anyone tried to using Jebo WP40?

carlso63 said:
I have a 93 Cube... Just wondering if the wp40 is a good option for a Cube or not. I'd like to make some waves, but wondering if the square footprint will hinder that ability..?
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I have one in a 120 cube (30x30x31") and its perfect. That said, I have it 2/3 of the way down. At that depth the wave effect is minimal in any mode. I have it aming up toward the othe side of the tank (so it disturbs the surface on the opposite side of the tank). The weight of the water being moved makes this pump the right choice. I run it in else mode, though I have run it in all the others for more than a day before I settled on this mode.

I plan to get a wp25 for the other side of the tank and mount it very low for some additional current.

It seems like 2 wp25s would work in your tank, but I wouldn't be afraid of a wp40. And as it has been said, order it withe variable power supply "just in case"

One more thought. This pump, like any other will collect debris, and slow the flow. I always prefer a bit more flow at first because it will get slower.
 
I'd think any heat buildup would be indicitave of a shortened lifespan.
Maybe one of you guys with more than one pump can run one wide open and another at say, 12V, for several hours then pull the impellers out and see if one pump body is warmer than the other. Also check the controllers for warmth.

I noticed electronic components at the rear of the pump, evident through the epoxy. The perforated cirrcular disc has to be removed to inspect this place of potential heat buildup.
 
I haven't seen anything documented wither especially related to this pump, since it's been out such a short time, but if it's a chance you are willing to take great.
Some people don't want to take that chance.

As I said I'm currently using a LED dimmer and waiting for a PWM board.
SimonmSLK I know you are using at least one PWM board and have another one on order.

There is no proof either way that lowering the voltage will reduce the life, but someone stated at one time that it would based on their experience and others have taken to that.
 
dread240 said:
electrical power is wattage... watts are a function of voltage and current

Say a device requires 30 watts to work... at 24v it would have 1.25amps flowing through it to produce 30 watts... at 12v it would now have 2.5 amps for 30 watts of power... and by the time you reduce down to 6v you're now looking at 5 amps

bear in mind... as I said previously I still don't have one of these, and see lots of confusion... so we'll get into how the electrical load of the pump setup would work...

we're going to stick with 30w, it's a nice number and I like it. (actual wattage will vary with speed I'm sure, but I can't verify anything)

24v max speed is as said previously, 1.25amps to make it work

If you maintain 24v and run a 50% duty cycle, your peak amperage stays the same but average current would drop down to .75 amps

Now if you go with 12v for 50% speed and keep it at max constantly on that your amperage is now the 2.5 amps constantly. You can see the difference in current pretty easily right away... .75amp average vs. 2.5amp draw

Trying to drop to 30% speed with pwm vs. voltage is another big hike... .375 amp average on the 24v pwm circuit vs. 4.16 amps on the 7 volt circuit...

Wire, pcb traces, coils, they are all designed around given numbers... Your traces have to be far enough apart so that you can't short between at a given voltage.. and wire insulation must be sufficient for that (these numbers decrease at lower voltages, meaning less insulation and less space... so should never be a problem)

gauge of wire, and width of a pcb trace, as well as the gauge of wire used on the stator of the motor, all must increase in order to carry more current. Otherwise it gets too hot and burns up, or over time breaks down the insulation of the stator and shorts it.

This is the basics of how it works, and why some people have expressed genuine concern with lowering voltage, and it's a valid point. There is ALWAYS an acceptable range, and I don't know exactly what their control is doing or what... that's up to some of the guys that have one to figure it out. As far as I know at this point, that control could be regulating down to 5v anyways and just passing through the supply voltage, which would mean the control is safe but the pump may not be. There could be circuitry in the pump to protect from too much current as well too.

With the unknowns of the project, I personally would just nix their control and build my own 24v pwm circuit to run the pump. That way in my head there would be no question whatsoever as to what the pump was doing or if I was causing any damage to it :thumbsup:
Click to expand...


Best explenation in this thread that I have seen...
This is probably true, but also it is important to note that the pump could have a 10 yr life span and we are cutting it down to 5 years or so... I could live with that... That being said, I am running mine at 24v for now...
 
