Aquacontroller III Pro vs. ProfiLux II Pro
- Thread starter Los
- Start date
AQD_ottawa
New member
Welcome to the profiLux club we are here to help you every step of the way
jtarmitage
Active member
Can I run the control unit at the tank and use some kind of extension to the sump area that is 40-50ft away where the probes and level sensors will be?
Not sure how to set things up yet, but the tank will be in the house, while the sump and all the other associated items will be in the garage.
Not sure how to set things up yet, but the tank will be in the house, while the sump and all the other associated items will be in the garage.
AQD_ottawa
New member
You can run the control lines for the power bars that length but as with any controller to run sensors that distance would cause interference.
My thoughts would be to have the controller in the sump room and have it networked back to your pc for full control
My thoughts would be to have the controller in the sump room and have it networked back to your pc for full control
jtarmitage
Active member
Didn't think of that. Thanks.
Will the remote viewing panel work at that distance? Just wondering if I can see the details at the tank without the computer around.
Will the remote viewing panel work at that distance? Just wondering if I can see the details at the tank without the computer around.
AQD_ottawa
New member
You would need a very long rs232 cable but there is no reason why not
jtarmitage
Active member
Man, I love the fast responses!
I think we have a winner.
Thanks.
I think we have a winner.Thanks.
AQD_ottawa
New member
As my signature says "support is never far away"
Cant guarrantee always this fast but i try my best to answer most within 2 hours unless sleeping of course
Cant guarrantee always this fast but i try my best to answer most within 2 hours unless sleeping of course
AQD_ottawa
New member
Yep thankfully (and i truly mean that) I am not the only line of support, we have quite a dedicated experienced user base on here all willing to help out.
Talking of sleep, cya all in the morning!
Talking of sleep, cya all in the morning!
jtarmitage
Active member
Well, the customer service here, and from what I have seen from others really sealed the deal. Ordered this afternoon and got a reply from Todd within an hour saying it would be shipping out in the morning!
It's a tough pill to swallow when looking at the cost, but I think I'll be happiest in the end with this controller.
It's a tough pill to swallow when looking at the cost, but I think I'll be happiest in the end with this controller.
ConcreteReefer
In Memoriam
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12445574#post12445574 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jtarmitage
Well, the customer service here, and from what I have seen from others really sealed the deal. Ordered this afternoon and got a reply from Todd within an hour saying it would be shipping out in the morning!
It's a tough pill to swallow when looking at the cost, but I think I'll be happiest in the end with this controller.
Well, I went with a Profilux.. reasons- The retail price difference is minimal, customer service seems good (way above average), and the product looks awesome!
I heard they had some power supply issues though..
AQD_ottawa
New member
From who?!
Never ever had a single power supply issue. I would love to know where that info came from????
let me guess a retailer who no longer is supplied ProfiLux?
For assurance please scroll through this huge forum and you will not find a single post to anything similar.
Hope that reasures you. But please pm me where this came from. I am quite protective and do take issue with any info that has been povided to a client that is unfounded negative or miss leading.
Never ever had a single power supply issue. I would love to know where that info came from????
let me guess a retailer who no longer is supplied ProfiLux?
For assurance please scroll through this huge forum and you will not find a single post to anything similar.
Hope that reasures you. But please pm me where this came from. I am quite protective and do take issue with any info that has been povided to a client that is unfounded negative or miss leading.
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jtarmitage, like you, it is the customer service, plus the functions on the controller that sold me. I am setting up a system with remote sump/fuge. The display will consist of three side by side tanks (180g with 2 54g corner bookend units) plus a 90g remote tank. Based on everything I have read, and researching all the other controllers, the Elite is the one I wanted. It will do what I want, plus more I am sure I have not thought of. I got it last weekend. Now I just have to finish setting up my Reef system so I can put this puppy to work.
ConcreteReefer
In Memoriam
I discussed this with Todd, did you talk with him?
I didn't mean the actual "power supply", I should have worded it a little better-
I meant the actual powerbar had issues with providing enough juice to MH's, Chillers, & such.
To prevent any issues I'm going to run my 250w Icecap MH on a regular timer- This will free up one of the outlets as well.
ConcreteReefer
In Memoriam
This is until I get a High Amp exp. socket...
Michael, You get my unit shipped yet! Hurry up!!!
I cant wait!!!
Michael, You get my unit shipped yet! Hurry up!!!
I cant wait!!!
kidney514
Premium Member
Basically in the early export to the americas their powerbar had a 15 amp load capacity and a stricking (or surge) capacity of something similar. A MH can have a starting surge that would exceed (maybe up to 60amp) to the stricking capacity of the PB and with that may or can cause your relay to weld shut. The powerbar you have received has the same load maximum but instead has a 200 amp stricking capacity.
And they was alot of confusion about load capacity and stricking capacity that everything was getting mixed up.
So to recap
Load 15amp = continuous voltage going through the powerbar
Stricking 200 amp = A spike of current for a few milliseconds.
And the other confusion was about spreading the load, simply because a household breaker is 15 amp and most hight aqua will require more than that. So load spreading is mostly not too trip your household break and find out that you lost everything in your tanks.
Hope that clears it.
And they was alot of confusion about load capacity and stricking capacity that everything was getting mixed up.
So to recap
Load 15amp = continuous voltage going through the powerbar
Stricking 200 amp = A spike of current for a few milliseconds.
And the other confusion was about spreading the load, simply because a household breaker is 15 amp and most hight aqua will require more than that. So load spreading is mostly not too trip your household break and find out that you lost everything in your tanks.
Hope that clears it.
