This cable will allow me to connect to my apex and run self created variable speed profile correct? Has anyone tried running any of the preprogrammed Vortech profiles ?
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From what bhazard said yes.
This cable will allow me to connect to my apex and run self created variable speed profile correct? Has anyone tried running any of the preprogrammed Vortech profiles ?
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PM me a link James please. BTW, wth? he was contributing a lot to this site, real bummer he got banned. I hope he is still posting somewhere about this.
I'm on my 3-4th day of using this pump and I've noticed that on W1 mode, when the pump stops and spins again, sometimes the propeller doesn't spin on the first couple rotations and makes a clicking noise like it's trying to start back up but can't. Has anyone else seen this happen? It'll spin again but only after like the 2nd or 3rd attempt. I'll try to get a video of it.
RA is taking pre orders for their jebao cable that should work on the apex and rkl.(
$25 for a cable with parts worth about $5 is a little steep for a $85 pump.
Supply and Demand.
$25 for a cable with parts worth about $5 is a little steep for a $85 pump.
Do you know what parts we need to make our own cable? I would be needed 2 of them and $50 for them is a little too much like you said.
bhazard described earlier in the thread what cables you needed.Do you know what parts we need to make our own cable? I would be needed 2 of them and $50 for them is a little too much like you said.
I'm also interested in making a few of these cables IF someone can confirm that it will work with an Apex.
Thanks! Now I have a shopping list.
Here's a quick one
For Neptune Apex:
0-10v analog input PWM module:
Search ebay for LED DIMMER PWM 10 A.12VDC-24 VDC; POT. or 0-10V control
Cat5e ethernet cord
Wire nuts or solder and heat shrink tubing
Solid core wires (or wires that can handle up to 5A) stevesleds has some
Unscrew the controller casing
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24- is blue
24+ is reddish
VA is green yellow and remains untouched
Cut the blue and red wire about halfway down, so you have enough wire connected to the controller still, and some down the cord.
Add solid core wire to extend the wire length with wire nuts, solder, or some way to connect the wires securely.
The 0-10v PWM module terminals look like this -+ +-
The first -(blue) and +(red) go to the pump wires
The next +(red) -(blue) are the ones connected to the controller internals 24+ and 24- points
The following saves you $14 over getting a neptune vdm cord.
Cut one end of a Cat 5e ethernet cord off.
Keep the following wires:
orange/white wire (positive) - orange wire (negative)
blue/white wire (positive) - green wire (negative)
When plugged into the first VDM port, blue/white green is V1, oranges are V2
Second port, blue white green is V3, oranges V4
On the 0-10v module for V1, connect blue/white to + on 0-10v control input terminal , green to - control.
Put the controller back together in a project box, do a really good job with electrical tape taping the loose box together, or fit it all inside somehow and screw back together.
Set profiles and you're done.
Yeah I saw that post long ago but hoped the RA plug would be an easy solution.
So the RA plug won't work with the pump and Apex? It requires the PWM instead?
So how can my Tunzes connect directly to the Apex? They don't contain a PWM.
According to the RA website their cable is compatable with apex.
The pmw module that bhaz used cost $40
The $25 isn't sounding too bad now
The $25 isn't sounding too bad now lol, but I'm sure there is a less expensive DIY route.
Did we learn anything about this Chinese pump and why they are so popular.