Maybe I'm being really dumb here, but this pump already operates on a wide range of voltages. If the lower voltages are the most damaging due to higher amperage, then wouldn't the worry be about night mode or L on a variable power supply? On a wave mode or else it wouldn't be low enough for an extended period to cause major heat build up...
 
I think the controller is controlling the signal out to the pump from the controller rather than the voltage.

I had a post on the ReefAngle Forum trying to decide which version I was going to get, part of my question had to do with controlling the WP40 and Roberto's reply was...

There is a big difference on doing what you doing, which is altering the operating the voltage by using whatever you are using and controlling it with analog or PWM signal.
Reducing the operating voltage of a pump, makes it run hotter, less efficiently and reduces its lifetime as opposed to running it on the correct operating voltage and controlling it with an external signal.
Click to expand...

This makes a lot of sense to me and I hope it clears things up for some of you.
 
Well, from goofing around with this pump I can tell you that the controller always delivers 24V to the pump. What changes is the voltage on the "5V" line. The yellow and green wire. At top speed, it has 5V. On low, the voltage is less than 5V. IIRC, it had 3.4V with the controller set to low.

There is no way I'd run these pumps long term with a drop in voltage feeding the controller unless I was sure it did not heat things up.

BTW, I don't think Jeabo is offering a voltage regulator for these pumps, I think Fishstreet is.

Some of you guys know way more about electronics than I do, but I feel not checking for heat is a fundamental error.
 
Ron Reefman said:
The reply I got basically blew me off.

Then a friend of mine called and talked to them about a buying pumps in big numbers for resale here in the US. He asked about factory support and they basically said once the distributor buys the product, Jebao washes their hands of it. It's up to the distributor to decide if they want to make things right for the end user. Jebao doesn't care about you. All they care about is getting the product out the door. If you can find a quality distributor that will back up the product you will be much better off, but I seriously doubt that Fish Street is that distributor.

My advise: buy pumps from Jebao at your own risk. If they work for you, it's a good deal. If you get a bad pump, you can consider it a supply of spare parts and buy another one or just accept the loss. Buying Jebao products is like gambling in Vegas, you put down your money and you take your chances. It's a fairly good product and an awful company as best as I can tell. Maybe that's why Tunze and Eco Tech charge so much... customer service. I'd rather pay $149 for a pump that had power/flow control and customer service than gamble on an $85 pump that has no company behind it. Jebao gives Chinese manufacturers a bad reputation. If anybody EVER gets a quality reply from Jebao, PLEASE share it here!
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SimonSKL said:
+1. Haven't seen one single documented fact or reference to any related or published article to support such claim.
Click to expand...

Yeah but all of this is a silly argument, when the alternative is cheaper - no variable power supply, and a $3 potentiometer between the VA out on the controller and the VA in on the pump (and the third leg connected to the pump ground). It's cheaper and there's no risk as it uses the pump's own motor controller to vary the speed, though it may take a few minutes to install. I just can't figure out why Jebao didn't do this in the original design...
 
Sacohen, no,no..I was not trying to bust anyone's chops or anything. I just remembered someone said that and wanted to be clear is all.

tomservo, my experience with a pot (trimmer) used in that fashion cut off the top end of the pump. To the best of my knowledge, I am the only one on this thread who actaully did this.

Adding three more parts fixed it. Now I can go from wide open to crawl in any mode. And no kidding, it's hard to fathom why Jeabo did not replace the low setting with the ability to adjust speed on all modes.
 
Adding three more parts fixed it. Now I can go from wide open to crawl in any mode. And no kidding, it's hard to fathom why Jeabo did not replace the low setting with the ability to adjust speed on all modes.
Click to expand...

Exactly what I've been waiting to hear.... how exactly did you do it?
 
salty joe said:
Sacohen, no,no..I was not trying to bust anyone's chops or anything. I just remembered someone said that and wanted to be clear is all.
Click to expand...

No you didn't bust my chops. I made a mistake and put the wrong company in the post. Fish-Street.com is selling the variable power supplies.

These adjust the voltage going into the controller and not the signal going out to the pump.
 
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