AQD_ottawa
New member
Ok I will clear this baby up once and for all to reasure any new Profilux owner.
Very high loads associated with ballasts specifically striking loads that can strike at over 40 amps, in time can put gradual wear on a power bars switchable relay contacts. This was in the main due to relays only being rated to the standard house hold supply limited current of 20 amps
In time in North America controller manufacturers NOT just Profilux started to get relay sticking issues. I say again NOT just GHL.
So GHL being the extremely proactive company that it is, to help out existing users with "series 1" power bars brought out the HIGH AMP power bar. this had two great advantages, it took away the high striking load of the these ballasts and put them on a seperate circuit and onto a devise with 200amp rated relays, it also enabled the user to spread the loading better, as any power bar no matter who makes it should not have more than 15 amp current draw on one ring main outlet.
So that provided a cure for people who wanted to use high load devises specifically with high strike rates.
Then GHL went one better, they launched the series 2 power bar, this has no fuses in it and also had high in rush protected relays in every socket, rated at 200amp total current load.
Ok so now you have a power bar that can take huge in rush currents with no chance of sticking relays. But as I have spent many hours stressing on here , this does not take away the fact that the power bar (and this applies to ANY power bar no matter who makes it) should not have more than a 13amp total load applied to it in sum, why 13 amp? - never run an engine on full revs expecting harmony for long! In other words nothing is designed to be run at maximum rating constantly.
So where does that leave the HIGH AMP extension now? Simple terms, it provides the user with a series 1 or series 2 power bar the option to extend the loading of their 6 way or 4 way power bar, this enabling more devises to be attached the main power bar.
Why was this an industry wide issue - Well it is but only in North America, the reason being is that as we all know we are stuck with a very low AC voltage range of 110V which does not carry current (amps) very well. So you see it has nothing to do with GHL but the voltage that is made available, and that is why it is an industry wide issue. It is then up to the manufatcurer to offer a satisfactory solution which GHL did very quickly providing various secure methods of application
But as a final note, I commend GHL so highly for being amazingly proactive in finding a rapid solution to an industry wide issue, and providing the user a variety of different options to make the use of sensitive power bars without restriction or fear of long term damage.
I have heard more than once stories of this old info being touted as a negative towards ProfiLux forgetting to tell the person that profilux was one of the few companies to act on this development and provide the user with an advanced solution to high power devises.
I do hope this now puts this to rest.
Very high loads associated with ballasts specifically striking loads that can strike at over 40 amps, in time can put gradual wear on a power bars switchable relay contacts. This was in the main due to relays only being rated to the standard house hold supply limited current of 20 amps
In time in North America controller manufacturers NOT just Profilux started to get relay sticking issues. I say again NOT just GHL.
So GHL being the extremely proactive company that it is, to help out existing users with "series 1" power bars brought out the HIGH AMP power bar. this had two great advantages, it took away the high striking load of the these ballasts and put them on a seperate circuit and onto a devise with 200amp rated relays, it also enabled the user to spread the loading better, as any power bar no matter who makes it should not have more than 15 amp current draw on one ring main outlet.
So that provided a cure for people who wanted to use high load devises specifically with high strike rates.
Then GHL went one better, they launched the series 2 power bar, this has no fuses in it and also had high in rush protected relays in every socket, rated at 200amp total current load.
Ok so now you have a power bar that can take huge in rush currents with no chance of sticking relays. But as I have spent many hours stressing on here , this does not take away the fact that the power bar (and this applies to ANY power bar no matter who makes it) should not have more than a 13amp total load applied to it in sum, why 13 amp? - never run an engine on full revs expecting harmony for long! In other words nothing is designed to be run at maximum rating constantly.
So where does that leave the HIGH AMP extension now? Simple terms, it provides the user with a series 1 or series 2 power bar the option to extend the loading of their 6 way or 4 way power bar, this enabling more devises to be attached the main power bar.
Why was this an industry wide issue - Well it is but only in North America, the reason being is that as we all know we are stuck with a very low AC voltage range of 110V which does not carry current (amps) very well. So you see it has nothing to do with GHL but the voltage that is made available, and that is why it is an industry wide issue. It is then up to the manufatcurer to offer a satisfactory solution which GHL did very quickly providing various secure methods of application
But as a final note, I commend GHL so highly for being amazingly proactive in finding a rapid solution to an industry wide issue, and providing the user a variety of different options to make the use of sensitive power bars without restriction or fear of long term damage.
I have heard more than once stories of this old info being touted as a negative towards ProfiLux forgetting to tell the person that profilux was one of the few companies to act on this development and provide the user with an advanced solution to high power devises.
I do hope this now puts this to rest.
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ConcreteReefer
In Memoriam
I'll just get a high amp when needed. You might want to sticky the explanation so you don't have to do this every few months..
Ken250
Premium Member
Michael,
Thanks for the explanation. How can one tell if you have a series 1 or 2 powerbar? Are all 6-way digital power bars without fuses series 2?
I understand that one shouldn't have more than 13amps on a powerbar, but I don't want to wear-out my power bars with my MH lights (rather than purchase a high-amp power bar, I have bought several 6-way digital power bars to spread the load... and I don't want to wear-out any of them just because the MH lights have a high striking load).
Thanks,
Ken
Thanks for the explanation. How can one tell if you have a series 1 or 2 powerbar? Are all 6-way digital power bars without fuses series 2?
I understand that one shouldn't have more than 13amps on a powerbar, but I don't want to wear-out my power bars with my MH lights (rather than purchase a high-amp power bar, I have bought several 6-way digital power bars to spread the load... and I don't want to wear-out any of them just because the MH lights have a high striking load).
Thanks,
Ken
