter that 6ft.
Click to expand...

+1
I've got mine running on 18v in a 6' long tank and I sure wouldn't want anymore.
 
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